What have you done to your HMMWV today/lately

[SmartDrug]

The key switch I ordered arrived today- fast shipping too.

I got this switch and this mounting plate. I'll interrupt the neutral cutout line to prevent the vehicle from starting.

They makes two key switches like this, one where the key remains in the lock when switched on, and one that allows the key to removed in either position. I chose the latter.

View attachment 870622

Take pics of the process, if you would. I'm going to tackle this next week!

 

[Mullaney]

The key switch I ordered arrived today- fast shipping too.

I got this switch and this mounting plate. I'll interrupt the neutral cutout line to prevent the vehicle from starting.

They makes two key switches like this, one where the key remains in the lock when switched on, and one that allows the key to removed in either position. I chose the latter.

View attachment 870622

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Thinking out loud...

Have you looked with a meter to see what amperage you might be passing through that switch - BEFORE you cut a wire and install this switch? There have been quite a few problems related to "non-factory" start buttons and switches on MV's in general...

Definitely not trying to bust your bubble, just trying to head off future problems...

 

[Mainsail]

Take pics of the process, if you would. I'm going to tackle this next week!

I still need to paint them before installing, which will require some nice weather.

.
Thinking out loud...

Have you looked with a meter to see what amperage you might be passing through that switch - BEFORE you cut a wire and install this switch? There have been quite a few problems related to "non-factory" start buttons and switches on MV's in general...

Definitely not trying to bust your bubble, just trying to head off future problems...

I will be checking (currently raining) but I'm pretty sure it's a ground path, not carrying any current. In other words, the shifter in P or N provide a ground path to allow the starter relay to close.

EDIT to add: I won't be cutting any wires

 

[Mogman]

It is carrying the starter solenoid current, it does not go to ground it carries the signal from the run start switch to the solenoid (24V)
Hopefully someone will chime in here that has measured or know the specs for the current is.
Not saying your switch would not work but I would suspect the 5A rating is pushing it.
Please download the TMs and study the schematics.

 

[Mogman]

Or put the switch in the run/stop signal to the IP, MUCH less current

 

[Mainsail]

Please download the TMs and study the schematics.

I've downloaded everything I can find- no schematics. Do you have a link?

 

[Mogman]

Got this as the first hit under "HMMWV schematic" on Google
4 pages but the wire numbers are pretty clear, print them and lay them together.
Or try one of the many others, this part of the HMMWV is pretty much the same for all but maybe the REV

https://www.flashoffroad.com/hmmwv/electrical/hmmwvSchematics/M997schematic.pdf

 

[Mainsail]

Got this as the first hit under "HMMWV schematic" on Google
4 pages but the wire numbers are pretty clear, print them and lay them together.
Or try one of the many others, this part of the HMMWV is pretty much the same for all but maybe the REV

https://www.flashoffroad.com/hmmwv/electrical/hmmwvSchematics/M997schematic.pdf

I was there, poured over that diagram for over an hour now, don't see the neutral switch or wire 14 anywhere in that.

 

[Milcommoguy]

I was there, poured over that diagram for over an hour now, don't see the neutral switch or wire 14 anywhere in that.

That free print is incomplete missing the last page. Neutral safety switch is in series with the "START" position. Stock military switch at "RUN" is rated at 20 Amp, 30 volts. Start position the same with 70 Amps inductive load.

IMO... and it's free, I would be VERY concern as to the contact ratings and long term use in THIS application for these simple switches (automotive application general replacement 12 VOLT) This Is the reason careful consideration to this "looks like a good idea" and "slap one on" security fixes that will come back and BITE Mr. HumV hard. It is WELL documented throughout the hobby.

Complete and total failure of contacts to make /break...OR welded together unable to shut off circuits IE: engine or worst yet a $700 plus dollar starter.

At Camoteksystems we are in the final design stage to eliminate this ongoing issue, providing a long term and ratings solution for the hobbyist.

Not all switches, switch alike. CAMO CAMOTEKSYSTEMS.com

Here's the data that supports the switch.

 

[AAVP7]

I finally got the original A/C on my body-off restored M997 ambulance running.

When I got the ambulance top, the freon lines were open, and insects had nested in them. Also, the engine-mounted compressor, the hoses and part of the wiring were missing. A very BIG Thank You to fellow Steelsoldier Harleyrdr71 for providing me with an original compressor, and some other parts.

I disassembled the whole A/C system, flushed it thorougly, changed the 35 years old seals on the compressor, and swapped all O-rings for a changeover to R134 (Freon = R12 is very much VERBOTEN overhere for years). The A/C oil was changed to PAG oil compatible with R134.

A few days ago I took the M997 for a first, nicely air-conditioned ride:

The Humvee rightaway started to mark its territory with some condensate water:

Here´s an engine room view with the extra V-belt for the compressor:

Restoring the 35+ years old A/C to running condition was an interesting learning experience for me. In my business, I´m daily working with A/C systems, but when a system is broken, we usually just trash them. Being forced to revive an historic A/C system with all-original parts was something new and exciting.

 

[Mogman]

I was there, poured over that diagram for over an hour now, don't see the neutral switch or wire 14 anywhere in that.

Sorry that one was not complete, actually I have never found a decent schematic, they are all crap, try this one.
Far right side

 

[Mullaney]

I finally got the original A/C on my body-off restored M997 ambulance running.

When I got the ambulance top, the freon lines were open, and insects had nested in them. Also, the engine-mounted compressor, the hoses and part of the wiring were missing. A very BIG Thank You to fellow Steelsoldier Harleyrdr71 for providing me with an original compressor, and some other parts.

I disassembled the whole A/C system, flushed it thorougly, changed the 35 years old seals on the compressor, and swapped all O-rings for a changeover to R134 (Freon = R12 is very much VERBOTEN overhere for years). The A/C oil was changed to PAG oil compatible with R134.

A few days ago I took the M997 for a first, nicely air-conditioned ride:

The Humvee rightaway started to mark its territory with some condensate water:

Here´s an engine room view with the extra V-belt for the compressor:

Restoring the 35+ years old A/C to running condition was an interesting learning experience for me. In my business, I´m daily working with A/C systems, but when a system is broken, we usually just trash them. Being forced to revive an historic A/C system with all-original parts was something new and exciting.

.
Very NICE looking ambulance AAVP7 !
You should enter it in the next MV of the Month Contest. The next one starts on July 1st.

Having AC is a plus for sure. Funny how it works. People who work on home cooling are different from vehicle cooling for sure. I mean the concept is the same, but it definitely takes different tools. Glad you could recover what you had and that another SS member could help you locate the missing parts.

 

[Mainsail]

Sorry that one was not complete, actually I have never found a decent schematic, they are all crap, try this one.
Far right side

Excellent!

So yes, I see wire 14 comes off the Start leg, so if that's 70 amps there's no way the key switch I have will work. Another option I guess would be a latching relay, but I don't find one that can handle that much current.

I like the keyed battery cutoff, but I wouldn't want to mount that too far from the battery box (big wires) and it's a long reach from the driver's seat to the battery box. I still want one for when I won't be driving it for a longer period of time.

I considered a hidden toggle, but nothing in my meager collection of aircraft toggle switches seems to up to the task either.

 

[Mullaney]

Excellent!

So yes, I see wire 14 comes off the Start leg, so if that's 70 amps there's no way the key switch I have will work. Another option I guess would be a latching relay, but I don't find one that can handle that much current.

I like the keyed battery cutoff, but I wouldn't want to mount that too far from the battery box (big wires) and it's a long reach from the driver's seat to the battery box. I still want one for when I won't be driving it for a longer period of time.

I considered a hidden toggle, but nothing in my meager collection of aircraft toggle switches seems to up to the task either.

View attachment 870686

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If you go direct to the battery cables - try searching "24v battery disconnect" - and then possibly mount in a somewhat hidden location.

 

[Mattguy]

New 2 man soft top from Mac motors to replace deteriorated one on my m1151. Saving up for 4 man hardtop conversion.

 

[Mullaney]

New 2 man soft top from Mac motors to replace deteriorated one on my m1151. Saving up for 4 man hardtop conversion.

,
Well, they aren't twins but they sure are nice looking!

 

[Mattguy]

,
Well, they aren't twins but they sure are nice looking!

Thank you! I think two humvees is the limit for now. I have a m1028 coming next week and need to get ready for that one. At least the camo blends in good so I can hide them in my back yard.

 

[MarkM]

Excellent!

So yes, I see wire 14 comes off the Start leg, so if that's 70 amps there's no way the key switch I have will work. Another option I guess would be a latching relay, but I don't find one that can handle that much current.

I like the keyed battery cutoff, but I wouldn't want to mount that too far from the battery box (big wires) and it's a long reach from the driver's seat to the battery box. I still want one for when I won't be driving it for a longer period of time.

I considered a hidden toggle, but nothing in my meager collection of aircraft toggle switches seems to up to the task either.

View attachment 870686

You have some very nice toggles there.

Mark

 

[Gcelevator]

Installed today a keyed kill switch connected to the IP selenoid. Painted it green to match the truck. Key is removable either in the ON or OFF possition.

Removed the rim from my good tire (rim was wiggling) it was so bad that some studs were spinning on the rim. Mounted the new to me tire on a almost new rim and today was able to go for a comfortable ride with no jumping (tested at different speeds)

Installed a glove box for documents (joke)

 

[Mainsail]

Instead of wondering what kind of amperage is running down Wire 14 I decided to find out. I talked to a techno-wienie I know (Technowienie) and he was skeptical about the 14ga wire carrying 70 amps. Also, whatever switch I use, even if the contacts weld themselves together it's not going to cause any drama, because the welded contacts would then be doing what the neutral switch is already doing in Park or Drive.

So here's what I got, 5.25 amps max when starting. Repeated it five times, same result.

Next up was getting the piece of ducting replaced. I really don't know what this does, since even with the fan blowing I didn't feel any air blowing out (or in) the open ducts under the hood. But it's supposed to be there so I ordered a new one. Now I know why they don't replace them, big drama and lots of grief getting that stuffed in there. That took most of the afternoon.

Replaced a missing zeus spring for the doghouse- I found the old one laying on the engine when I got the truck home. Drilled out the rivets and riveted in a new spring.

Last I got the shelf roughed in. I want it to be tool-less but I didn't feel like running out for hardware so I used what I had in the vast stores of collected crap.

So far, this is the collection of stuff I've found inside the truck. The fire extinguisher pin makes me a little nervous...