avlon01
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Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
What have you done to your HMMWV today/lately
- Thread starter Warthog
- Start date
79f250guy
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They're ridged industries A-Series LED lights
Stonewall
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- Peoria, IL
I looked them up... they look great. not cheap though.
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- Quantico VA
Spent 4 hours yesterday afternoon helping TheCaptain tear off his water pump. Definitely a two man job. My advice is get two OTHER men to do it if you have one needing replacement.
Getting the fan off was the hardest part, besides having to break a lot of very rusty long-tight bolts and studs free. Dealing with the fan clutch and getting the socket screws lined up and broken free certainly was interesting. Glad we had an air compressor to declutch the fan to help w alignment of wrenches.
Working while standing on the frame, leaning over the engine and working with fingertips at times is not something that would ever rank as enjoyable. Glad to say we got the pump off and hopefully TC can finish the job in a day or two of stolen moments. I may postpone replacing my seeping steering pump until Spring. Good thing I wear cowboy boots, as I don't think I could bend over to tie shoes today!
How do other folks handle working on a engine that is tucked deep inside the frame like that? Simple jobs take hours, I never realized how spoiled I was to be able to lean over an engine and see nearly all of it, as standard road vehicles are (little import cars designed to be repaired by genetically engineered Pygmy workers notwithstanding).
Bulldogger
Getting the fan off was the hardest part, besides having to break a lot of very rusty long-tight bolts and studs free. Dealing with the fan clutch and getting the socket screws lined up and broken free certainly was interesting. Glad we had an air compressor to declutch the fan to help w alignment of wrenches.
Working while standing on the frame, leaning over the engine and working with fingertips at times is not something that would ever rank as enjoyable. Glad to say we got the pump off and hopefully TC can finish the job in a day or two of stolen moments. I may postpone replacing my seeping steering pump until Spring. Good thing I wear cowboy boots, as I don't think I could bend over to tie shoes today!
How do other folks handle working on a engine that is tucked deep inside the frame like that? Simple jobs take hours, I never realized how spoiled I was to be able to lean over an engine and see nearly all of it, as standard road vehicles are (little import cars designed to be repaired by genetically engineered Pygmy workers notwithstanding).
Bulldogger
123mack
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You take off the hood and splash shields, then engine access is easy.
Thecaptain
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- Nokesville, VA
Thanks Bulldogger. It was definitely a two man job! I'm hoping to get back out today to see if I can make some headway in getting things put back together.
I'll keep you posted.
I'll keep you posted.
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You guys are doing it the hard way....I have never replaced a pump that way, and I have done more then I can count.
just remove the hood, splash shields and radiator stack...the radiator stack will come out as a complete unit.
this is also a good time to replace those old hard and crusty hoses....once you do it my way, you won't try it any other way....
just remove the hood, splash shields and radiator stack...the radiator stack will come out as a complete unit.
this is also a good time to replace those old hard and crusty hoses....once you do it my way, you won't try it any other way....
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Thanks for those tips gents.
The thought occurred to us, but taking all that off sounded like even more work. I suppose once those coolant hoses and fitting come off once, and get replaced as needed, it's easier the second time.
TheCaptain is replacing all engine coolant hoses already, as many were getting fairly old and showing signs of weakness.
At my house the big challenge is that I'm working alone, and that is one HEAVY hood assembly. I suppose I could rig a scaffold and block and tackle, but that is sure a lot of structure to work on one truck... And where the heck do I put it when not in use?...
First world problems!
Bulldogger
The thought occurred to us, but taking all that off sounded like even more work. I suppose once those coolant hoses and fitting come off once, and get replaced as needed, it's easier the second time.
TheCaptain is replacing all engine coolant hoses already, as many were getting fairly old and showing signs of weakness.
At my house the big challenge is that I'm working alone, and that is one HEAVY hood assembly. I suppose I could rig a scaffold and block and tackle, but that is sure a lot of structure to work on one truck... And where the heck do I put it when not in use?...
First world problems!
Bulldogger
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- Quantico VA
Oh, I did do a little work on my own HMMWV yesterday I should take credit for. Before heading out to TheCaptain's place, I pulled the heater blower motor and fan out and cleaned it all up. There was lots of debris, sand mostly, in the heater blower plenum, and the fan was a little out of balance. This all made terrible racket when using the fan. Knowing that winter is coming, I wanted it to be quieter and more effective. Now it works a treat.
Tip for those looking to repeat my work; you need to take off the upper hose that brings air to the defrosters and then you can see into the squirrel cage fan. From there turn the fan over until you find the set screw holding it on the flat of the motor shaft. Mine was a 1/8" allen screw. Then you can take out the screws that hold the motor assembly and part the fan from the motor. Otherwise the fan/motor assembly can't wiggle out, as it hits the side of the firewall/doghouse area. Reassembly is the reverse, put the fan inside and hold it through the hose opening while you get the motor shaft lined up, then tighten the set screw.
I need a new defroster air hose now, mine is torn in several spots, probably from things/people bumping into it. Advance Auto didn't have any, but I will look around.
Just glad to have heat without all that whining and noise from debris kicking around.
Has anyone put a cabin filter in one of these? I suppose it would get clogged pretty fast especially if off road a lot, but a piece of flat air cleaner foam like those sold for Edelbrock aftermarket air cleaners might work well enough.
Bulldogger
Tip for those looking to repeat my work; you need to take off the upper hose that brings air to the defrosters and then you can see into the squirrel cage fan. From there turn the fan over until you find the set screw holding it on the flat of the motor shaft. Mine was a 1/8" allen screw. Then you can take out the screws that hold the motor assembly and part the fan from the motor. Otherwise the fan/motor assembly can't wiggle out, as it hits the side of the firewall/doghouse area. Reassembly is the reverse, put the fan inside and hold it through the hose opening while you get the motor shaft lined up, then tighten the set screw.
I need a new defroster air hose now, mine is torn in several spots, probably from things/people bumping into it. Advance Auto didn't have any, but I will look around.
Just glad to have heat without all that whining and noise from debris kicking around.
Has anyone put a cabin filter in one of these? I suppose it would get clogged pretty fast especially if off road a lot, but a piece of flat air cleaner foam like those sold for Edelbrock aftermarket air cleaners might work well enough.
Bulldogger
Lawdog734
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I put the BFG Baja's on and installed my Lightforce Lights on the GMV this weekend.
I also installed my "center console" - a painted Coke crate with my modified ammo can.
I also installed my "center console" - a painted Coke crate with my modified ammo can.
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infidel got me
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I agree with RWH, it is a whole lot easier to remove hood and radiator stack. I cant imagine trying to attack a water pump any other way. Once you guys remove the stack you will see that it's waaaaay easier.
Also a little hint-- take on end of your hinge pins and run it up on a bench grinder. Take a little off the edge-- like you were sharpening a pencil. I found that the pins go in a lot easier this way.
Also a little hint-- take on end of your hinge pins and run it up on a bench grinder. Take a little off the edge-- like you were sharpening a pencil. I found that the pins go in a lot easier this way.
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- Quantico VA
Installed my homemade grounding harness last night. It seemed to positively affect the accuracy of my oil pressure gauge, at least in the amount of time I had to test drive. Time will tell.
Have to get the gumption up to replace the weeping steering pump next, and fix the transmission kick down functionality.
Bulldogger
Have to get the gumption up to replace the weeping steering pump next, and fix the transmission kick down functionality.
Bulldogger
orgnal
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- Denver, CO
Bulldogger, you comment on 'need to fix the transmission kick down next' caught my attention. What is happening and what are you doing to fix it? Yesterday, I noticed that the transmission wiring harnesses is hanging loose on my HMMWV. I don't know how it is affecting my HMMWV. I was unable to 'click it' back into place. Thanks.
McReddy
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orgnal, the trans doesn't drop down a gear when I floor the pedal or when hill climbing, etc. The kickdown switch "clicks", but I haven't had time to test it for continuity. I have verified the kick down solenoid is in place at the transmission and is connected to the other end of the wiring from the switch, but I haven't gotten farther than that. I suspect the solenoid is bad, but have to fully diagnose.
Since I can manually downshift, it isn't mission critical.
Bulldogger
Since I can manually downshift, it isn't mission critical.
Bulldogger
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- Conway, SC
Installed airlift bumper, pintle extension, mud flaps and rhino tire carrier. 
- 111
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- Conway, SC
Update. License plate bracket from those military guys, installed and occupied by brand new SC license plate. Road trip here I come. 
linhster
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- Delray Beach/FL
Added digital gauges. Still need to adjust/calibrate some of the gauges.