Another Ahab
Well-known member
- 18,007
- 4,579
- 113
- Location
- Alexandria, VA
It might be good not to ALWAYS believe what you hear the voices telling you...
-
Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
What have you done to your HMMWV today/lately
- Thread starter Warthog
- Start date
Chief B
Active member
- 169
- 64
- 28
- Location
- Milton, FL
Went topless... added a horn that works, had to rerun the wires to the overhead speaker because the person I had purchased it from had all the wiring simply wrapped around the bars and it looked like crap once the top was off. Added a ammo can that holds the horn button and a USB charger (still need to hook the charger up though) plus it gives me a place to carry my license, registration, and 9mm...
Attachments
Dock Rocker
Active member
- 980
- 72
- 28
- Location
- Jackson ms
Two steps forward one back.
Got the interior sprayed with lizard skin acoustic spray and thermal barrier. Much better so far.
Picked up a RAM mount console to stash all my 12v fuses and relays. Just test fitting it.
Then I took it for a spin and the brakes were spongy. Took a look under and my passenger rear is pouring brake fluid. I didn’t have enough left in me to start troubleshooting that malfunction.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Got the interior sprayed with lizard skin acoustic spray and thermal barrier. Much better so far.
Picked up a RAM mount console to stash all my 12v fuses and relays. Just test fitting it.
Then I took it for a spin and the brakes were spongy. Took a look under and my passenger rear is pouring brake fluid. I didn’t have enough left in me to start troubleshooting that malfunction.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Last edited:
twisted60
Well-known member
- 617
- 250
- 63
- Location
- Jupiter, Florida
ChiefB
Here is how I hooked my ammo box with USB, voltage and cig lighter spot. In the bottom of ammo box I put a 24-12volt transformer and fuse block, on top of these items I built a false bottom with 2 small "eye" hooks in opposite corners to lift false bottom for access to electronics. On top of false bottom I keep my paperwork, a few small tools and spare bulbs, my 9mm is on my hip. Next ammo can/usb set up I plan to go with 6 place holders (2 x 2 usb, 1 cig lighter, 1 volt gauge, 1 power switch and 1 extra just in case. On top of ammo can is a blue tooth speaker, it is loud enough to hear with driving.
Hope this gives you more ideas.
Another Ahab
Well-known member
- 18,007
- 4,579
- 113
- Location
- Alexandria, VA
That's clean, sharp.
Are there hold-downs on the box (looks like maybe one on the end there, but not sure I'm seeing that right), or does it just sit in-place by its weight?
Chief B
Active member
- 169
- 64
- 28
- Location
- Milton, FL
Thanks... I originally was going to do something like that, but found that the person I purchased from has already put in a converter and a 12v fuse box already so I’m going to simply tap into that fuse box. Only thing running from it now is the speaker and backup camera.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
twisted60
Well-known member
- 617
- 250
- 63
- Location
- Jupiter, Florida
Hold downs are internal, I just used some #10 bolts, drilled thru the plywood and put washers and nuts under plywood. Plywood comes out easy, just mark where you plan to put ammo can and drill away. 24v comes hot off batteries to master pwr switch then to fuse block and then to USB ect... I pwr my cel phone charger, dash cam, GPS, blue tooth speaker, CB radio and the volt meter shows output of transformer.
Chief B
Active member
- 169
- 64
- 28
- Location
- Milton, FL
I basically did the same minus the plywood. Just set it on the tray, marked the ammo box where wholes already were on tray drilled ammo box and bolted it on.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Weller
Member
- 220
- 8
- 18
- Location
- Kern County, CA
Discovered and cleaned a rats nest out of fan box today.
Rat jumped out when I opened the hood.
Now I'm trouble shooting a no start issue, chewed wire possible but nothing yet seen.
Cranks but no start or even smoke.
Batteries fresh
Glow plugs 3 months old
Ground harness installed
Click and wait light comes on (as usual)
Click heard in control box when turning off (as usual)
Pulled fuel filter line, ran to clear bottle, fuel pumps as usual while cranking engine.
Rat jumped out when I opened the hood.
Now I'm trouble shooting a no start issue, chewed wire possible but nothing yet seen.
Cranks but no start or even smoke.
Batteries fresh
Glow plugs 3 months old
Ground harness installed
Click and wait light comes on (as usual)
Click heard in control box when turning off (as usual)
Pulled fuel filter line, ran to clear bottle, fuel pumps as usual while cranking engine.
McSpeed
Well-known member
- 333
- 293
- 63
- Location
- Palmer, AK
Towed my boat to the lake for the first time. 
Weller
Member
- 220
- 8
- 18
- Location
- Kern County, CA
That looks more fun than cleaning up rats nests. 
McSpeed
Well-known member
- 333
- 293
- 63
- Location
- Palmer, AK
yes it is. And been there done that. Dang rodent pee also rotted out the heater core.That looks more fun than cleaning up rats nests.
Ive bleached and replaced all the soft duct hose. I’ve painted the inside of the blower housing and it still wreaks of mouse nest when I turn on the blower. I hope you have better luck than I.
Another Ahab
Well-known member
- 18,007
- 4,579
- 113
- Location
- Alexandria, VA
That looks more fun than cleaning up rats nests.
Frost0071
Member
- 47
- 8
- 8
- Location
- Indianapolis/Indiana
Installed the final version of my tach mount
And I also started with rewiring of the battery box and added some Kissling relays which I can turn on with a key so my truck is powerless when it stays around. I have now als two master switches where I can completely shut off the truck. I installed also a 3rd battery under the rear seats for the 12V stuff.
And I also started with rewiring of the battery box and added some Kissling relays which I can turn on with a key so my truck is powerless when it stays around. I have now als two master switches where I can completely shut off the truck. I installed also a 3rd battery under the rear seats for the 12V stuff.
Weller
Member
- 220
- 8
- 18
- Location
- Kern County, CA
Tach mount looks great. Nice work in the space of the battery box. Did you step down voltage to the rear seat 12v, connect it to one battery, or other?
- 6,088
- 4,493
- 113
I removed and painted the light buckets, replaced a bunch of hardware with stainless, scritched and repainted access doors, grilleguard, hood hold downs, and replaced the rear hood seal and related hardware.
A lot more work than I thought it was going to be.
Before, and then several after pics...
A lot more work than I thought it was going to be.
Before, and then several after pics...
Last edited:
Frost0071
Member
- 47
- 8
- 8
- Location
- Indianapolis/Indiana
I upgraded to a 200A dual voltage alternator for the 12V system and the outlet from that is running directly to my 3rd battery.
Wire Fox
Well-known member
- 1,252
- 161
- 63
- Location
- Indianapolis, Indiana
Just be careful with those stainless steel fasteners. The risk of galvanic corrosion between stainless and aluminum is elevated. So is stainless and galvanized (zinc-coated) steel. Feel free to read about that kind of thing here: http://www.ssina.com/corrosion/galvanic.html Stainless is generally only a good idea when you can completely isolate it from any other metals, as it's usually quite dissimilar to other metals and is likely to have a galvanic reaction.
- 6,088
- 4,493
- 113
Agreed. Steel and aluminum don't do well in direct contact. Everything I was bolting on was bolting to the fiberglass hood.
Well worth a mention that steel and aluminum should be insulated from each other.
Edit to add - now that i think about it I have stainless steel nuts in contact with the painted steel retention strips for the rear hood seal. I suspect the paint (CARC + rattlecan) is sufficient separation.
Last edited: