What have you done to your HMMWV today/lately

[Mogman]

I finished the basic install of the Malaysian 12K rear winch, I installed the rear winch first and plan on installing a hydraulic front winch (if I can find the mount) I always install a rear winch, even if I do not plan on installing a front winch, If you think about it it makes total sense, there are times when a front winch can only pull you farther into whatever you were stupid enough to drive off into in the first place!!..

This winch came with 4ga "special winch cable" of course it all had to be custom wired to move the relay pack under the rear passenger seat so I used 2ga THWN because I had it and copper is not cheap! this limited my options on routing the wire because that stuff is about as flexible as an old Int. Scout frame, Make sure anytime you do something like this to "de-horn" the edges of things like that shock tower and body mount, that shock tower was a sharp as a knife!
I still have allot of "cleanup" to do, I did not have the correct wire clamps so they are on order and I still need to install the hand held remote plug in the rear and wire the momentary switch in the dash and insulate the main switch mounted in the rear passenger seat box.
There was already a hole in the back of the battery compartment so that choice was easy enough, really do like using asphalt wire loom.
I installed a "battery" switch for several reasons one of which is it just not need to be a parasitic drain on the system all the time when it will hopefully get little use.
BUT the main reason for the switch is because this winch comes with a wireless remote and I don't want to be driving down the road someday and have a random signal tell the cheap winch receiver,, "let's just see if this can suck the bumper in"
The extra switch in the floor is going to be the main battery switch facing the rear passengers feet, SUPPOSED to be rated at 2500A for 10sec and 250A continuous.

EDIT the winch came from Fleabay, it is a 24V unit and seems to have good quality, cost $560.00 and shipping took only about 4 days!!!

 

[NormB]

Finally got around to starting a project I’d put off for a year - almost two - refinishing a set of x-doors.

Fronts had been painted desert sand/tan fr some reason, I have a set of light steel armor plate I’m still not 100% decided on attaching. Got some glass, miscellaneous screws/fittings ordered, got inside of one front door painted today along with the window frame.

Rear doors are in better shape, already painted in BDU camo to match the truck, just need some cleaning and new seals (window and sides, I have the complete set) and locking door handles. I’ll be painting the fronts in the same pattern.

Amazing what I can get done when the arthritis gives me a break...

 

[Carrera911]

coolant has a higher boiling point then water...so,less coolant is NOT better, that’s why a 50/50 is a good starting point.

Not trying to argue with you but this is just from my own research. The pressure of the cooling system raises the boiling point by itself above 240* which hopefully my truck will never see anyway. With straight water and 12psi (believe the rad cap is 16 psi) the boiling point is 242*. At 33% coolant and 12psi it is 253*. Lots of track guys run straight water in their cars and some tracks require it. I'm sure its common for them to see temps at least as high as these trucks.

At the end of the day it probably doesn't make a difference what ratio you use as long as it's less than ~65% antifreeze. I ran straight tap water in mine for a little while and had no issues but the highest temp I saw was 225*.

 

[Action]

Not trying to argue with you but this is just from my own research. The pressure of the cooling system raises the boiling point by itself above 240* which hopefully my truck will never see anyway. With straight water and 12psi (believe the rad cap is 16 psi) the boiling point is 242*. At 33% coolant and 12psi it is 253*. Lots of track guys run straight water in their cars and some tracks require it. I'm sure its common for them to see temps at least as high as these trucks.

At the end of the day it probably doesn't make a difference what ratio you use as long as it's less than ~65% antifreeze. I ran straight tap water in mine for a little while and had no issues but the highest temp I saw was 225*.

View attachment 781226
View attachment 781227
View attachment 781225

I cant help but respond....You just confirmed what RWH stated. Coolant has a higher boiling point. I thought some tracks require only water in the vehicles so that they don't spray coolant all over the track when they have a leak. But water will freeze, hence using anti-freeze.

 

[Carrera911]

I cant help but respond....You just confirmed what RWH stated. Coolant has a higher boiling point. I thought some tracks require only water in the vehicles so that they don't spray coolant all over the track when they have a leak. But water will freeze, hence using anti-freeze.

I’m aware that antifreeze raises the boiling point. I wasn’t arguing that it didn’t. But water alone under pressure in the radiator raises the boiling point enough by itself. I think letting the coolant get over 240* alone would cause bigger issues than a little coolant loss. I would never let my truck get to 252*, which is the boiling point of straight water at 16psi which is the cap pressure rating.

Yes most track guys use water because it’s required. The point there was I’m sure those highly tuned motors running wide open are under more stress and higher temps more often than a gutless humvee lumbering around.

The difference between 30% and 50% is only about 5-6 degrees at any pressure regardless. Not really something worth debating, I was just bringing up the pressure aspect for those who don’t know.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[TOBASH]

If you run straight water and you live where temperatures dipped below 32°F, your engine will become one very expensive paperweight. I strongly suggest almost everyone in North America use engine radiator fluid containing Ethelyne glycol or something similar. My humble advice. Your mileage may vary.

T

 

[sue]

I think the quote was “water cools better” which is true.
Not about the boiling point, but it is the best thermal media.
And don’t even start talking about the ev**s waterless
coolant. Fantastic P.R, but to run it in a modern powerplant
start looking for your checkbook when you rebuild or repair.

 

[TOBASH]

I think the quote was “water cools better” which is true.

Sorry, but I respectfully disagree.

Water causes rust, and water alone does not have the temp range of water with ethylene glycol. Modern engines (meaning sinc1920's) are designed with the wider range in mind. The higher boiling point with ethylene glycol is absolutely helpful in maintaining cool temps without vapor-locked coolant. The higher boiling point is protective, especially in cases of radiator cap partial failure. It also helps maintain lower pressures seen by the system, reducing leaks.

The rust pure water causes leads to particulate matter that clogs the radiator over time.

MHO, YMMV.

Best,

T

 

[DREDnot]

And while we are discussing the benefits of 50/50 coolant, It also lubricates the seals of the water pump. Besides the rust and sediment, you will kill the water pump in short order.

 

[Coug]

Sorry, but I respectfully disagree.

Water causes rust, and water alone does not have the temp range of water with ethylene glycol. Modern engines (meaning sinc1920's) are designed with the wider range in mind. The higher boiling point with ethylene glycol is absolutely helpful in maintaining cool temps without vapor-locked coolant. The higher boiling point is protective, especially in cases of radiator cap partial failure. It also helps maintain lower pressures seen by the system, reducing leaks.

The rust pure water causes leads to particulate matter that clogs the radiator over time.

MHO, YMMV.

Best,

T

I think it's just that water has a higher level of heat transfer than the ethylene glycol does.

I'm not going to claim it's better to use higher water content, just that the heat transfer properties are better. That's why we won't run straight ethylene glycol in engines.

But just because the heat transfer is better doesn't mean that it's a good idea to use straight water, for the reasons you listed.

 

[sue]

Yes and that’s why at Reno the on silver and
gold race’s the Merlin guys will run straight H2O
(distilled of course).

 

[sue]

Then dump 25-30 gals of water on
the ramp, then fill back
up with 30/70-50/50 you previously drained
and fly back home.

 

[papakb]

Keep in mind that diesels like to run their own coolants. They're specifically formulated to prevent micro-bubbles that cause cylinder problems.

 

[HUNvee]

Happy Halloween!

 

[Beaufort12]

Great pic, thx !

I did nothing, but I searched those bumper codes. I know there's a list in a thread, from which I can see where my Humvee is from, but I can't find it...

Any help?

 

[Another Ahab]

Hey, Beaufort12, you like relatively new here, "on the block":

- So, for record, Welcome!

From here in the Virginia commonwealth of the U.S.A.

 

[infidel got me]

coolant

Anti-freeze = northern

Coolant = southern

 

[beehumvee]

My way bridge plates installed....!!

 

[Beaufort12]

Hey, Beaufort12, you like relatively new here, "on the block":

- So, for record, Welcome!

From here in the Virginia commonwealth of the U.S.A.

Thanks, but not really. I'm here since 2017. I read a lot before I got my humvee last year.
Since then I have added many parts, but it is not finished yet

 

[Coug]

I got tired of the floor mat/insulation stuff falling down on the passenger side footwell, so put a couple of 1/2 inch bolts and washers left over from when they removed the armor through the [ad and the wheel well where there had been bolts before.
Then used a few more bolts to fill holes on the driver's side foot well to keep a little more water out when driving down the road.
They sure left a lot of holes when they removed the armor.