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What have you done to your HMMWV today/lately

GuntherRommel

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
264
528
93
Location
Bend, Oregon
It's just that I like listening to the engine and its really not the loud inside (soft top) I like to know what's going on with the drive train and engine and don't have any passengers that are new to the platform
 

jake20

Well-known member
431
839
93
Location
Illinois
I’m running a PA400ST intercom with 4 avcomm headsets. Works pretty great overall and runs on 9-33V. Working on a way to give the gunner seat its own intercom control with a push to talk.

I’ve hooked the radio output of the intercom to a cheap baofeng radio, so anyone in the truck can talk to anyone else in another truck with the same setup. Should be fun in convoy.
 

SmartDrug

Well-known member
203
293
63
Location
Saint Charles, IL
I’m running a PA400ST intercom with 4 avcomm headsets. Works pretty great overall and runs on 9-33V. Working on a way to give the gunner seat its own intercom control with a push to talk.

I’ve hooked the radio output of the intercom to a cheap baofeng radio, so anyone in the truck can talk to anyone else in another truck with the same setup. Should be fun in convoy.

I run the same setup. Aside from having to turn down the squelch when the doors are off, it works great and we can all communicate comfortably, even at speed.
 

MarkM

CODE BROWN...It's all going to sh~t !
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,029
1,828
113
Location
WOBURN. MA.
My Sigtronics intercom runs on a 9V battery or I can hook it up to run on 24v which is aircraft voltage. A 9v lythium lasts forever in truck with me using it here and there. Glad to see others have gone the aviation route.

Mark

s-l400 - 2023-05-25T211828.448.jpg

s-l400 - 2023-05-25T212110.179.jpg
 

belted_guns

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
70
169
33
Location
Prosper TX
Test fit the doors i bought from Austin @beltfed, great guy to buy from.
I have to remove all the hardware and brackets, remake or buy some bracket parts and work on the doors for a smoother finish and a coupme of cracks. I have to figure out the gap on the rear doors and C pillar. Other than that happy and excited with the new to me doors.
Nice. For me the rear door gap is caused by how the door is aligned with the hinges. If done correctly, the should not be a gap at the top. Well, no more of a gap than elsewhere. When I drilled my door hinges, I lacked that information. The door is a bit high and I have a slight gap at the top. But it is right under the rough so no big deal.
 

Mainsail

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,423
1,439
113
Location
Puget Sound, WA
Installed some tie-down provision in the bed of the truck. With the water-dam keeping water out, it also blocks the two tie-down rings. If I take the doors off I have no way to tie them down in the bed, and no way to tie anything else down either.

I've had this aircraft seat-track since the early 90s, so that didn't cost me anything. In fact, I installed four 6" pieces and it didn't cost me anything other than time.

Each 6" piece of track can hold three rings. I may add a couple more in the middle for smaller items. With the rings stowed, the track sits below the surface of the bed, so it won't be in the way.

TieDown05.jpg

TieDown02.jpg

TieDown04.jpg

TieDown03.jpg

TieDown07.jpg

The rear wall clips to this thing, which was in the way. The rear wall will clip in to the tie-down ring instead.

TieDown06.jpg

TieDown05a.jpg
 

jake20

Well-known member
431
839
93
Location
Illinois
Installed some tie-down provision in the bed of the truck. With the water-dam keeping water out, it also blocks the two tie-down rings. If I take the doors off I have no way to tie them down in the bed, and no way to tie anything else down either.

I've had this aircraft seat-track since the early 90s, so that didn't cost me anything. In fact, I installed four 6" pieces and it didn't cost me anything other than time.

Each 6" piece of track can hold three rings. I may add a couple more in the middle for smaller items. With the rings stowed, the track sits below the surface of the bed, so it won't be in the way.

View attachment 898166

View attachment 898167

View attachment 898168

View attachment 898169

View attachment 898173

The rear wall clips to this thing, which was in the way. The rear wall will clip in to the tie-down ring instead.

View attachment 898170

View attachment 898172
That’s pretty nifty, wonder if there’s something similar that can be bought as an adjustable retention system. I’ve been considering an 1152 build as I just sold my pickup 😋
 

Gcelevator

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
402
522
93
Location
Florida USA
Also, registered my new to me trailer and 1151A1. The truck was a bit of an issue as there is another 1958 car registered in another state with the same VIN and a trailer in FL as well.
 

rcamacho

Well-known member
765
818
93
Location
Bainbridge Island Wa
Removed gunner restraint plate for corrosion control. Stripped the rust off and painted with epoxy primer. Also took the opportunity to strip and paint the cargo shell hatch armor.

(5) 3/8” recessed head bolts had to be drilled out. Shanks and spacers were easily removed after the plate.

Amazing how badly the steel plate on aluminum junctions corrode. Really wish AMG did more to prevent galvanic corrosion.







Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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OBX

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
116
378
63
Location
Moyock, NC
Conversion of 1152A1 to 4 door still in progress. Rear doors fitted with continuous hinges today. Doors were fabricated by Joe at TwistedMetalworks.
Also installed Jeremy Johnson running board/rail sliders. Jeremy is certainly a master of metal fabrication.

ACBFF45D-6BE1-4509-831C-287FB57E8A08.jpeg4F1A4551-0600-456B-ADE9-1C7E8F84B0B2.jpegD24ED24A-EFCE-4427-A0BA-6A437C60436A.jpegF00C091B-04D1-4CA4-8E72-2842C71D319B.pngA2BC6607-9981-4DA6-876F-A7F4BEFBE84A.png87F6B5B0-7D61-4135-8D33-10A4505EE503.png
 
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