What is it?

[Celticlady]

Black rubber chunk. Has fresh break on one side. Has a radius( guessing about 12".) Its not tire. Has a 90 degree corner to the radius. The radius side has some old grease and road gunk.

Parked the truck 4 days ago after driving into the creek to fill my water tank. Got in today. It wouldn't go when brakes released. Put it in rev no go. Put back in drive something popped. Then it would go. Brakes worked fine. Moved it to the shop to work on it. When done, I backed into its spot.

As iI was climbing down Found the rubber on the drive. It rained hard this morning. No evidence it was on a gravel drive in the rain.

 

[Third From Texas]

Parked the truck 4 days ago after driving into the creek to fill my water tank. Got in today. It wouldn't go when brakes released. Put it in rev no go. Put back in drive something popped. Then it would go. Brakes worked fine. Moved it to the shop to work on it. When done, I backed into its spot.

Was the truck parked on an incline? Could the brakes have gotten wet prior to sitting?

 

[Keith Knight]

Maybe your front body mounts.

 

[Third From Texas]

Maybe your front body mounts.

That was my thought, but then he said it appeared to have a 12 inch radius

 

[Celticlady]

Was the truck parked on an incline? Could the brakes have gotten wet prior to sitting?

The drive is about a 1% incline

i did drive in the creek. Which is 50 ft from the house. So ... yes the right side got wet and then I parked it.

I was thinking that the wet brakes stuck to the drums. It did appear the drivers side tires were trying to turn.

The chunk of rubber is concerning.

 

[Third From Texas]

1% grade won't lock the trans in park (but on my driveway it kicks in). Has to be in gear and park brake released (else it in a no go). I don't recall if my A0 had that same feature but my A1R does.

Yeah, all three trucks that I've owned had brakes that will strick a bit if wet and allowed to sit up.

That rubber is:

a) cab bushing (if found near cab)
b) swaybar bushing (if found by rear axel

There are no rubber bits on the truck that thick with a 12" radius.

 

[Celticlady]

1% grade won't lock the trans in park (but on my driveway it kicks in). Has to be in gear and park brake released (else it in a no go). I don't recall if my A0 had that same feature but my A1R does.

Yeah, all three trucks that I've owned had brakes that will strick a bit if wet and allowed to sit up.

That rubber is:

a) cab bushing (if found near cab)
b) swaybar bushing (if found by rear axel

There are no rubber bits on the truck that thick with a 12" radius.

Interesting bit on putting in gear. Never had any issue putting in gear. Braks on or off.

It was going in gear. ( rpm drop, it was trying to go as if you forgot to release brakes)

In a quick look I didn't see any suspension bits missing.
It was pretty muddy in drive. Didn't want to go mud diving under truck.

next time I have cab up will look for busted cab bushing. I have new airbags to install.

Had the craziest weather. my projects got put on hold.

 

[Third From Texas]

You can eyeball the upper and lower cab bushings by peeking around the bumper and the wheel well.

Sway bar bushings are easy to spot from behind the truck.

When the weather passes, that is....

 

[NDT]

Looks like pieces of rear sway bar bushings. A member here has new ones.

 

[Celticlady]

Looks like pieces of rear sway bar bushings. A member here has new ones.

ok thanks

 

[tennmogger]

Load of water = heavy = might be bump stop pieces. Those are maybe 5" diameter (guessing, it's raining here!).

 

[Celticlady]

Load of water = heavy = might be bump stop pieces. Those are maybe 5" diameter (guessing, it's raining here!).

Bump stops are ok. There is about 3 " under the bump stops

400 gal x 8.5= 3400 + 461 for skid unit 3861.
well under load limit.

Thanks

 

[Celticlady]

Update: Cab mount bushings Left side is the one shedding the bits. RH is getting ready to.
Yes. Now that I have more bits to put together its about 4 or 5 inches diameter.

I am guessing... is this why my cab tilt won't lock down now?

NDT said there was someone that had the sway bar bushing. Anybody have the cab bushings?

Anybody have the manual and page number for changing these. I have the manuals but the index leaves a lot to be desired. Point me in the right direction

 

[Third From Texas]

Might check with @Awesomeness here. He does the swaybar bushings and had talked about doing the cab.

You can find NOS surplus, but keep in mind that rubber ages whether it's in use or on a shelf. And the flippers selling those old NOS rubber bits want like $500 per bushing.

A few people have used hockey pucks, but I'd not recommend it myself. Dozens of threads if you search, but the above is the gist of it.

fyi: driver side upper is a bear to replace. Save yourself some headache and drop the front bumper and grill. But again, research the threads. Lots of tips and tricks.

 

[Third From Texas]

Also check with Scott DeWitt.

Advanced Automotion

 

[chucky]

I missed something or misread it there is no park in these transmissions the only thing that makes sense is when the brakes got wet in the creek one of them rusted to the drum and no longer than it was parked you should be able to go D then R a few times to break the shoes free from drum with the parking break released in gravel you might drag a ditch but on a hard surface and it a single axle it should pop free pretty easy it really happens more often in winter when your done driving in the winter weather just let the truck sit for a while before you set the parking break so they dont freeze to the drum and i would carry a set of tire chocks on the truck for just this type of occasion .

 

[Mullaney]

I missed something or misread it there is no park in these transmissions the only thing that makes sense is when the brakes got wet in the creek one of them rusted to the drum and no longer than it was parked you should be able to go D then R a few times to break the shoes free from drum with the parking break released in gravel you might drag a ditch but on a hard surface and it a single axle it should pop free pretty easy it really happens more often in winter when your done driving in the winter weather just let the truck sit for a while before you set the parking break so they dont freeze to the drum and i would carry a set of tire chocks on the truck for just this type of occasion .

.
After I let my M1088 sit for about a week after raining - the truck didn't have the power to break the shoes away from the drum.
Solving that problem required a BFH (Big Freakin Hammer).

If you drove the truck into a creek, then drove it out of the creek and down the road
a few miles the shoes and drum should have dried the water.

 

[Third From Texas]

I missed something or misread it there is no park in these transmissions the only thing that makes sense is when the brakes got wet in the creek one of them rusted to the drum and no longer than it was parked you should be able to go D then R a few times to break the shoes free from drum with the parking break released in gravel you might drag a ditch but on a hard surface and it a single axle it should pop free pretty easy it really happens more often in winter when your done driving in the winter weather just let the truck sit for a while before you set the parking break so they dont freeze to the drum and i would carry a set of tire chocks on the truck for just this type of occasion .

Actually, there is. Sorta. It may only be the later trucks, though (I don't recall my A0 having the feature).

But on an incline, the truck will not roll unless it is in F or R. It's a transmission thing (maybe limited to the later 3070?

I've no idea at what degree incline it kicks in, but my driveway is more than enough. I can't roll my truck unless it is running and put into gear with the brake off.

 

[chucky]

Actually, there is. Sorta. It may only be the later trucks, though (I don't recall my A0 having the feature).

But on an incline, the truck will not roll unless it is in F or R. It's a transmission thing (maybe limited to the later 3070?

I've no idea at what degree incline it kicks in, but my driveway is more than enough. I can't roll my truck unless it is running and put into gear with the brake off.

Well thats a new one on me . Ive never herd of a automatic with a park are you sure you dont have a shoe draging kind of holding your truck still?

 

[Mullaney]

Update: Cab mount bushings Left side is the one shedding the bits. RH is getting ready to.
Yes. Now that I have more bits to put together its about 4 or 5 inches diameter.

I am guessing... is this why my cab tilt won't lock down now?

NDT said there was someone that had the sway bar bushing. Anybody have the cab bushings?

Anybody have the manual and page number for changing these. I have the manuals but the index leaves a lot to be desired. Point me in the right direction

.
In my humble opinion, the TM is just about useless when it comes to instructions on replacing those "biscuits".

Removing the front bumper is optional. It gives you more room to operate but is not required.
Removing the grill does help mostly because it allows you to see what you are doing.
Socket Inch and 3/16th's fits the nut.

If you have a factory self recovery winch the only option is wrenching by hand.
Socket will not fit in the space given.
My solution to that was a cut-off wheel on a Dremel (needed small diameter) and a large chisel to split the nut off the bolt on the right side.

NEATEST thing is that the cab jack (up just a few inches) will lift the passenger side of the truck off the mounting point.
Block the truck up with a 2x4 (and maybe a piece of plywood for thickness)
Insert your new big fat (tall) rubber bushing on top, drop in the bolt, slip in the bottom rubber bushing and steel "backer" add the nut and run it down tight.
• I used a big pry bar to remove my safety block that was holding up the cab, let the hydraulics lower it in place, then and everything fell in place.
• I replaced the Grade 12 bolts and nuts. Mine were really rusty and looked pretty crummy.

Driver's side was an eight foot pry bar and a block.
Blocked it up and replaced the parts.
Took a second set of hands to do that.
Still fairly easy to replace.