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What is the Most Durable Paint?

motormayhem

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Hi Guys,
I have an M1009 and an M116A3 that need paint. They both get worked pretty heavily off-road so I would like to paint them with carc or something that stands up as well. Is there a good source for buying current milspec paint? I'd like to keep it brake fluid resistant, etc.
 
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98G

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BestPhoto_20140717_192235_1.jpg

CARC flakes off easily and is expensive for the real deal.

Behr housepaint may be the best bet, but it isn't as resistant as CARC to salt/brake fluid etc.

Or just use rustoleum. It's nowhere near as durable as the above choices, but its cheap and easy, looks good, and is readily available for touch up when the cactus scratch it. (Pictured)
 

clinto

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View attachment 659791

CARC flakes off easily and is expensive for the real deal.

Behr housepaint may be the best bet, but it isn't as resistant as CARC to salt/brake fluid etc.

Or just use rustoleum. It's nowhere near as durable as the above choices, but its cheap and easy, looks good, and is readily available for touch up when the cactus scratch it. (Pictured)
IMHO, CARC is the best bet. I believe it flakes because all these trucks have abysmal paint preparation. I have had several trucks that the military sandblasted and then didn't put any primer on! They shot the CARC directly onto bare metal. And all the other trucks I've had were maybe washed before being repainted. No paint would adhere to that.

CARC, when applied properly to a properly prepared surface is amazing. The two commercial sandblasters I use have both said something to the effect "I hate you, don't bring any of that Army paint to me-it takes forever."

If you want modern CARC colors (tan, green, brown, black, etc.) then you really have 3 choices:

Real CARC
Gillespie
House paint (Behr, etc.)

Real CARC is expensive (I think about $90 a gallon at my Sherwin-Williams industrial store) and it fades wicked awful and wicked fast in the sunlight. If you paint something with CARC, then you obviously care about it's appearance, so keep it out of the sun. A cheap $700 carport is sufficient. I think CARC is as easy to spray as anything else and I've shot plenty of it. People all over the internet will tell you it's made out of straight cancer lava, but it's no worse than any catalyzed urethane with isocyanates. Wear the proper gear (that you should wear regardless of what you're shooting) and you'll be fine. I wouldn't sand it without a respirator, but I wouldn't sand anything without one. The codes for the correct CARC colors are here on SS and you can buy it from a Sherwin-Williams industrial location.

Gillespie is cheap (like $40 shipped per gallon) and easy to spray but it is about as cheap a paint as you can spray. It's a single stage paint with no catalyst, so it doesn't harden or chemically bond to the primer under it. Easy to scratch, chip, etc., but really cheap and that's the only reason anyone shoots with it.

Behr. No experience and I know I'll get the pitchforks on this because I know a lot of people on SS love it, but you'd never get me to paint a vehicle with house paint. There are probably dozens of reasons that no paint shop anywhere would put house paint on a metal vehicle. But, it's cheap, easy to apply and apparently you can get the colors pretty darned good (I've seen stuff on the internet that I'd think was the real deal if it weren't for the poster admitting it was house paint.).

Source: I paints stuff.

20160829_162528.jpg20160829_101418.jpg <--PPG's house brand of base/clear. Customers '66 Valiant, idiot who painted the car didn't know the dash, steering column, A and B pillars needed to be painted (this is why you never let non-restoration professionals work on your antiques).

IMAG1926800x600.jpg <--Gillespie 383, fake CARC. Frame stripped to bare metal, primed with Southern Polyurethane's line of Epoxy primer.

20161216_204349.jpg20161216_204347.jpg <--Gillespie 24052 USMC semi gloss OD. On my Mule's new reproduction aluminum tank.


20161207_150310.jpgResized_20161207_161801.jpg20161218_184415.jpg20161218_194149.jpg <-- This is TM9's line of catalyzed urethane paints. It's the bomb, but expensive. I think $140 for a gallon and catalyst. But it's the awesome sauce. They don't offer a CARC color, so I didn't mention it above.

20131025_190838.jpg20131030_154346.jpg20131030_154423.jpg20131030_154509.jpgDSC_0699_zps55cf686b.jpgDSC_0705_zps011a4a7b.jpg <-- Gillespie Strata Blue on u/rustyjunk's 1969 W200 USAF crewcab.

IMG_3500.jpgIMG_3483.jpgIMG_3506.jpg <-- M416 stripped to bare metal, SP epoxy primer. Later painted, no pics
 

98G

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I don't disagree with anything Clinto said.


AO and climate play a part in selection as well. In Tucson, nothing rusts, ever. I've literally stored bare steel outside uncovered for 2 years and not even had surface rust begin to form.

On the other hand, the sun is a killer. It'll delaminate fiberglass in a few short weeks, and fade paint while you watch.

And the plant life is overtly hostile. CARC is going to be the most resistant to "Arizona pinstriping", but the hardest to repair once it does happen.
 

doghead

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Dot 5 does not damage paint.
 

m1010plowboy

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You should have a dozen replies by now,,,,,, everyone's got a special paint. I'm only familiar with this product because I grew up with the Endura family and first used their paint around 1969. I can't say it's the 'most durable' without seeing all the other 'best' paints out there so lets hope your thread draws in some 'most durable' paint replies. Here is a link to the Endura rep in Texas http://www.polyglasscoatings.com/
and the main site.
http://www.endura.ca/aboutus.html http://www.polyglasscoatings.com/

I haven't looked at prices or bought paint for 5 years so if you go Endura instead of carc, it'll be nice to see how the budgets run so let us know either way. I've never called the Texas branch so also let us know how those southerners treat you.....they're packin' ya know.

They paint ships with this stuff so painting my deuce with Endura was an easy choice. Can't post pics right now so here's a link http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?52255-G749-preservation/page3

Prep is real important if you're looking for long term results but I've laid it over all kinds of surfaces and had good results. We rolled and brushed the box on the 135 and so far the best results are on sandblasted metal. Pics about half way down the page.
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?52255-G749-preservation/page9
 

motormayhem

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And the plant life is overtly hostile. CARC is going to be the most resistant to "Arizona pinstriping", but the hardest to repair once it does happen.
That's what I'd like to protect for. Being an Arizona truck it has next to no rust on it. However when we are going along trails that are a bit overgrown the trees really tear into things. From my experience the CARC has held up well to this and comes out unscathed. My main concern is some of the other paints may get "pinstriped" when tough desert shrub and brush gouge it. Also it's kinda nice to be able to apply and remorve stenciling with acetone and not strip the base coat. Looks like there are a number of options I'm going to have to research. I'm surprised with the number of people who like the behr house paint. I would have thought it would always be soft and not very durable for long term.
 

nyoffroad

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Any good automotive paint supplier that wants to sell paint can mix your color in a two part urethane that will be tough and fade resistant and they can add flatner to the mix so it's semi gloss or totally flat. I mixed mine as a semi gloss desert tan and what a difference in inside temperature and bird shizit dosn't stick! No good paint is cheap, expect atleast $120 per sprayable gallon.
 

hndrsonj

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Any good automotive paint supplier that wants to sell paint can mix your color in a two part urethane that will be tough and fade resistant and they can add flatner to the mix so it's semi gloss or totally flat. I mixed mine as a semi gloss desert tan and what a difference in inside temperature and bird shizit dosn't stick! No good paint is cheap, expect atleast $120 per sprayable gallon.
This is absolutely correct, however; hard to get a real "flat" color. A lot of times has a slight semi-gloss appearance. You might try TM9 Ordnance. they have correct colors for some of the paints in Urethane.

http://store.midwestmilitary.com/Catalyzed-Urethane-Paint-Military-Vehicles-s/1968.htm
 
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CMPPhil

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This is absolutely correct, however; hard to get a real "flat" color. A lot of times has a slight semi-gloss appearance. You might try TM9 Ordnance. they have correct colors for some of the paints in Urethane.

http://store.midwestmilitary.com/Catalyzed-Urethane-Paint-Military-Vehicles-s/1968.htm
Hi Guys

One work around for the semi-gloss is to leave the harder out of your last top coat. For years I've been using Dupont Centari mixed to match the original colors of my CMPs. Yeah expensive paint. But follow my logic, first top coat is straight Centari with harner but NO flattner, provideds great seal coat over primer. Second coat has 10-20% flatter and NO harder.

The paint jobs are lasting 15-20 years the one advantage I've seen with going Dupont is that when I go in 10 years later for more paint and following same mix routine the paint matches on the truck.

Now having said all that had somebody shown me that I could paint the trucks with house paint for a fraction the cost, I'd have gone that route. Seen some really great SteelSoldiers paint jobs at shows.

Cheers Phil
 

Sparo2

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So it looks like Behr is the brand of choice. Am I looking for a particular product line or will any Behr exterior latex paint work?

Also, should I get it with paint and primer together?
 
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