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What is the trick to get the inner rear lug nuts (studs) off

sak00

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I decided to see if I could get the wheels off here at the house, before I had trouble on the road. Smart Idea! I thought so. Anyway, I read the tech manual and found that the rear inner wheels have a lug stud that the "other" end of the lug wrench should take off. Well I have no handle for said wrench, and tried to improvise one. I can't budge it. I needed a cheater bar to get the outside nuts off. I believe it has been centuries since these things have been off. I should say I've only had the truck a couple of months. When I put this back together everything will be greased.
Can I use a torch and use heat to loosen these things up or is there some sort of trick I'm missing? Anybody got some good how to's

Thanks for the help
 

clinto

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RE: What is the trick to get the inner rear lug nuts (studs)

Just get one of the special "Budd" sockets fro Houdel, here on SS. They take the outer and inner lugs off (and on). 3/4" drive.
 

Recovry4x4

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RE: What is the trick to get the inner rear lug nuts (studs)

If you prefer to use the OE lugwrench, acetomatoco should have some NOS handles or I think he did at one point.
 

73m819

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RE: What is the trick to get the inner rear lug nuts (studs)

DONT GREASE
 

73m819

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RE: Re: RE: What is the trick to get the inner rear lug nuts

wont stay tight, not a good dot thing, thay really frown on that, can over tighten and crack the rim or stud.

clean the threads real good, any badly rusted or corroaded, replace .

when i pulled the right rears on the 819, i had to use a 8' cheater, broke 1 rachet, destroyed 1 breaker bar, broke 2 extensions, and broke 2 thimbles and 1 stud

i faught ALL 40 of them
 

ah1955

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73m819 is right don't use grease use ant-seaze compond I prefeure the copper high temp. As far as getting them off soak them down with PB Blaster or your choace of penatrating lube, then a good budd socket and a ext. held up on a jack stand, make sure you are going the correct direction then put some omph on it.
Could do like I'm lucky tobe able to do and get the 1inch gun out and smack the socket with a hammer while hitting the gun with 140 psi.
 

sak00

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All righty, anti-seize it is. Been soaking for days with PB blaster and heated it up today with no luck. I guess I'll start looking for a budd socket. Yes, I do have a good set of jack stands and I am going the right way according to the TM. Right side is right hand thread and left side is left hand thread. But, thanks for the reminder. Glad I started this at the house instead of on the road. That would have sucked. Anyway, I'll keep puttering around on it. A simple 10 minute job turned into a weeks work. Just my luck.
 

gimpyrobb

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Did you check what the thimble says? They should be stamped L or R. That will tell you which way to loosen it. Sometimes they get swapped onto the wrong side.
 

73m819

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anti-seize is as bad as grease, can be really over tightened or at other times wont stay tight, i have seen dot pull trucks off the road at ispection stations because of grease or anti- seize, had to go out pull the wheels and clean them up
 

73m819

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check the end of the thimble, MAKE sure that thay are correct, it has been known to have the wrong stud install, sometimes because the right one was out of stock, or the person grabed the wrong stud and once installed was not going to do everything all over, lloyd (poppop) has this problem on his 813 on both fronts and one rear that i know of
 

sak00

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gimpyrobb said:
Did you check what the thimble says? They should be stamped L or R. That will tell you which way to loosen it. Sometimes they get swapped onto the wrong side.
Yep, sure did. I'm on the r side at the moment.

No Anti-seize either....Rust sucks....I guess I'll just clean them up real good and work them evey once in a while.

Thanks for the info.
 

sak00

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OK, I don't know how it is inside the thimbles yet. But if bad, I have no choice but to replace them. I definitly want to do this the right way.
 

ah1955

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73m819 don't want to steal the thread but, there is a torqe for dry thread and different types of lubed threads.I work in a fleet shop that maintaines 75 power units and 300 trailers and every wheel and every lug had better be anti-seized that would be Budd or hub piloted and all steer axle lugs are checked with torqe wrench to 480 ft. lb.
Never had any problem or question with D.O.T. about anti-seize on lugs, maybe if someone was putting it on by the bucket full could be a problem?
 

73m819

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sak00 has a good point, a lot of our trucks have had there tires on for years, it is better to know that we can change on the road BEFORE we need to than find out the hard way, when i had my new 1200s put on, the shop useing a 1"impact broke one thimble and one stud on the left side, thats how tight thay were
 

73m819

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in cal, thay (the dot) would not allow grease or anti - seize, the problem is that most jiust slam the 1" impact on at about 150# air pressure and squeese the trigger till theres no movement after going around about 3 times
 

jatonka

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My old tire man told me I would get in trouble with NYDOT if I used never seize on my wheel studs and nuts. I said OK. I use military issue black anti seize compound on every threaded thing I ever plan on taking apart again and I always will. Two other heavy duty truck shops in my area tell me they always use some never seize on truck Budd type thimbles and nuts. Every can of never seize says right on it that it is not a lubricant. I also check my wheel nuts for proper torque after a day or two's use. That has always kept my wheels on but able to be taken off when the time came. I guess it's a personal choice here. JT
 

bottleworks

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I was always told that lube or anti-seize on lugs is illegal. This was also said by the NABI rep when he was at my work to train us on the new buses. I know of many places that will penalize you or fire you for putting anything on lug threads.
 

FormerNewMVGuy

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I stupidly put never seize on my lugs once! After about a year, when i tried to get them off it ripped the threads right off the studs!!! Now i just wire wheel the studs and put em on dry!
 
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