While dropping in a radiator and charged air cool I noticed this line driver side too of the 3126. Looks like 1/16” air line. Not sure what it’s for. I need to find a new ferrule for it since the end that’s broken off is fused to its ferrule. Also need to fix the wires that were ripped off next to it. I’m guessing this happened when the last guy yanked out the radiator.
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What is this line for? Rebuilding my 1083 saga.
- Thread starter JRKJeeper
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Ether injection
Now that makes sense! Do you know what the plug next to that is with the sheared off wires? Everything cranked fine yesterday when I finally got my battery situation sorted out. I should have it full of coolant tomorrow. Some diesel into the tank and hopes it comes back to life. Then I just need to get a new alternator into it. But that might be wishful thinking. The Allison push button pad had hieroglyphics on it when I got the truck power going. Hoping it might work itself out or just be a bad section of the display once it does start up. I think it’s been taken apart for years at this point.
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- Location
- Portland, OR
That's the intake air temp sensor that controls the grid heater.
Today is a great day! Took the this unknown beast and brought it back to life. After getting all the missing and broken parts replaced its up and going now. Just two things popped up today. The trans push button control has what seems to be a bad screen. It shifts and drives fine just doesnt say what it should. Also this valve under the PDP is leaking air out the hole in the bottom at a fast pace. Anyone able to tell me what that is so I can replace it? One is good the other vents.
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Ronmar
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Those are the fan and center diff air control solenoid valves. I identified a replacement, about $29 in a youtube vid under my usermame there, Rronmar...
I found that thank you. Does air coming out of the bottom constantly mean its bad?
Ronmar
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Yes. They feed air from tge supply inlet port to the output port to perform an action. They stop supplying air from inlet to outlet port and vent/release the outlet port pressure when done performing the action. Commonly known as a 3 way 2 position valve.
If leaking, supply/inlet is leaking to outlet and passing out thru the open vent. Or if the solenoid is active, simy leaking past the supposedly closed vent.
If it is the fan solenoid is it leaking with ignition on or off? If it is the axle power divider does it still leak when mode is selected?
It really doesnt matter, it should vent once briefly when de-energized, like the fan control does when you shut off the truck, or de-select mode, but should never leak steadilly.
Havnt had one apart but could have crud inside, but just as likley are failing 20 year old rubber seals...
Thats why i researched an inexpensive replacement...
Today I replaced the Trans push button control which was working but the screen was all wonky. Pulled it out and it was marked bad on the back. So I swapped in the new one and thats perfect now. IT also seemed to stop the fan clutch solenoid from dumping as well. It now only dumps when I turn off the power switch.
I also swapped in the CTIS control from my 1078 to this 1083. New problem now. When it starts sending air back to the tires it lets air into the lines for like seconds then you can hear it blast out from underneath. I crawled back under and it comes out of the quick air release on the center most axle. The box will just keep trying to satisfy by sending air but then the quick release opens and blasts some air out. I didnt have my phone to take a pic but here is a pic of the valve that is exhausting, Only mine says Eaton instead of spicer. But when I look it up everything is calling it a air brake release valve. This is definitely where its exhausting. And only when the CTIS is sending air. If I unhook the CTIS box then no more air releasing.
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Ronmar
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Sounds normal to me... The CTIS dump valves dump briefly at the end of EVERY cycle. Tgey arecremote pressure regs. They pass input to the wheels when the input pressure is greater.
Anything over 5psi sent to the wheels opens the wheel valves.
When the input side of the dumps is lower than the output/wheel side, the dumps/vent output/tire air to equal the pressure felt on the input port. Only tire air can come out of those vent horns...
When CTIS ends a cycle, it opens the control side and vents the pcu all the way to the input side of the dumps to 0PSI. Seeing 0 on the input and tire pressure on the output port, they dump output/tire air to match the input 0PSI. When the output falls to 5PSI the wheel valves close cutting of the air supply from the tires and the dump stops
If it dumps longer than about a second, a restriction along the way may be holding wheel valves open or a wheel valve may be sticking/not sealing properly.
Just setting doing nothing, any air coming out of a dump vent indicates a leaking wheel valve.
Anything over 5psi sent to the wheels opens the wheel valves.
When the input side of the dumps is lower than the output/wheel side, the dumps/vent output/tire air to equal the pressure felt on the input port. Only tire air can come out of those vent horns...
When CTIS ends a cycle, it opens the control side and vents the pcu all the way to the input side of the dumps to 0PSI. Seeing 0 on the input and tire pressure on the output port, they dump output/tire air to match the input 0PSI. When the output falls to 5PSI the wheel valves close cutting of the air supply from the tires and the dump stops
If it dumps longer than about a second, a restriction along the way may be holding wheel valves open or a wheel valve may be sticking/not sealing properly.
Just setting doing nothing, any air coming out of a dump vent indicates a leaking wheel valve.