What maintenance to do first?

[Mysterioustruck]

I have a M1009 I dont know much about. I figured I'd go through the PMCS checklists in the -10 and -20 when it gets warmer.

I do know it has a class II/III oil leak somewhere. I intend to change the oil anyway because it's a bit low and I don't know when it got oil last.

The only other problem is that it doesn't like to get started after sitting overnight. At about 40 degrees it takes me a few minutes worth of cranking and flipping the key on until the wait light goes off before it finally gets going. It gives me white smoke during the process but runs clean otherwise. Once it's running I can cut it off and start it up again no problem. I suspect the fuel filter so I'm going to change it. If that and an oil change doesn't help I'm not sure where to go next.

Is there an established SOP for what to look at on these trucks, or am I best served with a good old PMCS?

 

[user65]

I always run some stanadyne injector cleaner first.

I would change all fluids so you have a known history on her.

 

[user65]

I have a M1009 I dont know much about. I figured I'd go through the PMCS checklists in the -10 and -20 when it gets warmer.

I do know it has a class II/III oil leak somewhere. I intend to change the oil anyway because it's a bit low and I don't know when it got oil last.

The only other problem is that it doesn't like to get started after sitting overnight. At about 40 degrees it takes me a few minutes worth of cranking and flipping the key on until the wait light goes off before it finally gets going. It gives me white smoke during the process but runs clean otherwise. Once it's running I can cut it off and start it up again no problem. I suspect the fuel filter so I'm going to change it. If that and an oil change doesn't help I'm not sure where to go next.

Is there an established SOP for what to look at on these trucks, or am I best served with a good old PMCS?

Do you have a multi meter? You could try testing continuity on the glow plugs to make sure none of them are popped.

 

[Mullaney]

I have a M1009 I dont know much about. I figured I'd go through the PMCS checklists in the -10 and -20 when it gets warmer.

I do know it has a class II/III oil leak somewhere. I intend to change the oil anyway because it's a bit low and I don't know when it got oil last.

The only other problem is that it doesn't like to get started after sitting overnight. At about 40 degrees it takes me a few minutes worth of cranking and flipping the key on until the wait light goes off before it finally gets going. It gives me white smoke during the process but runs clean otherwise. Once it's running I can cut it off and start it up again no problem. I suspect the fuel filter so I'm going to change it. If that and an oil change doesn't help I'm not sure where to go next.

Is there an established SOP for what to look at on these trucks, or am I best served with a good old PMCS?

.
The white smoke is a cold cylinder or several and like you said, when it warms up everything is as it should be. Definitely like user65 suggested, checking out the glow plugs would be a good investment with your time.

 

[ezgn]

I always run some stanadyne injector cleaner first.

I would change all fluids so you have a known history on her.

The symptoms you describe sound like a classic loss of fuel prime. You need to check all of the fuel hoses to make sure they are not cracked, brittle and leaking. Look at the fuel injection pump to see if any fuel is leaking at the pump and in and around the valley. I don't know what type of fuel filter base you have, but the original bases are prone to leaking. Changing the fuel filter itself I doubt will solve your problem. Clean up the oil on the engine with a de-greaser, and check to see where the oil is leaking from. Pull the glow plugs and make sure you have functioning glow plugs.

 

[Keith_J]

Hard start can be a sign of a leaking injector pump. If you see diesel on and underneath the injection pump, change the filter after the engine is warm and easily started.

Definitely check all 8 glow plugs. Each GP controller differs a bit so pre glow time and after glow frequency are variable, you will notice an increase in these when glow plugs fail. The temperature sensor sets pre glow from 12. seconds at 70 °F to 35 seconds at 9 °F (the lowest temperature I have witnessed in mine).

Other issues to.inspect would be harmonic damper rubber ring, replace if hard or cracked. Reseal of the injection pump is possible, pulling the intake manifold makes it easier plus a few more gaskets to replace.

Oil cooler lines are known leak points, these start from the block above the oil filter.

 

[Mysterioustruck]

The symptoms you describe sound like a classic loss of fuel prime. You need to check all of the fuel hoses to make sure they are not cracked, brittle and leaking. Look at the fuel injection pump to see if any fuel is leaking at the pump and in and around the valley. I don't know what type of fuel filter base you have, but the original bases are prone to leaking. Changing the fuel filter itself I doubt will solve your problem. Clean up the oil on the engine with a de-greaser, and check to see where the oil is leaking from. Pull the glow plugs and make sure you have functioning glow plugs.

I'm inclined to think you're correct about priming. I will check glow plugs too. I had occasion to maintain MVs in Alaska and glow plugs were always everybody's first suspect, but more often than not they weren't the problem.

Has anyone ever compiled a checklist of things to look at on a newly acquired CUCV? I'm sure after 37 years there are repeat offenders on these guys.

 

[Mysterioustruck]

Hard start can be a sign of a leaking injector pump. If you see diesel on and underneath the injection pump, change the filter after the engine is warm and easily started.

Definitely check all 8 glow plugs. Each GP controller differs a bit so pre glow time and after glow frequency are variable, you will notice an increase in these when glow plugs fail. The temperature sensor sets pre glow from 12. seconds at 70 °F to 35 seconds at 9 °F (the lowest temperature I have witnessed in mine).

Other issues to.inspect would be harmonic damper rubber ring, replace if hard or cracked. Reseal of the injection pump is possible, pulling the intake manifold makes it easier plus a few more gaskets to replace.

Oil cooler lines are known leak points, these start from the block above the oil filter.

Thanks, this is the kind if info I was curious about. The harmonic damper is suspect too.

I've only had the truck 2 days so I'm still getting to know it.

 

[Skinny]

Take your book and throw it out. It isn't applicable in the real world unless you are using it for a teardown procedure or wiring diagram.

As suggested....do all of the above.

Figure out what budget you have here and start with the most important stuff.

Injection Pump/Lift Pump/New Filter or Upgrade the Head/Glow Plugs/Controller Card

Batts/Alternator Rebuilds

Everything made of rubber including the damper

Fluids

Go from there...

Remember it's 40 years old and how reliable it is factors off of your time and money invested in going through it. That isn't going to be found in a repair manual.

 

[Skinny]

Duplicate

 

[Mullaney]

Take your book and throw it out. It isn't applicable in the real world unless you are using it for a teardown procedure or wiring diagram.

As suggested....do all of the above.

Figure out what budget you have here and start with the most important stuff.

Injection Pump/Lift Pump/New Filter or Upgrade the Head/Glow Plugs/Controller Card

Batts/Alternator Rebuilds

Everything made of rubber including the damper

Fluids

Go from there...

Remember it's 40 years old and how reliable it is factors off of your time and money invested in going through it. That isn't going to be found in a repair manual.

.
Well said @Skinny ! New rubber everywhere you see it is a definite plus - and relatively easy to fix for not a lot of bread...

 

[Keith_J]

I would suspect the lift pump may be out. The transfer pump in the injection pump can draw 18" Hg so it can run without the cam driven lift pump. You will find out when doing a filter swap. The lift pump on my 1031 died at 32k on the odometer and it failed in the leaky mode.

If the filter bleed flows with the engine running, the pump should be ok..for now.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

For your hard start problem, there is a logical, easy to follow troubleshooting procedure in the TM. Start there, instead of throwing this fix and that fix at it because somebody said it's probably X problem.

 

[cucvrus]

Good Morning. I think I was the delivery driver for your M1009. The first thing I would do is pull the glow plugs and bench test them. I never saw that M1009 until 0600 that AM when I put the tow bar on it and towed it south. I also suspect from what you are telling me is the fuel system has an air leak in it somewhere. I honestly never heard it run or cold start. Getting the fuel system airtight and confirmation on the glow plugs being operational would be my first repair action. I can help from afar along with others. I always pull the glow plugs because it is easy and tells you instantly if they are good or not. The only tool needed is a 3/8" deep socket and a ratchet. If they don't come out it can get tricky but they come out, one way or another. Pull the glow plugs for starters. Do you own a small jump pack? Clamp the negative on the threads of the glow plug and just touch the positive to the spade. It will spark and heat instantly. DO NOT attach the positive to the spade. Bad things happen and I had them explode spewing hot material out. Just a touch and the tip will be RED HOT. Good Luck. Report back.

 

[Mysterioustruck]

For your hard start problem, there is a logical, easy to follow troubleshooting procedure in the TM. Start there, instead of throwing this fix and that fix at it because somebody said it's probably X problem.

And so I did. The -10 says to holler at it lol.



Surely that's a typographical or digital transcription error. I have attached the relevant pages from the -10 and -20. The steps correspond well to the advice given above.

I'm confident I can solve the hard start. I'll just have to find the time. Fluid change and state inspection tomorrow, then I'll dig into it more. Also currently shopping for rubber.

 

[Mysterioustruck]

Good Morning. I think I was the delivery driver for your M1009. The first thing I would do is pull the glow plugs and bench test them. I never saw that M1009 until 0600 that AM when I put the tow bar on it and towed it south. I also suspect from what you are telling me is the fuel system has an air leak in it somewhere. I honestly never heard it run or cold start. Getting the fuel system airtight and confirmation on the glow plugs being operational would be my first repair action. I can help from afar along with others. I always pull the glow plugs because it is easy and tells you instantly if they are good or not. The only tool needed is a 3/8" deep socket and a ratchet. If they don't come out it can get tricky but they come out, one way or another. Pull the glow plugs for starters. Do you own a small jump pack? Clamp the negative on the threads of the glow plug and just touch the positive to the spade. It will spark and heat instantly. DO NOT attach the positive to the spade. Bad things happen and I had them explode spewing hot material out. Just a touch and the tip will be RED HOT. Good Luck. Report back.

Yes, thanks again for coming down. I'll check the glow plugs if only to rule them out, then get the fuel system in shape. I really appreciate the field expedient testing method. I will give it a shot.

 

[Keith_J]

Long cranking time and white smoke is definitely glow plugs. I've yet to see glow plug failure to be anything but open resistance...save the one time when the prior owner installed 24 volt glow plugs. That was easily seen as they were HMMWV plugs with the round connector. They had converted the connectors. A set of Bosch glow plugs and it started in two turns of the crank.

 

[Skinny]

Wait people test these? Time is money, if they are out they should be replaced anyway. Save yourself from the shouting

 

[Mysterioustruck]

Update for posterity:

It was the glow plugs. Only two of them tested as good. Two were swollen badly. I bought the tool from Leroy Diesel to pull them out. That tool is worth its weight in gold.

I installed eight AC Delco 13G glow plugs and now the motor starts up instantly with no smoke.

 

[Keith_J]

Love it when a plan comes together..thanks for reporting your success, some of us need a bit of optimism.