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What modifications should I do for my 1009?

CycleJay

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Timo,

Here are a couple of simple ideas..
Roof rack for extra gear..
And you can keep the push bar and still get a winch, mount the winch underneath and behind
the front bumper, it can and has been done..

Good luck with it. But start off first on making it start and run reliably, like Skinny said.
Also... "if it is electrical, clean it. If it is rubber, replace it...".

Then once you have a reliable daily driver, repair or replace anything that it needs due
to age, wear and tear, etc.
Then after all those more important to the functionality are out of the way,
then you can think about upgrades.

I have a M1009 too, and I am in that middle stage, repairing or replacing important things.

Do not forget to do the "Doghead mod"

Just my $0.02 cents..
 

Keith_J

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The Doghead mod is a must, the truck is missing the rectangular metal can starter relay. IOW, it isn't currently running.
 

mkcoen

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The only real mod you need to worry about right now is the one that makes it go from not running to running. There are lots of necessary things that need to take place before the "pimp my ride" stuff is even considered.
 

timo247

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hahaha mark with "pimp my ride!" thanks keith the 1031 will be a useful tool in getting it running and eventually running well. I just need to pay off my debt to you mark and then I can start making some money that goes in my wallet and makes ME feel a lot better than just you not having to pay me and its off a debt. I can't wait to get it running now thats its off the trailer and that keith can can help me with getting it in working condition. thanks everyone for the good ideas and thanks CycleJay for telling me I can still have a winch mounted behind the bumper under the push bar. eventually when I have some money piled up and saved I will get a one ton suspension. would the suspension affect my GM?
 

mkcoen

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Well we actually got Timo's 1009 running this afternoon. He helped keith_j put the alts in and do the Doghead Starter Relay mod then with some fresh diesel, tried bleeding the lines - Nothing! Keith then pulled his Mighty-Vac out and helped get the diesel up to the filter and we gave it a shot - Nothing! A little cranking with the slave cable hooked up to the 1031 and it belched some very black smoke, coughed a couple of times, smoothed out and ran pretty decent for something that probably hasn't been started in over 5 years.

We need to inspect and bleed the brakes before we give it a road test but he's on his way to having a high school 1009. Now if I can just talk him out of all the JC Whitney style/pimp my ride stuff all will be good.
 

CycleJay

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Timo,

You are welcome.

I have seen a build thread on here, and that is where that guy put his winch on his M1009.
He mounted it underneath and behind the front bumper.. and somehow mounted the rollers
themselves up front somewhere. to make it work.
Search for it on here.

Good luck and good night...

Let us know if you need more help.
 

Keith_J

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We also bench tested the alternators. How? A little 12 volt sealed lead acid battery, a small lighbulb, the two pole Delco connector and some wire.

The lightbulb was hooked up to the switched connection, usually a color other than red, the red goes to the positive on the battery as this is the sense. Then black to negative, red to positive.

The lightbulb should illuminate when the alternator isn't spinning. We spun the pulley with an angle grinder that was turning a wire wheel. Not the best contact but it caused the lightbulb to go off.

Sure, you can always try them out installed BUT bench testing means you only install one time.

Too bad Tim wasn't around for the bench test. But at least he got to participate in hanging alternators and belt tension adjustments.
 

Keith_J

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I'm thinking complete brake inspection.

Not to rain on the parade, we still have not inspected and tested the drive train. Things that could need work include the vacuum regulator, modulator and governor.

Then there is the glow plug issue. 4 of the 8 had bullet terminal glow plugs attached with alligator clips that were pigtailed into the existing harness. The 4 remaining glow plug connectors were very loose. At 10-15 amperes each, you can bet the springs in the connectors have lost their temper.

It is never a good idea to mix glow plugs since they are a parallel circuit. Hopefully none are swollen.
 

Keith_J

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For those wondering...yes, the brakes just needed bleeding. I have a Motive Products Power Bleeder, it worked great. While the engine eventually started, it had 4 glow plugs from a HMMWV and 4 burned out proper CUCV glow plugs. So I got a set of Bosch Duratherms and suitably modified them to fit the existing connections. We lucked out, none were swollen to the point of resisting removal. The connectors were weak so I took them apart and sprung the contacts for tight fit. Tim then cleaned the contacts with bronze wire brush as they were downright nasty. Now it starts perfectly and more importantly, it STOPS. Yes, pads, shoes discs and drums are all fine.

Next will be transmission service, the pan is leaking which is perfectly normal for a 28 year old TH400. Class 2 leak so it was fine for a 1 mile road test. There was some hesitation engaging the first clutch but this might be air in the hydraulics from storage. The leaking transmission fluid is bright cherry red.

Other things needed for the restoration, aside from paint, would be turn signal stalk and some mirrors. Rear lights look weak, the instrument panel light was out but it fixed itself halfway through the mile long road test.
 
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timo247

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Sometimes It's one where I just sit back and see whats gonna happen after my handiwork and bite my nails hoping I did everything right and how keith said to do it. I love working on it! It feels so good after working on it and seeing what I helped do. Oh and no more amateur paint removal techniques involving a scraper and me using it to take off paint. I scratched it a wee bit on the left door but more scary is the rust forming on the bare metal!:0 So after the transmission work its hopefully on to cosmetics which is gonna be the greatest part ever! Can't wait to start stripping off the paint professionally and prep it for paint and body work. I have a bunch of before pics and will post eventually If I ever figure out how to add them on to the thread from my dang phone. since everything has been engine stuff there isnt much for before and after pics so all pics will be bodywork and paint.
 

spencer13

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4 in lift- anybigger and front end and drive line get screwed
33in tires anybigger and you totally need lower gears than the 3.08 you have
cb radio w/ pa
light racks are coool but if its on the rooof itll gett ripped off asap by branches
must have fullsize spare
get rid of box fuel filter swith to inline
skip the glow plug controller and wire in a starter button for manual control
no ac take top off
 

CycleJay

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re; What modifications should I do for my 1009?

A heavy duty tether, the standard one breaks easy when drug.
Do you mean a tether for towing/extraction, etc.? and where do you get one? cost?

I am following this thread, and may use some of the advice here to beef up my M1009 too..

Thanks...
 

Warthog

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Do you mean a tether for towing/extraction, etc.? and where do you get one? cost?

I am following this thread, and may use some of the advice here to beef up my M1009 too..

Thanks...
CJ,

73M819 is saying to attach a heavy duty tether line to the M1009 because he uses his CUCV as a wheel chock for his wrecker. The standard line breaks too easy. ;)

Sometimes you have to read between the lines.
 
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