What Oil and Filter do you use?

[Jack Lope]

I wonder how AC Delco filters stack up compared to FRAM.


Do you notice the exhaust smell changing with different oil types?

 

[hannaganscr]

I use john deere oil its awesome. A bit spendy but the technology that they put into there oil products is great. They have there own oil technology department. All there lubricants are great and no I dont work for deere.

 

[tankie88]

I use the same oil we use in our semi's.Don't cost me nothing.Exol 15w40.What's good for MAN,MERC,MACK and IVECO is good enough for me.I use what ever filter is on the shelf at the motor factors(as long as it aint dirt cheap)

 

[61sleepercab]

Wix or NAPA(made by wix?) and Valvolene All Fleet Plus 15W40

I ran a VW diesel almost 200,00 miles on All Fleet and on tear down there was not even a wear pattern on the cam lobes and the crank was just polished!! Mark

 

[Skinny]

Why did you tear the engine down at 200k if it was in such great shape?

 

[forest522]

Well, for what its worth, I'll throw in for Wix filter and Rotella or Delo...honestly, whichever of the two is on sale.

 

[PorkChopXpress]

I haven't cracked a book on fluids and engine cooling/lubrication in a really long time, so please do forgive me if I seem a little fuzzy. But If I recall correctly the reason why the Delco filters were shortened was because of the inclusion of an anti-drainback valve, which keeps oil in the fliter for startup. The older Delco filters (current PN: PF1218CL) were longer, with the thinking being that a longer filter = higher physical capacity (which, not regarding physical volume and filtering capacity of the media, is true). The idea of a higher capacity was supposed to overcome the flow of oil at a certain temperature thorugh a metered orifice (for the context of this discussion, it corresponds to the threaded nipple to which the filter attches). This, if I remember, is related to specific gravity and determining the weight (i.e 15w40) of an oil. Long story shortened, the temp difference between the engine block and filter would cause a siphoning effect and pull the oil out of the long filter, causing a dry start and potentially damaging the bearings. The extra capacity was supposed to overcome this through physical gravity. This theory didn't work out, so GM added the valve in the filter, and for whatever reason shortened it - probably to keep capacity low to avoid surpassing the bust capacity of the filter during startup.

Needless to say, a full-flow filter (no bypass, just straight oil whether it is dirty or not) is just as bad as a plugged filter. I love me some Wix filters, but I went back to Delco (PF1218 - get 'em all day long at RockAuto for about 3 bucks each, you can order in bulk, too) because I had a hard time finding Wix filters with the anti-drainback valve installed. Plus, the micron rating between the Wix and Delcos are so close as to be negligable, and if it really is that important then run two filters instead of one through a relo kit. Otherwise, just keep an eye on the oil pressure. As why I place so much emphasis on the anti-drainback valve: 6.2's and 6.5' are notorious for eating cranks. Aside from keeping a good harmonic balancer installed, having the oil wedge on which the crank and rods ride as soon as possible after startup will largely avert this problem.

As for oil changes, when it begins to drop when engine is at operating temp, its time to change the oil. Or, to be safe, every 3K on the Odo.