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What rims are these?

clinto

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Aaaaaaaaaaarrrrrrrggggggggggghhhhhhhhh!!!! Kenny's edit beat me to it!
 

Armada

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Going to send him a e-mail thanks guys. Any of you ever price them out? Very very nice work he does...
Lots and lotsa $$$$$. You could have ONE of those bob jobs, or a BUNCH of dueces. They are nice though.
 

citizensoldier

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Just want the rims guy not the truck.. BUT I would pay $20,000.00 for one of his trucks before I pay another $30,000.00 for a new truck any day.. Will last much longer and I can still fix it... More useful with PTO and front winch than any new truck I have bought. Plus I paid interest! 50 to 60 thousand miles and its a piece of poo.. Lets see now.. Hmmmm .. Blew the rearend and 9000 miles, water pump at 50 thousand,steering column has a short, door latch broke last week, intake manifold gasket is leaking now, fuel pump quit and god for bid you can repair it! No you have to buy a $400 dollar module, and thats just off the top of my head. So total cost is probably closer to $40,000.00.
Never again! Will drive old junk the rest of my life and retire from the money I save.
Sorry for offending any of you GM workers out there. My dad had 38 years for chevy, Gramps had 32, other gramps had 41 and the list goes on. Great grandpa was one who welded the doors shut during the great sit down strike too. Just went wrong somewhere and how many times should I put my hard earned carpenter money into a GM money hole? 91 Subaru with 180 thousand and still going.. Soap box stashed and venting over.. aua
Anyway how are you Paul??Hehehehehehehehehheh
 

rmgill

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Personally, I'd prefer split combat rims that bolt together. Nice because if you can fab up or obtain a bead lock insert, you can assemble them with not too much trouble.
 

sermis

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I have not been able to work on it much with the holidays coming up. I have balance issues with the front so don’t want to drive it too much and wear the front tires from the bouncing. The rear 4 rims were from 10 to 18 ounces out of balance. Not bad with torch cutting the centers free handed and not really grinding them good. With doing the rims the way I did not using a homemade lathe to cut the 3” extension, homemade lathe did really good, and cutting out the centers freehanded they really need to be balanced before mounting tires. I have driven it about 200 miles. I balanced the rear rims before mounting the tires but did not balance with tires mounted. The rears do not bounce or wobble. Fronts just bounce some due to the rims not being balanced. Wife followed the other night and said everything looked good.
Building the rims is not real hard. On a scale of 1 to 10 I would give it a 4. if you can cut and weld you can do it. Balancing is not hard either. Take then to a truck shop that has a balancer and have the rims spun to know how much weight and where. Harbor freight for a cheep digital scale to weigh the metal plate to weld on for balancing. Subtract enough for the welding rod and weld them on.
 

sermis

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Here is an idea on the weights for the rims. This is the same principal as lead clip on weights but permanent. Same thing as how brake drums are balanced. No quarter for reference so how about a chap stick. This is the rim that was 18 ounces out.






 

sermis

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With you being so far away you might want to contact "Hot Rod Duece". He gave me the idea and might be willing to help. If you have any skill you can do them.
 

Recovry4x4

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Is there going to be a market for riveted wheels now? I swapped 7 of them to RDM. In the not so distant future I hope to have 6 more off the truck and ready for disposal.
 

Recovry4x4

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Is there going to be a market for riveted wheels now? I swapped 7 of them to RDM. In the not so distant future I hope to have 6 more off the truck and ready for disposal.
 
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