what should i do. drive or haul it.

[5ton4ever]

It's your choice, but think about what could go wrong. Something breaks on the trip and where do you go to get parts? Also do you have the correct licence? Some states require a class B licence to drive a 3 axle vehicle over 10,000 gvw. (Ca. does). And are you prepared for a long trip @55 mph max? and a lot slower on hills. Just get all the facts before you jump in headfirst. I would say have it hauled home, then have fun with it.

 

[bubba_got_you]

ship it

 

[paulfarber]

Nothing listed here is a deal breaker. You need a proper license no matter what. You need proper insurance no matter what. You need to PM the truck no matter what.

Why throw in a several $100 hauling charge? Unless the deal was to good to pass up drive it. Make sure its safe, first.

 

[bkfran69]

I did not get the deuce bidding as already ended by the time I got back to the computer, I was at work. I have another ? should I drive a deuce with a leaking wheel cyl 100 miles wich is mostly interstate. I think I already know the answer but I thought I would ask.

 

[Billy Bobbed]

I did not get the deuce bidding as already ended by the time I got back to the computer, I was at work. I have another ? should I drive a deuce with a leaking wheel cyl 100 miles wich is mostly interstate. I think I already know the answer but I thought I would ask.

 

[paulfarber]

I did not get the deuce bidding as already ended by the time I got back to the computer, I was at work. I have another ? should I drive a deuce with a leaking wheel cyl 100 miles wich is mostly interstate. I think I already know the answer but I thought I would ask.

Cap the line. You still have 5 other hubs with working brakes. Find a junction block and put in a plug.

My level of knowledge (or I dare say 'risk') may be higher than some.

 

[Heavysteven]

drive a deuce with a leaking wheel cylinder

 

[paulfarber]

No, you do not want to drive with a leaking cylinder. Thats why you PLUG THE LEAK. I have several TMs and even Army Motors articles.. not the MVPA rubbish, the real one that list 'field expedient' repairs.

Its simple hydraulics, not magic.

If it was on a steer wheel then I would cap it so the entire steer axle was 'out'.

While most brake systems are biased more front than rear brake (to intentionally understeer the vehicle) as long as you are aware of the issue and its only a temp fix run it.

My jeep (42gpw) even in top condition has a horrible brake induced turn due to the design.. I am aware of it and know to compensate.. no way a modern vehicle would be allowed on the road with the same setup.

I bet that most M35s have such poorly adjusted shoes that if half the shoes were actually braking I would be surprised.

 

[Stan Leschert]

Unless you know exactly what you are doing....THE ANSWER IS NO!!! Do not drive. Get an experienced driver or have it shipped. If all else fails, get it stored, and learn real fast.

With a truck this big, bad things happen real fast. There is a reason why military qualification courses are not a 1 day event... even for an upgrade!


Listen to whom ever you want, but try to find a voice of experience to guide your choice.

Just my thoughts, but I've been there, and I am rather glad for the training that I had.
I wish that I had the opportunity to get more!

 

[paulfarber]

Of course if you have any doubts then tow/haul it.

I've driven my CCKW (think M35 without the diesel engine, and crappier brakes) so I have a few miles under my belt in a very similar vehicle.

I don't think that CCKWs/M35s are horrible to drive. I have been in lifted passenger type trucks that have worse rides/visibility and no one ever questions all the mods to them.

If you are going to live in fear of brake failure then owning an MV is probably a bad choice. They need CONSTANT attention (none of those fancy pants automatic break adjuster) and you have to actually service the thing at every start.

That said, if I was driving along and noticed an issue I would correct it (believe it or not, short of a catastrophic system failure like a snapped crank) most issues can be solved 'in the field' with reasonable safety to get you back... thats why MVs are lacking on creature comforts... more parts = more things to break.

Lastly, short of a deport rebuild you can 'kick the tires' all day long but if a line snaps, a seal fails, or a component breaks its gonna break. Heck even in 2010 with the latest CNC and Robotic assembly techniques cars will break right off the lot... even when there are computers to monitor every system critical to operation... if that parts wants to break, it will.

 

[velociT]

the truck is not a GL. it is off ebay and very driveable.

I know what truck you're talking about.

It's my truck's brother. It's probably gonna need a little of this and that. I'd have it shipped.

If you do drive it, put some fresh oil in it before driving at 2k+ rpms for hours on end.

 

[EdMontana]

 

[paulfarber]

I know what truck you're talking about.

It's my truck's brother. It's probably gonna need a little of this and that. I'd have it shipped.

If you do drive it, put some fresh oil in it before driving at 2k+ rpms for hours on end.

One reason I didn't buy from a private seller (or flipper). You paid more than what a GL truck would cost plus you STILL have to service it, and STILL have to haul it.

Good luck with your truck.

 

[Baja Tom]

I picked my M35 in South Dakota and drove to Long Beach Ca. With the same inexperience as you and had a ball after I ran out of gas on the first tank in the middle of nowhere. Mine had 17,000 miles and ran great but only at 50 MPH. P.S. My drive was in August with good weather. The duece only gets 9 miles to the gallon and was expensive to drive but the experience will be unforgetable.