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What to look for in a prospective m1008?

iacucv

Member
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Spencer, IA
Well tomorrow night I will probably be taking a 3 hour drive after work to check out a supposedly rust free m1008 with 34k, new hydro boost steering box 2 alternators and some other stuff including aluminum wheels and 32in BF AT/Kos. Sounds good but he is asking a pretty good price, but it is a good looking truck. I want this to be my daily driver to and from work, after Doghead mod, etc. So I know the typical work that will need to be done and I would like to eventually but a built 700r4 in it, and I can get WMO for 40 cents a gallon at work, so what do I need to look for? What do I look for on inspection other than diesel, antifreeze, etc in the oil, burnt tranny fluid, body I have covered being a former body guy. Also I plan to drive her home the 3 hours, what speed should I keep her at with 32s? Guy said he drove it home 3.5 hours when he bought it so it should make it. What do I need to know that I haven't already read/searched here? Thanks fellas!
 
481
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Location
Charlotte, MI
I am about as far from an expert on these trucks as you can get, but I also drove 3 hours to pick one up sight unseen a few days ago. I test drove two of them while there. The one that looked better had a sloppy shifting trans and even sloppier steering but started and ran nice. The other truck likes to chirp the tires when shifting and the steering is tight so I chose that one. I figured if the truck starts well cold, runs well, shifts and drives well it's probably ok for the drive after checking fluids.

I kept mine at 50-55 with 31" tires on it's maiden voyage. I still keep it under 60 until the tire change. a 4" lift is already in the works so I can use taller tires on this beast since I need to drive it to the lake on occasion which is 100 miles away. It's a long drive at 50 mph. :) If you have a 3 hour drive you should be able to do that on a half tank or so of diesel.

Now I had better look into the relay mod and figure out what's up with that.

Mike
 
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Recovry4x4

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Rust and chopped up wiring are the main issues. Speed. MPG is much better at 50 vs 55 but it runs fine at 55. I've run 65 for a few hundred miles at a time.
 

islandguydon

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You said the truck is a 1008 correct...? I would bet it has a 6.2 diesel. The 6.2 is not a multi fuel engine. You mentioned WMO. I would run that in a deuce not a cucv. Maybe 1 gallon to the 20 but thats it, same for ATF. Just making sure you are aware its not the multi-fuel.
 

73m819

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That the TETHER has not been ripped off
 
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iacucv

Member
153
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Location
Spencer, IA
Whats the tether? I guess I was reading about the deuces when I saw the multi fuel oh well I drive about 10 miles to work is all and my current truck only gets about 14 mpg.
 

iacucv

Member
153
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Location
Spencer, IA
Bought the m1008. I love it! I know I paid on the high end but there was a very significant amount of money in new parts on the truck, no rust whatsoever, just a good clean truck. Made the 3 hour (well about 3 1/2 in CUCV) drive just fine and drove it to work today. I will probably work on a trans swap, weighing options right now. I do need to get a radio put in which is cake work, and do the Doghead mod. Glad to be part of those that appreciate what these rigs are! Already got lots of compliments at work.
 

Warthog

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Congrats. Watch where you hook up the radio. Also disconnect both batteries before you attempt the install. A few members have fried some wiring doing an install.
 

iacucv

Member
153
1
18
Location
Spencer, IA
Don't believe so. The guy I bought it from was and old GM truck fan, had several mud runners and mud racers and bought the truck to convert. Decided to use it for towing since it was too nice to chop and then decided to sell it instead and finance a project using a less pretty base. Glad he made that decision!

Warthog - I will get that voltage meter working! I've done plenty of stereo work in civy vehicles just never needed the volt meter. I've been lurking for the past couple weeks and learned tons.

One question - I read someone said to put some ATF or hydro fluid in the diesel (not alot, maybe a gallon on a full tank) and it will clean out/smooth out the IP. True, false, silly, waste of time, or just asking for problems? Runs great right now and fires right up, just want to prevent any IP problems.
 

sierrajcharlie

New member
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Farmersburg, Iowa
There was a study on here awhile back comparing additives. It was pretty interesting. Right now I'm adding some 2 cycle oil from Wally at 200:1. (more or less) They say the diesel now a days doesn't have as good lubricating properties as fuel in 84, that's why you need to add something. I talked to a guy in Strawberry awhile back, they had just sold their 1008 and he said that thing would go ANYWHERE you had guts enough to drive it! Yup, the fuse panel has both 12 and 24 volt spots available, (switched) test lights hate the 24 spots. A voltmeter is a much better plan!
 

cucv1833

Member
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Location
Lake Charles, LA
nopics

I will get that voltage meter working! I've done plenty of stereo work in civy vehicles just never needed the volt meter. I've been lurking for the past couple weeks and learned tons.

One question - I read someone said to put some ATF or hydro fluid in the diesel (not alot, maybe a gallon on a full tank) and it will clean out/smooth out the IP. True, false, silly, waste of time, or just asking for problems? Runs great right now and fires right up, just want to prevent any IP problems.
I add the recommended dose of little Power Service Diesel Clean or 1- pint of 2-stroke oil with every fill up.

Yup, the fuse panel has both 12 and 24 volt spots available, (switched) test lights hate the 24 spots. A voltmeter is a much better plan!
Heres the fuse panel pic. I believe the 24v spot is on the bottom left. I have my radio on the Ign on spot and my CB and other 12v items on a seperate fuse panel.
 

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