Whats the secret for split rims?

[Towman2277]

Sledge hammers do work best, with soapy water, and two big arms, shady place, etc!!!

 

[wpzimmer]

I have all the tire tools including a good slide hammer. Lube like soap solution is a must. Even with a slide hammer, unseating a tire bead can be an awful lot of work. My motto, and one that has served me well is: Never do more work that you have to.

One really useful tool that I bought is a device called a "Bead Cheetah". I got mine from Gemplers for about $140. It fastens to the wheel rim and you turn it with a big ratchet and socket or a big powerful electric drill. Takes a few turns but it pops the tires right off the bead. Works well on big tires like the 11x20's and agricultural tractor tires. A lot less work than a slide hammer or duckbill.

Another bit of advice. Use a mounting lube like Freylube when reassembling the wheel. It helps prevent rim rust, makes the tire seat easier and makes it alot easier to get off next time. And believe me, there will be a next time.

WZ

 

[sermis]

I've had better luck with the duckbill hammer than the slide hammer. Soap and hammer away moving a couple of inches each time as you go. I have used grinders and sawsall as the last resort. Even used a cutting torch before, lots and lots of black smoke.

NEVER, NEVER, NEVER STAND OVER WHILE AIRING UP. 70 PSI IS MORE THAN ENOUGH TO TAKE YOUR HEAD OFF.

I have never had a ring come off but I clean very well, lube the bead, and make sure the bead is up all the way as I go. I have seen a C purling cut in half and a large hole in the roof from a flying ring.

 

[Jones]

One thing to ALWAYS take the time to do is to clean any rust or built up gunk off of the lock ring and out of the groove the ring seats/locks into. A little bit of junk there will allow the lock ring to ramp up out of the groove---often when you're well on your way to max inflation pressure. Even in a safety cage, a tire letting go is a cause for a trip home for clean panties.

 

[rmgill]

Seems like a good PM task when doing these wheels is to strip the rims, lightly blast them to get off rust and to prime and re-paint them. Going at the bead with a bit of blast media might be a good idea no? Really clean it up and get it clear of rust or other problems.

 

[emmado22]

Thats the plan RM.. Get the tires off, blast, prime, and paint. Then put tires on.

 

[rdixiemiller]

Always a good idea. Over the years I have seen a few wheels that had rusted out around the valve stem slot. Once, on an ancient Studebaker wheel, I had to weld in a little patch to keep the tube from blowing. I don't weld on cracks in wheels, but this area can be safely welded if you know what you are doing. I wouldn't have bothered if it wasn't so hard to find another wheel. 5 lug Stude 20" rims are scarce!

 

[WillWagner]

OK, I'm a tad ...how you say...SCARED TO DEATH.. of split rims. I can handle standing 5 inches friom an engine making 600 HP, but the tire thing wigs me out. Is it safe to stand on top of the tire, with no air in it and pound on the tire to take it off??? Is the only dangerous part airing it up?

 

[Recovry4x4]

No air, no problem! They haunt me too. I've done a couple of mounts and aired them up from a distance and let them sit for a week before moving them.

 

[rdixiemiller]

Perfectly safe to stand on top and break the bead down. No air pressure! If you properly seat the ring before you air up the tire, you will be fine. I am a believer in using a safety cage when inflating the tire. Barring that, put the tire on the dirt, ring down, and use a 50' hose with a clip on adapter.
The only wheels I have ever seen let go had badly bent rings from improper removal, the wrong rings (extremely dangerous), or the ring was not properly seated when re-assembling.
If you are worried, take the wheels to a truck stop. they have the tools and experience.

 

[bottleworks]

I have posted an OSHA written procedure for mounting and dismounting Split rim wheels. It's a 7 page PDF with pictures. The article is waiting to be approved in the 'Technical Articles' section...

 

[Scrounger]

I’m somewhat surprised by the fear of split ring wheels. I’ve broken down and put together more split rings than I care to think of. I use three wedges and a sledge hammer to service them. I’ll have to get some pictures, but I use three wedges that are only 4X4 angle iron 5/16” thick and 4” long. I place them along the bead, place my foot on one side of the angle iron and hit the other side. Just go in secession one, two, three, one, two, three till the bead breaks, then work around the wheel. I’ve never needed anything else.
Then I use a split ring tool to remove the ring.
To re-inflate I fill the tube with enough air to hold it in place till the tube protector is in. Then put the wheel back together.
The things I have found to be most important is not to mix and match wheels and rings.
Clean the wheel and ring of dirt and rust.
Make sure the split in the ring is opposite the valve stem and that the ring is properly seated in the groove.
Make sure that the valve stem core is out when first inflating a tire to seat the bead. In case one has to deflate the tire if there is a problem.
If a cage is not available, i.e., if on the road mount the wheel on the truck. By using duals and the rear axle the ring is between the tires.
And use a clip-on chuck with a long air line.

 

[FreightTrain]

Well,Our wheels ain't split rims.They are Split Ring Rims.Some what safer than true split rims but still not something to take lightly.When I go to install some new rubber on my truck I am gonna use the truck as a safety Cage.Maybe do the outside duals first and park the truck on top while I am airing them up and letting them Sit.....

 

[rmgill]

How much rust is too much rust on the rims/ring seating area?

 

[williamh]

I've had better luck with the duckbill hammer than the slide hammer.

the first set of tires (7) i did with a hammer with that .. then i got the slide hammer .. way more fun and a lot less wasted time hitting the rim or ring .. ill go with the slide hammer and a couple of pry bars any day ... and as for standing over the tire .. no friggin way !! safety cage or chain the rim/ring minimum ...


just my 2c.

 

[DDoyle]

Twenty-five years ago I worked in a heavy truck shop - and got all the experience I'll ever want changing big tires. For me, the current procedure is haul tire to Coop or truck tire shop, sit in airconditioned waiting room until they announce they are done!

Seriously, a duckbill tire hammer is much better than a regular sledge, and a tire cage (or similar safety procedure is a must) - if you have any doubts at all, its worth the money to take at least one to a pro and watch how its done. Watch closely, 'cause the old heads will do this in less time than it would take me to type the procedure out. Remember this when sweating over more at home!

Best,
David Doyle

 

[rmgill]

I have three rims apart, wire brushed and then I'm going to media blast them down to bare metal and then shoot them with primer. I've flaps and tires, I just need to go get tubes. I found a shop that has them for $15 each which seems reasonable. I'll be mounting them up sometime this weekend after the rims are painted properly and cured. I should be able to do 4 wheels at a time and then get the rear's flipped when I do the bearing service. I figure I'll make things easier by leaving the grease in the house for a few days making it warmer and easier to work with when I go to lube the front knuckles.