Wheel Identification

[bigboy44]

Can someone tell me what does this wheel fit. I would also like to know how hard is it to remove the tires from this rim and install them on M939 series rims. Any suggestions will be appreciated. Any suggestions for balancing, golf balls, beads ect.

I would like to know how the Military determines when tires are surplused, do they store them inside, do the date codes have a part in them? Reason being these tires are brand new with no weather looking damage and the date codes are 3208.

Thanks Warren

 

[bigboy44]

I forgot the Pic.

 

[gimpyrobb]

Those are mrap rims. No, there is no rhyme or reason to how they are stored. I know the GL lot near me keeps tires outside.

 

[gringeltaube]

Yes, that wheel will fit on MRAP's and/ or any other truck with the "European" hub-centered, 10-bolt pattern (= 10 holes on a 335mm-bolt circle).

Those tires (and wheels) seem to be in very good shape! From how the bolts look I think they have been stored inside. I see no problem to use a 2008-manuf.-tire even if it has spent all its life outdoors.

It should be very easy to disassemble that wheel and mount the tire on the 10-inch wide 5ton wheels (M939A1 and -A2.
For best balancing there are many possible ways, all already discussed here...


G.




Moved thread...

 

[bigboy44]

gringleltaube, I have read lots of threads on the balancing, I was trying to get some advise on what works the best. I guess I worded it wrong. I also wanted to hear from someone who has done this before that could give me some pointers to make it as easy as possible. I do know to start by letting the air out of the tire.
Thanks

 

[gringeltaube]

That, your last sentence, it could almost be taken as sarcasm, or...???

Good, if you have read all my posts about (statically)balancing..., then you know what I would tell you works best...
I just don't want to be repetitive, that's all. Also, not everyone is into building his own "balancing machine"... Glad to assist with that if wanted.

And yes, if you mean mounting 395's on super single 5-ton wheels, I have done it, many times.... that's why I said its easy.
(And of course, we assume everyone understands the basics of it....)
Now, the whole swap could be a bit more tricky though, if you decided not to re-use the run-flats that (I believe) do come with these MRAP tires/wheels...
So far, I have only pulled run-flats out of HMMWV-tires....


G.

 

[bigboy44]

gringltaube, I did not make the comment to be sarcastic just a simple statement. I appreciate all the help. Again thank you Sir. Now maybe you can help me with another thing, I have mounted and dismounted a few tires in my time but not with run-flats, if they are in the TM's to you direct me to their location. And to be honest I have never seen the run flats much less dealt with them.
Thanks

 

[gringeltaube]

OK, OK...

See this thread... and eventually contact Gimpyrobb. He claims he's done it.
Here is another thread, with pics from Barrman... Many ways to skin a cat...

If I had to remove those 395-inserts I would proceed exactly as with the smaller HMMWV parts: simply pull them out with a chainfall and the tire secured to a tree, for example. Especially when the rubber is warm and flexible (leave them out in the sun for a while!) and all surfaces have been well lubed this is a "child's play"; they just pop out, and no damage to either parts.


G.

 

[MWMULES]

It really depends on which style of run flat is in there, here's a couple of threads that might help.
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?94738-Run-flats-on-a-deuce
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?16127-20-quot-beadlock-runflat-inserts
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?102510-Need-advice-on-mounting-395s-with-runflats

 

[juanprado]

Warren,

I have taken 3 aluminum mraps apart and they are pretty easy to diss-assemble. Nuts just spun off with a 110v impact. Easier with another person to pull tire off. I used a long crowbar and a rock bar to ease the rim off the tire. I did also a het wheel and those studs were a work out and super tight.

Now the run flats are a different story. I did not try to remove those 100lb solid rubber doughnuts. I figured I was going to save the tire and reuse them so why pull them apart. They look like a bear to remove since they fit deep into the tire and the bead/sidewall would need to be flexed a good bit to give you clearance. If you are using the tire, I would also reuse the runflat especially for the front.

 

[bigboy44]

Warren,

I have taken 3 aluminum mraps apart and they are pretty easy to diss-assemble. Nuts just spun off with a 110v impact. Easier with another person to pull tire off. I used a long crowbar and a rock bar to ease the rim off the tire. I did also a het wheel and those studs were a work out and super tigh

Now the run flats are a different story. I did not try to remove those 100lb solid rubber doughnuts. I figured I was going to save the tire and reuse them so why pull them apart. They look like a bear to remove since they fit deep into the tire and the bead/sidewall would need to be flexed a good bit to give you clearance. If you are using the tire, I would also reuse the runflat especially for the front.

Juan,

I was going to call you but I lost your phone #, I knew you could tell me what kind of rims they were! I read all the threads from above and just came back in from looking at the tires and don't think they will be a problem. I got the tractor and the trackhoe to fall back on. I plan on putting the tires on 6x6's and set the tire and rim on then with a 6x6 on top and push down with the trackhoe bucket they should pop right out. Please send me your # so I can put it back in my phone. Thanks

 

[bigboy44]

gringeltaube, MWMULES, Juan,

Thanks so much for leading me in the right direction! One more thing I noticed, what do I use to get the valve stem out with they are bigger than a regular valve stem.
Thanks

 

[juanprado]

I can't help there. The 24 bolt aluminum rims have a regular short valve that screws into the face of the rim and has a regular sized shrader valve.

 

[WRMorrison]

If you're talking about the valve core and not the actual stem, then there's a core removal tool for them. Available at your local truck supply store; they're just like the normal core removers...only bigger.

My steel MRAP wheels didn't have valve cores in them; they connected to the CTIS and were hollow.

-WRM

 

[pctrans]

You can also use a big block or standard truck brake drum to hold the rim up. Couple pops with a sledge and the tire will drop off. If my computer starts to work properly later, I can post some pics.

 

[pctrans]

Hoipefully this works...

 

[gimpyrobb]

Its a shame the MRAP rims don't work on the 5ton bolt pattern, they come assembled on the rim balanced and ready to go. Now your going to have to re-do the balancing, what a PITA!

 

[bigboy44]

Its a shame the MRAP rims don't work on the 5ton bolt pattern, they come assembled on the rim balanced and ready to go. Now your going to have to re-do the balancing, what a PITA!

Gimp, That would be too easy!

 

[juanprado]

Hoipefully this works...

That sure beats a crowbar and rock bar with my son on the ground.....

I can see now how the conversation would go with the wife: "I need a wrecker to change my tires......