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When should the GEN 2 Light be on? M1009

Dispatcher7

Member
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Location
Pittstown, NY
If you have seen any of my prior post you know I just got my first M1009. Drove it fro Ohio to New York last weekend. Well the GEN Gauge did not work when we picked it up from prior owner, and the GEN 2 light also does not come on. So today I did a lot of reading on here and did some testing and made some changes. The GEN Gauge did not have the resistor on the back of it. Fortunately I had a spare GEN Gauge given to me form another member on here. I installed it and still nothing. I then relocated the GEN 1 light bulb to the GEN 2 spot still nothing. Back to the computer and more research on here. Thats when I learned about Fuse 12. Well it was 20 amp, not 10 amp, and it was blown. So I replaced it with a new 10 amp fuse. Started the truck and the GEN Gauge came to life, slowly moving to the green zone. Still no GEN 2 light. Being it is 12 degrees outside I will try again relocating some bulbs tomorrow.

Anything else I am missing?

Any trick to removing the exciter connector from the back of the GEN's?

Picking up a new multi meter tomorrow so I can check voltage.

As I assume GEN 2 was not charging the rear battery, I'm very thankful I made it home. Lost count of how many times I have started the truck with no GEN gauge.

Thanks for all of the help.
 

Keith_J

Well-known member
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Location
Schertz TX
A multimeter should be in every tool box. It will tell you more than the stock voltmeter.
The alternator regulator connection with the two wires? There is a latch on the front.

Follow the alternator test procedure sticky on the top of this forum.

The most likely cause of your problems would be the generator 2 relay. Appendix E9 in the -34 TM shows this circuit. It switches the generator on when the key is on, providing 24 volts to the brown wire on the regulator connection.
 

Dispatcher7

Member
30
24
8
Location
Pittstown, NY
A multimeter should be in every tool box. It will tell you more than the stock voltmeter.
The alternator regulator connection with the two wires? There is a latch on the front.

Follow the alternator test procedure sticky on the top of this forum.

The most likely cause of your problems would be the generator 2 relay. Appendix E9 in the -34 TM shows this circuit. It switches the generator on when the key is on, providing 24 volts to the brown wire on the regulator connection.
Thanks Keith. Following those sticky’s is what has gotten me this far. Picking up the MM later today and will post updates.
 

Keith_J

Well-known member
3,657
1,323
113
Location
Schertz TX
The Hazard Fraught DVM is adequate, no need to buy a yellow oddball one for 500 doll hairs. I have two Klein DVMs, I had to get a clamp type to measure current and it served me well over our Valentines Day blizzard when power was out for days.
 

Dispatcher7

Member
30
24
8
Location
Pittstown, NY
Thanks Keith. Following those sticky’s is what has gotten me this far. Picking up the MM later today and will post updates.
Keith, or anyone,
Where is the GEN 2 relay and diode? I have three relays on the bottom of the dash right above throttle pedal. I assume one of them is the GEN 2 relay? Unless everything is very dirty the wire colors don't look right. One of them is a metal can and the other two are plastic.The metal one is on driver side of the three and has 24 volts on the red wire, nothing on the two smaller wires.
 

Curtisje

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Okinawa, Japan
The metal can is the starter relay. One of the other two plastic relays goes to the volt meter I believe.
 
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