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Where are the Circuit Breaker's in the M35A3?

Freight Dog

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Forest Lake, MN
Hi All,
I recently had an expensive 15 minute ride in my M35A3.
The first sign of trouble was when the left head light flashed and blew out. I just thought it was the bulb failing so I drove on.
After a few minutes, I looked at my volt meter and saw that it was pegged to the right side (Green). It was an over-voltage! My Alternator was having a nervous break-down.

IF THIS HAPPENS TO YOU, SHUT YOUR TRUCK DOWN IMMEDIATELY!!!

I didn't want to get stranded out in the country so I drove on for about ten minutes. I didn't think to turn off as many electrical demand items as I could :-(
Obviously the truck should have been shut down then and there.
Since I kept on going for a few minutes, here is what happened.

1.) The water temperature indicator pegged out, blew the face out toward the passenger seat and caught fire.

2.) All the lights that where on, blew out...markers, head lights, tail lights, etc.

3.) The CTIS controller took a voltage spike and was out of business.

4.) Fuel quantity, Tachometer, Transmission Temp... all inop.

5.) The exciting part was when the rear battery exploded!

At that point things had become a bit too sporting for me and I shut the master switch off, coasted down a lonely road. Forward visibility is limited when you are leaning over to blow the fire out in the water temp gauge.

Yes, I am the poster child for:
" If you're going to be dumb, You've got to be tough!"

With my truck stranded out in the country, it sat for a few days.
I finally refinanced my house and bought a couple of new, "Optima Red Tops" to replace my destroyed batteries.

The first thing I did was did was disconnect the alternator output wires, start the Cat diesel with the new batteries and limp home on batteries only.

At least that saved a towing fee!

Now, with my olive drab disaster sitting in the driveway, I had time to consider the scavenger hunt for parts and repair phase.

Erik of "ERIK'S", was VERY kind and helpful. He had the light bulbs, gauges, alternator and belt that I needed. He even sent me a very useful, "Electrical Schematic". I didn't have that one in my TM, CD. He also went out in his shop and took pictures of the new style alternator so that when I replaced my old one with the new version I wouldn't wire it wrong.
I'm sure you all know the 50/50 Rule.
"If you have two choices on where to put a wire, it's 90% likely you will choose the wrong one!"

There are two things I hate in the world! It's electricity and snakes.
We don't have many bad snakes here in Minnesota but I sure got, "Bit" by this A3 electrical system!

My Central Tire Inflation System worked really well before the voltage spike. It's, "controller" was not very happy about it. I contacted the company, CM Automotive,Inc., regarding the purchase of a new one. They said they would sell me one but the price was $1800.00. I said I would have to pass on that. My wife was not very pleased about the $440. alternator! Can you imagine her delight if I told her I needed another couple of thousand bucks.
I contacted the inventor of the CTIS System and owner of CM Automotive.
I explained my situation and he told me to send the unit back to the company. They ran it through a thorough diagnostic check and replaced two Motorola Chips, internally. I just got it back a few days ago. NO CHARGE!!!
I read a lot of negatives, on Steel Soldiers, with reference to the CTIS system on the A3's. If they are not working, it is only because the operator's lack a proper understanding of the system. It is an excellent system!
Go to the source. Contact CM Automotive if you are having some difficulties.
I was treated with great kindness, courtesy and unusual generosity.

I have replaced most of the inop components and wanted to relate the story so that you might avoid the same potential problems.

I would like to know where the Circuit Breakers are located in the M35A3.
I would really appreciate it if someone could respond to this thread and tell me where to look for them.

Thanks, Freight Dog
 

marchplumber

Well-known member
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WOW! Thanks for the write up. I REALLY like my A2 right now, for looks and function. Glad that CM was helpful and courteous! Always a great start after a disaster. (How'd the fire in the cab go? Use your fire ext?) Your wife must be close to "saint hood". Hang on to her! LOL
God bless,

Tony=)
 

MWMULES

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No one is answering Freight Dog's Question. I don't have an A3 but on the M35A2 and M818 they are on the cab side of the fire wall. They don't look anything like a civi circuit breaker. here's the pic's. They look more like a union for 2 wires, 1 is 15 amp, 2 is a 20.
 

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Freight Dog

New member
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1
0
Location
Forest Lake, MN
Thank-You MWMULES! I'll go hunt those down.
I promised to drive the truck for a disabled Veterans get together on August 20.
I've still got a few things to repair.

Thanks for the encouragement guys!!!
The instrument fire was extinguished when I removed the electricity, leaned over with a deep breath and blew hard!

2 years into the truck, my wife was warming up to it...this might be a little set back :)
 

sierra117

Member
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18
Location
Isanti, MN
If you are in need for more parts you might be able to get them from the guy I got my a3 from he is a member here on SS I believe his SS handle is tie6044 he is in Blaine MN if you want get a hold of him I have his cell pm me if you want it otherwise you can try and pm him directly. Good luck with the repairs
 

mikew

Member
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Location
edmond, ok
I've only worked on one A3 and if I recall they are mounted on the dash support (dash to firewall) under the steering column.
 

NDT

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Camp Wood/LC, TX
The 3 lever or pushbutton light switch also has a circuit breaker inside. Thanks for the write-up of your experience. This could happen to anyone experiencing a "runaway" alternator failure.
 

Freight Dog

New member
50
1
0
Location
Forest Lake, MN
Hi All,
The responses from everyone were really helpful. Whether it was just moral support or
actual pictures/suggestions for finding the Circuit breakers, I really appreciated the feed back.
I am happy to report that almost everything is functioning normally.
The new alternator hums along like a dynamo from a hydro-electric dam. (Looks big enough to be from one) I put the new batteries in square adapter’s that fit in the battery compartment just like the square ones do. (From OD Iron: Optima 6TL Adapter, Model Numbers 6160--01-453)
The Tach, Transmission Temperature gauge and Fuel quantity Gauge are still inop but that’s only a temporary, minor inconvenience.
The rebuilt CTIS Controller that CM Automotive sent back to me, gratis, still does not work. The lights in the display don’t even illuminate. That is why I wanted to find out if/where the CB’s are because maybe they are the source of power. I will try Mike W’s suggestion tomorrow and look for them under the steering column area. I did find a CB on the firewall, driver’s side. They look just like the pictures MWMULE posted. Thanks for that!!!

Here is what I needed from Eriks:

1 Alternator 28V 60 Amp, AMA5104UT $440. Presolite, Improved Over the old Leece -Neville, alternator.

1 M35A3 Alt Mount, 1-12448643 $130. Most of the A3 alternator mounts are cracked on the trucks. This is possibly what caused the failure of my Leece-Neville Alternator. They are three pieces, welded together. They crack at the welds! Erik’s are fabricated out of one piece of bar stock with an additional arm that bolts to the engine block…worth every penny!!!

1 Fan Belt, 12448759 $32.00

1 Temp Gauge $39.00

1 Head Light 24 V, 8741491 $30.00 Besides the Head light, I needed a supply of 1683’s, 1251’s and 1829’s (total for bulb replacement: $71.78)

2 ft. 0 AWG, M13486/1-14 $9.70

2 Ring Terminal, 7056732 $7.50

1 Positive battery clamp, MS75004-1 $4.25

1 Negative battery clamp, MS75004-2 $4.25

So my ride was a bit expensive that day. It was still cheaper than the psycho therapy I would need if I didn’t have my truck. Thanks Guys, Freight Dog

Repair references were from TM 9-2320-386-24-1-1 Pages 1-5 and TM 9-2320-386-24-1-2
 

Ferroequinologist

Resident railroad expert
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Liberty Hill, SC
I had this happen to me in a A2 coming home from the 07 East Coast Convoy. Luckly, the wire on the alt just burned off before it really damanged anything. It wasn't crimped well and that saved a lot of stuff.
 

Tow4

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Orlando, FL
I have an A2 and had the (sense?) wire to the alternator come off on the way back from the GA rally last year. Same thing, the volt meter pegged over voltage. I shut off the master switch and drove about 20 miles to a rest area and soldered a new connector on. No damage.
 

dittle

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Albia, IA
The breakers are thermal overload and self-reset. Its possible you cooked them all the way through before they opened.
 

jwright

New member
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0
Location
Freeman Mo
Ya I drove an a2 without any batt. and it blew every light bulb that was turned on and even the turn single flasher auaaua
It melted the voltage reg and blew some of the connectors apart inside the alt

Lesson learned never run an a2 without batts with the main switch turned on!!!!!
 

Orionspath

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Location
Northern Virginia
Circuit breakers.......cont

No one is answering Freight Dog's Question. I don't have an A3 but on the M35A2 and M818 they are on the cab side of the fire wall. They don't look anything like a civi circuit breaker. here's the pic's. They look more like a union for 2 wires, 1 is 15 amp, 2 is a 20.
That's a first. Is Left 15a and Right 20a? where located on fire wall inside cab? Thanks for this information!
 

3dAngus

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Perry, Ga.
Reference TM 9-2320-386-24-1-1 manual
Page 0278 00-3/4 for location of circuit breakers for both alternator and heater.
Located on firewall, in front of driver. Accessible from inside engine compartment.
Looks like one of them might be gotten to from inside the cab.

I was unable to copy the page and paste. Gotta figure out how to do that. Sorry. Pictures and data is available there for dismantling, or removal and replacement.

Excellent thread Freight Dog. Thanks!
 
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