where to find 12 volt power

[paraclete comes]

OK so i need to find 12 volt power to run a few sockets, anyone know where and which wire? I have an m1009 and there are no busbars in the cab i have seen yet. Im trying not to go straight from the battery through the fire wall to save work if i dont need to.

also i have searched several times and googled but what comes up seems to be the conversion info. please forgive me if this is obviuosly posted elsewhere. i also plan on grabbing a busbar from a junk truck, any suggestions on where to set that up with power

 

[Dr.Jay]

There are several 12 volt sockets located in the fuse block under the dash for accessories. Note that One is 24 volts. Use a good multimeter to test the output voltage of these sockets prior to installing any accessory taps.
While at the at the junk yard cannibalize a fuse block from a like year gm vehicle. Several models of cars and trucks had factory wire taps in these sockets that you can use. They plug directly into the fuse block, and will lock in position.

Be sure to use an appropriately rated fuse inline for your accessory, as the ports in the fuse block may not be fused.
Check the wiring schematics in the TM if you are not sure if the ports are fused or not.

 

[idM1028]

I think the first place I would try is the underhood 12 volt junction block (see pic). From what I understand, the in cab bus bars on the M1009's were situated on the sidewall of the truck around the passenger side rear seat and were put there to provide a source of power for military radios. Also, unless the truck has already been converted to 12 volt, that bus bar is going to be 24 volt.

 

[11Echo]

OK so i need to find 12 volt power to run a few sockets, anyone know where and which wire? I have an m1009 and there are no busbars in the cab i have seen yet. Im trying not to go straight from the battery through the fire wall to save work if i dont need to.

also i have searched several times and googled but what comes up seems to be the conversion info. please forgive me if this is obviuosly posted elsewhere. i also plan on grabbing a busbar from a junk truck, any suggestions on where to set that up with power

Seen this posted before.

 

[cucv1833]

OK so i need to find 12 volt power to run a few sockets, anyone know where and which wire? I have an m1009 and there are no busbars in the cab i have seen yet. Im trying not to go straight from the battery through the fire wall to save work if i dont need to.

What kind of electrical items to you plan on running?
The above pictures are good places to get 12v power

Running a wire from the front batt. inside the truck will only take 10min with a few zip ties and connectors.

The only thing I have connected to the stock fuse block is my power wire for stereo. I ran a new 10ga wire from the front batt. + . That wire is connected to a seperate fuse block for all extra 12 volt items. So i dont have to worry about overloading or damaging the stock fuse/juntion block

 

[paraclete comes]

What kind of electrical items to you plan on running?
The above pictures are good places to get 12v power

Running a wire from the front batt. inside the truck will only take 10min with a few zip ties and connectors.

The only thing I have connected to the stock fuse block is my power wire for stereo. I ran a new 10ga wire from the front batt. + . That wire is connected to a seperate fuse block for all extra 12 volt items. So i dont have to worry about overloading or damaging the stock fuse/juntion block

I plan on running two 12 volt sockets for stuff like cell phones, etc. I also need to wire up my CB eventually, so maybe adding an additional fuse box is not a bad idea. Will be sure to get a few pieces at the junk yard today.

Thanks so much for all the useful information guys.

 

[Warthog]

Do you want the power full time? When the key is on? Or controlled by the ACC position?

And yes we have covered this many times in the past.

The CUCV is different than the civvy units in that the fusebox layout and control is different.

 

[paraclete comes]

Warthog,

can you suggest a better way to search that ss google? Or maybe link one if you happen to have it, sorry to repost on the same subject. But I want power preferable when the keys on, but full time would be ok. I just got the BUS bar and cleaned it all up and am going to buy cable today.

 

[dstang97]

One thing you could do is read the first 5 pages. Almost 99% percent of the time the answer is in there.

 

[Oldtruckdude]

Hi Everyone. I am new around here. Great info!
Sorry to drag up an old thread...but it deals with what I am trying to do.
I have an 1985 M1008 and want to install a stereo and also a 12 volt socket to charge my phone.
I have several questions I am hoping to get some clarification on.
I plan to run some new wires directly from the batteries to a fuse block inside the cab. The fuse block has both positive and negative connections.

1. What gauge wires should I run from the battery to the fuse block?
2. I know I get my positive off the front battery positive terminal. Do I pull the negative from the front battery negative terminal or the rear battery negative terminal?
3. Where is the best place to feed the wires through the firewall?
4. Any suggestions where best to mount the fuse block?

And then the last question that may be over my head... I realize the power to the new fuse block will always be on so therefore the stereo will always be on even if the car is not running (at least until I turn it off). Is there a way to hook it to the ignition?

Thank you so much in advance for your help!
Oldtruckdude

 

[Warthog]

From the CUCV Helpful Threads sticky

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?132309-CUCV-Fuse-Box-Layout

 

[Oldtruckdude]

From the CUCV Helpful Threads sticky

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?132309-CUCV-Fuse-Box-Layout

Thank you Warthog. Those are very useful. I have been contemplating for the last few weeks about running the stereo and 12 volt power plug off of the 3 slots controlled by circuit/fuse 15 on the stock fuse block. But I have read several places that "these trucks are old and you don't want to overload the stock fuse block". I have seen several threads about how people have run new power from the battery to a new fuse block and then pulled power from there.

Should I just pull the power from those 3 slots controlled by circuit/fuse 15? And if so, where do I get ground?

Or is it safer to run a power to a new fuse block and pull power from there? If so, all of my original questions are still valid.

Thank you for any assistance.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

I plan to run some new wires directly from the batteries to a fuse block inside the cab. The fuse block has both positive and negative connections.

Please explain what you mean by, "both positive and negative connections." It might help if you can post a picture of the fuse block you plan to use.

1. What gauge wires should I run from the battery to the fuse block?

Depends what you want to run. Wire gauge is determined by load and distance. We know the distance. Tell us the load and we can give you some guidance.

2. I know I get my positive off the front battery positive terminal. Do I pull the negative from the front battery negative terminal or the rear battery negative terminal?

Please explain a bit more. Are you looking for a place to attach a ground wire? You want to run a separate ground to your fuse box, or near it?

And then the last question that may be over my head... I realize the power to the new fuse block will always be on so therefore the stereo will always be on even if the car is not running (at least until I turn it off). Is there a way to hook it to the ignition?

Yep. Not difficult at all. There are two ways to do this.

1. Check your stereo wiring. Most modern stereos have a power wire and an ignition sense wire. The power wire would go to your new fusebox, and the ignition sense would go to the truck's fuse box, to a port that switches with the ignition. It's that simple.

2. Go ahead and run your fuse box with the power always on (fused near the battery connection, of course!). Then install a relay connected to the truck's fuse box, to a port that switches with the ignition. Use the relay to switch your stereo.

Unless it's a pretty old one, though, #1 is probably the option you want.

 

[Oldtruckdude]

Please explain what you mean by, "both positive and negative connections." It might help if you can post a picture of the fuse block you plan to use.

I have attached a picture of the fuse block I am going to use. It has a large post for a positive wire to come into it and a large post for a negative wire to come into it. Then it has slots for fuses and then places for both the negative and positive wire connections that will go out to the stereo and 12 volt socket.

So I will get the positive power from the front battery positive terminal and run a wire through the firewall into the cab where the new fuse block will be located. I was planning on running 6 gauge wire. Then do I run my negative wire from the negative terminal on the front battery or the negative terminal of the rear battery through the firewall to the new fuse block?

Depends what you want to run. Wire gauge is determined by load and distance. We know the distance. Tell us the load and we can give you some guidance.

I am only planning on running a small stereo...no amp...2 small speakers. And a single 12 volt power socket that will be used to charge a phone or ipod. I don't know how to figure out load. sorry.



Please explain a bit more. Are you looking for a place to attach a ground wire? You want to run a separate ground to your fuse box, or near it?

See the first question. I hope that answers it.

Where is the best place to run wires through the firewall from the battery to the new fuse block?

I have also included a picture of the stereo and 12 volt socket/lighter that I will be running off of the new fuse block.

I hope this helps


Yep. Not difficult at all. There are two ways to do this.

1. Check your stereo wiring. Most modern stereos have a power wire and an ignition sense wire. The power wire would go to your new fusebox, and the ignition sense would go to the truck's fuse box, to a port that switches with the ignition. It's that simple.

Ok I understand this and will do it. I will run the ignition sense wire to circuit #15 on the main fuse block.

See my notes in blue above.

Thank you for your time and help.

 

[Oldtruckdude]

Sorry that blue text is hard to read. I don't know how to change it now.

Here is a picture of the inside of the new fuse block. You can see it has a large + post and a large - post for power coming into it.

1. Where do I get the power?
2. What gauge wire?
3. How to get through the firewall

Thanks

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

Nice fuse block.

You've already got the idea for where to get the power and ground - front battery posts. But you'll need to fuse the hot lead out by the battery. See my Muddy Resistor Bypass thread (it's in the Helpful Stickies under, "Glow Plug Bypass") for info on that.


6 gauge is plenty for what you'll be doing, and for some future loads. I think that's a good choice. I also like the idea of having a separate ground available inside the cab. It's not strictly necessary, but it's not a bad thing at all. You can get custom cables made from a variety of places - see my Muddy thread for one good source. Measure carefully, then add 10%.

As for where to get through the firewall, I don't know. Haven't done it on mine. Maybe someone else can chime in.


If your new stereo has both a power lead and an ignition sense lead, you will be in great shape. Your power lead will go to your new fuse box, and the ignition sense lead will go to the truck's fuse box to a port there that is hot when the ignition is on.

If it has only a power lead, you'll still get power from your new fuse box, but you'll need to switch it with a relay which is triggered by an ignition-hot port on the truck's fuse box. Take a look at your radio's installation instruction to find out.

 

[Mainsail]

As for where to get through the firewall, I don't know. Haven't done it on mine. Maybe someone else can chime in.

Working from memory....

Open the driver's door and locate the hood release T-handle. Follow the cable to the firewall. Directly below that hole there should be a plastic disk about the size of a half-dollar; pull that out. Unless the rubber parts of your truck are all rotten, that should leave a rubber grommet behind.

Now open the hood and locate the release cable where it comes through the firewall, and directly below that you should see a black rubber nipple poking through the sheet metal; snip that off flush with the firewall using a razor or wire cutters. Now you've got a perfectly fitted grommet that should allow a 6 or 8 gauge wire to pass through snugly.