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Where to find a 24V Amp for stereo in M923A2?

Oldworldtenacity

Oldworldtenacity

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So, can you even buy a 24V amp for a stereo in these trucks??..as I was about to pull the trigger and buy a 24V head unit for 4 speakers and a Sub that requires an Amp...then my buddy is like...you may not be able to get a 24V amp.
 
Suprman

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I run power converters in my trucks for the radio and some gizmos. There are 24v amps available they are low quality and overpriced though.
 
Oldworldtenacity

Oldworldtenacity

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tim292stro said:
You may be looking in the wrong place. 24V is more common in Europe and the heavy truck and marine industries - including charter busses. Take a look at InterVox as an example (not affiliated, not an endorser).

Heck, Walmart has a 12/24V head unit for under $50.
Click to expand...
Well, I was going to buy the 24V Pyle head unit for 47 dollars until I realized it would be an issue finding a sufficient 24V amplifier.

I may be wrong, but the Intervox one you posted a link to has a seemingly really low output of only 70W..or am I misunderstanding the description??

The 12V amps I was looking at were 480W and 720W output. I would like to keep it all 24V though, but if I can't get a comparable Amp...it's a no go for me.
 
tim292stro

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Click the "marine" word in my last post, links to JL audio's marine offerings, be prepared for $1100 on a 5-channel amp.

You may want to look at the marine offerings from other vendors too. There are a lot more than what your friend might have thought (U.S. isn't a big 24V market)...

[EDIT:] My first job was in car stereo (and jeez, 20 years ago...) - 78 watts seems like it's too low, until you look at the efficiency number for the spears you're installing. Most have a number of 88db (or higher) @ 1Watt @ 1-meter @ 1kHz. Most of your power is going to be used by your low-end, where you are moving a significant volume of air. [/EDIT]
 
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Oldworldtenacity

Oldworldtenacity

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steelandcanvas said:
Google 24 volt dc to 12 volt dc, lots of choices on eBay and Amazon. Simple and straightforward installation.
Click to expand...
Ok, the problem I am having is that the install shop is telling me Ineed a converter that that has a 40amp fuse rating and all I can find online is a max of 30amp converters (720W Pyle converter).

why can I not find a 40amp??
 
tim292stro

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I prefer not using the 24V to 12V converters for something like audio where a butt-load of power is used - there are plenty of 24V "native" amplifiers available that will do exactly what you want.

As bear2112 points out, there are options in the same price ballpark as the converter+12VAmp method.

PLTA180

PLTA580

If you aren't finding 24V amps, you aren't looking hard enough. My 2cents
 
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Oldworldtenacity

Oldworldtenacity

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tim292stro said:
I prefer not using the 24V to 12V converters for something like audio where a butt-load of power is used - there are plenty of 24V "native" amplifiers available that will do exactly what you want.

As bear2112 points out, there are options in the same price ballpark as the converter+12VAmp method.

PLTA180

PLTA580

If you aren't finding 24V amps, you aren't looking hard enough. My 2cents
Click to expand...
Thanks for the links. I found a 24V amp, but it's output was not sufficient and it was $1000 dollars...so it wasn't an option. I could not find any other 24V amps on google other than that one.
 
tim292stro

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Sure.

If you're willing to "go custom" a bit, there are actually a ton of options out there. If you do the math, there is a certain power supply voltage range that will give you a specific power across a specific resistance/impedance (4-Ohms, very common in automotive speakers). If you do "simple math" by assuming DC for rough values, the Ohm's law equation for converting power and resistance into Voltage is:

Volts = root ( Power x Resistance )

20Volts = root ( 100Watts x 4Ohm ) as an example - note this simple DC calculation ignores a fair amount of losses and complexity, it is only intended to be instructive.


What this means is that inside the guts of these amplifiers (even the 12V ones) there is another voltage conversion "boost" power supply that increases the input supply voltage to the voltage required to get the power out of the amplifier stage. With this knowledge in hand, you can in fact go out and buy amplifier stages (the part after the power supply) and build your own 24VDC amplifier unit. If you really want to go custom, you can go all the way down the the components and build your own boards that do exactly what you want. Want to do a Computer-to-USB-to-6-Channel-Amp (all digital)? You can do that too :)
 
Oldworldtenacity

Oldworldtenacity

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tim292stro said:
Sure.

If you're willing to "go custom" a bit, there are actually a ton of options out there. If you do the math, there is a certain power supply voltage range that will give you a specific power across a specific resistance/impedance (4-Ohms, very common in automotive speakers). If you do "simple math" by assuming DC for rough values, the Ohm's law equation for converting power and resistance into Voltage is:

Volts = root ( Power x Resistance )

20Volts = root ( 100Watts x 4Ohm ) as an example - note this simple DC calculation ignores a fair amount of losses and complexity, it is only intended to be instructive.


What this means is that inside the guts of these amplifiers (even the 12V ones) there is another voltage conversion "boost" power supply that increases the input supply voltage to the voltage required to get the power out of the amplifier stage. With this knowledge in hand, you can in fact go out and buy amplifier stages (the part after the power supply) and build your own 24VDC amplifier unit. If you really want to go custom, you can go all the way down the the components and build your own boards that do exactly what you want. Want to do a Computer-to-USB-to-6-Channel-Amp (all digital)? You can do that too :)
Click to expand...
Well, you certainly seem to know your way around Stereos and Electronics in general.... lol as I am in the dark ages.

I did see numerous amp stages that you are talking about and see what you mean buy customizing it if I was willing to build my own supply.
Part of it is that I am being motivated by the installer to go on ahead and just stick with the 24to12V converter because they only carry 12V amps and will be installing the whole system in the truck. Me being a little stubborn...was trying to still keep it 24V, but I think I am just going to on ahead and do the converter for $ sake.
 
tim292stro

tim292stro

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The Pyles should be inexpensive enough, and go with the 24V 1-Din deck. Less stuff to go wrong, less power loss, common enough and availble nationally that should they blow, you'll be able to source them just about anywhere. If you aren't running anything else that's 12V, I can't see doing a converter - you'll end up spending as much on the amps+converter as getting 24V amps.

Yeah, the systems I installed in the mid '90's were the precursors to the "sport" :) (ha) now called "SPL drag racing":

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HfgiyrXpAlA
 
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