Which calipers for disc conversion

[4bogginchevys]

research

I have the ruffstuff brackets and did not have any problems with them. My bleeder is also on the top... It looks like you put the calipers on the wrong sides?

I looked around at some 3/4 and 1 ton trucks before mounting the calipers, for location. I looked carefully for mounting the calipers and came up with this because the brake lines I used are keyed to the caliper, and I wanted the metal lead of the rubber hose pointing up, not down. I guess I could switch brake lines and flip them for the same result putting the bleeder barely above...instead of barely below level. Admittedly, I was rushing to get it done to use the truck today which didn't happen anyways. The calipers are in front of.....and above the axle centerline, the best copy for placement I could do based on other trucks factory placement. Are your brackets behind and above the axle centerline, this will make the rear of the truck want to lift when you brake, instead of pull down toward the street.....thanks for pointing that out, I may switch it when and if the lines ever need removal for another purpose. Thier all blead out now and it was easy enough to do off the bracket. I would still bleed off the bracket with bleeder strait up after hearing stories of serious problems some are having getting all the air out. Could be related...

BTW: I re-rolled the brake lines to fit the housing better and stop inside the spring pad...pointing up. the rubber lines go up and over the springs and a simple bracket will attach to one of the u-bolt studs to secure the line, I didn't like the idea of it flopping around and getting ripped off by a stick or something coming around in the wheel. I'll post a pic when the bracket is on and line is secure. right now it's just zip tied while I make a design.

 

[4bogginchevys]

My design works and it was given the thumbs up by 2 brake industry engineers one that works for Bendix in that capacity and the other that works for Bosch as a brake engineer.

The design that uses 3/4 Ton brake rotors IMO are what professionals called African engineered and has several faults that are not dealt with by those that sell the kits.

If you measure the stock stud used and the stud hole in the brake rotor you will notice a gap of between .020 to .025. this means the studs arent pressed into the rotors.

According to 3 brake engineers I have had correspondence with the stud should have a slight interference fit in both the hub and rotor.

And since they aren’t hub centric in the stock configuration and they also don’t mount with the correct index on the studs they are a loose fit.

If you would have bothered to check out the pics you would have already seen how the I mounted the K30 Calipers on the 14 bolt axle.

The new solid mount calipers will have a better mount compared to the K30 calipers.

If you’re speaking of my photos they are not entirely my ideas they are the ideas of 3 brake engineers and myself.

They are not the standard K20 rotors that are a thrown together setup that only work marginally, IE are not correctly engineered.

The setup I built was designed from Bendix and Bosch blueprints the same cannot be said for the kit with 3/4 Ton rotors and calipers with brackets bent or with the 4 spacers. With a bit more engineering that 3/4 Ton kit could be a quality kit but they stopped short of getting it right IMO.

I appreciate the research you did....where did you get the idea of the studs to rotor clearances being a loose fit, mine were tight....you might say press fit. and I used the drum I took off for a base when driving the studs thru the housing into the rotor, fit snug. As far as being hub-centric, I understand the idea.....eight studs, all press fit into 2 layers of steel seems about as accurate as needed, and have personally resulted in a true running rotor and wheel. Just looking for clarification on this point because I didn't have any issues at all.

 

[kennyw]

My studs were a press fit into the rotors as well. I have the same run-out and fit as the original drums had. The original drums were not hub-centric. They rely on a press fit between the stud and the hub/drum on a precision bolt pattern. That same bolt pattern is used to center your trucks wheels (again, not hub centric) so you know the pattern has to be accurate. If you have a rotor that the stock 14FF studs do not have a press fit, then you have defective or incorrect parts.

As far as caliper bracket placement, it should make no difference in the front or rear of the axle. Either way the torque while braking is acting on the axle in the same direction and lifts the back of the truck. The only concern you should have is placement of the bleeder screw and routing of the brake lines.

I have been designing safety and nuclear rated material handling equipment (including load holding brakes on large crane hoists which have higher safety standards than the automotive industry) for 15 years. I have found no problems with the design of my rear disc brake setup.

I do still need to add a small bracket for holding the inner end of the short brake hose in place though.