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Why would the Transfer Case pop into neutral while driving?????

Commander5993

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
Hey All,

Did some searching about this, but didn't find anything specifically.

The Background:
We're still trying to find a place to move to, and we have now driven the deuce about 4500-5000 miles over the last 8-9 months, pulling a trailer, plus about 9,500lbs in the bed.

The Problem: A few days ago, we were pulling out of a truck stop, when my Dad thought the transmission went out. He had no power etc. Looking closer, we found the transfer case had popped into neutral. Dad thought he might have just happened to bump it somehow or ? Everything seemed fine.

But Yesterday, we had it happen several more times over the course of about 60 miles.

Related?:
We've been leaking a bit of oil (small puddle about 5-10 inches in diameter) when we park the truck, which would stop after a few minuets. This would only occur when the truck was 'up to temp', and the oil was hot, and as everyone knows it only takes a small amount of hot oil to spread around. We thought it had been just a small engine leak and always kept a check on the oil.

But now, we're wondering if it had been leaking out of the transfer case... which we're going to check.

If so, and the t-case is low: What are the chances that it just needs to be refilled with new fluid...
And it not need pulled off and torn apart?


I'm guessing the only way to know, is to refill, and drive it to see if it continues to pop into neutral.


IF the fluid is not low: Then I'm also guessing that this means there is an problem inside the t-case, and it will be necessary to pull and tear down.


Any input or experience would be appreciated!
~Thanks
 

Commander5993

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
I apologize gringeltaube looks like I got into to big of a hurry, and didn't spend enough time searching.

I have now been through the posts you linked, and I found other connected links in those posts as well, plus a few more I found on my own.

From what I have found, It looks like just for all the bearings/seals cost about $900.
In addition to that would be the sync gears, forks, etc if they need replacing.

I read some people saying you can buy a rebuilt unit for about the same or not much more than parts cost.

So I did some searching and found a military rebuilt unit (rebuilt in 2008 supposedly, as the plate is hand written and not stamped) for $1400
Or Boyce has their own rebuilt units for about $1900

Not sure if the military rebuild would be as good as Boyce's rebuild or vice versa... :confused: although the hand written data plate (instead of type stamp) makes me a bit leery of the military rebuild.

We are currently in South West Missouri near Branson right now.

If we ordered a rebuilt unit and had it shipped here:

Does anyone know of someone or a shop around here, who you would suggest/recommend who could pull the old one, and install the new unit?

If not, I might be able to do it myself, but as stated before, we're on the road, so we don't have our own facilities, so that makes things even more difficult. We just stopped here yesterday at a guys place here who contacted us through our ministry information.


Also, would there be anything else that should be replaced at the same time, if we install a rebuilt transfer case?

I know about the rubber mounts, and I assume that Boyce would carry those as well?


~Thanks
 
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gungearz

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You can also post in the wanted section for a transfer case... some might be local about $400... you can do it yourself but be cautious... it's heavy as heck...
 

rosco

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Give a heavy truck shop a call. They could change it out for you, and make short work of it. They will have the jack/lifts, that will be needed. If you go that way, you might eyeball the U-joints, but otherwise, get where your going first, then worry about the other stuff.
 

eagle4g63

Well-known member
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First thing I would check before going all out and changing the dang thing is to see if the linkage is adjusted right.........does it do it only in High? can you put the transfer in low and it stays in low?, I know it sounds funny, but sometimes it is just the tinny things that will cause so much aggravation, you might be running out of travel on the linkage and it isn't TOTALLY engaging the gears in the transfer case, then with the normal rattles in the truck it just works it way back out.

Follow what I am saying? some times it makes sense in my head but not the way I type it out.
 

Commander5993

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
Give a heavy truck shop a call. They could change it out for you, and make short work of it. They will have the jack/lifts, that will be needed. If you go that way, you might eyeball the U-joints, but otherwise, get where your going first, then worry about the other stuff.
The guy we know here said he knows of a couple truck shops, so we were going to look into that.

The u-joints is a good thought, especially since we're already going to have the shaft off. Might just replace them if they're not that much. Thanks for that thought [thumbzup]
 

Commander5993

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
Follow what I am saying? some times it makes sense in my head but not the way I type it out.
Yep, I know exactly what you're saying. Have that problem myself sometimes...

First thing I would check before going all out and changing the dang thing is to see if the linkage is adjusted right.........does it do it only in High? can you put the transfer in low and it stays in low?, I know it sounds funny, but sometimes it is just the tinny things that will cause so much aggravation, you might be running out of travel on the linkage and it isn't TOTALLY engaging the gears in the transfer case, then with the normal rattles in the truck it just works it way back out.
We have only been running it in high, as we've been highway driving for sometime now.
We hadn't had any problem with it for the first... oh... 4000 miles or so that we've driven on it. Just started popping out in the past few days.

I guess it could be a linkage issue, if something loosened up or moved somehow :confused:
But my Dad and I were talking this morning, as he has been the one driving it, and he said he could hear some gear noises and such.

Also if it was the linkage, and it wasn't totally engaging the gears in the TC, wouldn't that mean that it has probably ruined the gears by wearing the 'tips' of the teeth?

We need to pull the Tunnel cover in the floor... but about a year ago, we installed a rubber floor with insulation. And yes of course we covered up the TC cover thinking "...we'll never have to pull that...." :doh: So we'll have to cut the flooring and such, to get to the cover bolts, pull that out, and then look at the linkage and take off the inspection plate.



I know that you believe you understand what you think I said, but I am not sure you realize that what you heard is not what I meant!!

Life is like a jar of Jalapeno peppers.....what you do today, might burn your butt tomorrow.
It might sound funny, but it is true.
 

mbehne

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If you can't find anything I'm certain I have or can get more than a few good used transfers and plenty of tools to lend a hand. I know we are aways away but it's not a bad drive.

mike
 

Commander5993

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
Is the TC low on lube? Can you reach it with your finger? Don't pull the tunnel, unless you have too.
Sorry guys I haven't updated sooner. But we've been dealing with some other issues, and didn't get back to the truck until today.

So here's the update:


Today we pulled the Transfer Case inspection plate, but wasn't able to see much. However, I did notice that there was decent layer of oil covering everything, even after it has been sitting for a couple days.
Then we pulled the fill plug, but we couldn't feel any oil.

So, to answer your question Rosco, yes it was low.


At this point, we figured we might as well as pull the drain plug, and see whats stuck to the magnet.

When we pulled the plug, we had about 4 or so quarts of oil pour into our drain pan... and another half-to-full quart spill all over our cardboard. The Oil was pretty clean, which is why we hadn't pulled the drain plug before. As last year when we were changing/checking fluids. We found that all the axles, trans, TC, had nice clean fluid. So we had pulled the fill plug, checked level, and topped up with Lucus per some recommendations here on SS.

Inspecting the drain plug magnet, we only found a small amount of fine metal. No pieces, no chunks, grit, or anything else. Just a small amount of very fine, almost dust, metal, which you would expect to find on any magnetic drain plug after... ??? miles... we know of nearly 5000 miles that we have put on it, and we don't know how long before we got the truck since the drain plug had been pulled and cleaned.


SO.... we decided to re install everything. Refill with Travelers Straight 40w non-detergent oil from TSC, as per many SS member recommendations on this thread: http://goo.gl/JEQnRR

We'll drive the truck and see what happens.


If you can't find anything I'm certain I have or can get more than a few good used transfers and plenty of tools to lend a hand. I know we are aways away but it's not a bad drive.

mike
Wow Mike! That is Awesome of you to Offer! [thumbzup][thumbzup][thumbzup] We Really Appreciate it, and its really Great that you would go that far just help someone out, who you don't even know!
But, as posted above, we hope and Pray that it was just because the fluid was low, and it didn't do any permanent damage.




Right now, we are focusing on finding property, so it might be a few weeks (or less if we find something soon) before we will be driving the truck again.
But when we do, I'll report the results.


A couple questions:
#1 If the 'high' side goes out, can the truck be shifted into low and limp it somewhere?
#2 should we add Lucus to the TC oil? Will it help?
#3
I've seen in other threads, where SS members using a bungee (or other measures like a door latch) around the TC shift lever holding it in high, to prevent it from moving. Will this help prevent further wear? Will this hurt anything, liking putting to much pressure on the TC gears or something?

Any other suggestions, comments, etc?
~Thanks Again All
 

mbehne

Member
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Location
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I've never tried it on a duece, the bungie trick that is, but I would assume it should help and shouldn't do any major harm other than possibly some wear on the shift fork. We have helped quite a few people milk thier jumping out of gear outboard motors for many seasons is way.
 
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gringeltaube

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Responses:
#1 YES.
#2 No additive in the world will restore worn synchronizer dogs...
#3 It may help the syncro stay in gear, but at the cost of a new shift fork, if done for too long. (see this post here)


G.
 

jamawieb

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Can you put the transfer case into low?? If you can put the t-case into low, I would say that the syncro is worn or the linkage. When my input shaft bearing went out, it popped out of gear and would not shift into low. The input shaft is 99% of the problem on these trucks due to poor lubrication. I pulled mine and replaced the input shaft bearings and all seals, I left the other bearings alone. Been working great for the last year.
 

rolling18

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I feel your pain!!
I am going through the same thing NOW... mine runs in High range fine as long as you "baby" it when you give it more throttle it will clank out and into neutral.

I have mine H/L range lever wedged in high but that is not working anymore.
If I hold the lever up I can FEEL it pulling down with the torque of the motor as I get on and off the accelerator.. before long i will only be able to drive in low range!! max of 30 MPH! uhh

Where does one adjust the high/ low range linkage?
 

jamawieb

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There is a cover, inside the cab where the lever goes down to the transfer case. Take that cover off and you'll see the adjustment on you transfer case lever.
 
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