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Width question

rongaudier

Member
84
35
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Location
Republic of Texas, Bastrop
Hello, I'm about to bid on an AM general M35A2 and am wondering if it will fit on my trailer. Accoding to the spec sheet the nominal tread (track) width is 70 inches at the rear. I'm wondering if this is with both dual wheels installed?
My lowboy has a max internal with of 84" Any help on this is appreciated.
 

KsM715

Well-known member
5,149
142
63
Location
St George Ks
Outside to outside the rear duals are 91 inches +/-

If you remove the outside wheel on each side you should be in the 68 inch range.

Edit: Welcome to the site. Good luck with the auction.
 
Last edited:

rongaudier

Member
84
35
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Location
Republic of Texas, Bastrop
Thanks for the info guys. I guess something that shoud not be overlooked is the hassle of trying to unbolt those wheels. I suppose if I can rent a gas air compressor and a big impact wrench it wouldn't be as bad. Do any of you know who I could call in the Austin/San Antonio area for hauling this beast? It's about a 110 mile haul to my house from where the truck is located.
 

KsM715

Well-known member
5,149
142
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Location
St George Ks
Its possible it will have the tools in the box under the drivers door to remove the lug nuts. Just remeber one side is right hand threads and the other side should be left hand threads. Unless some knucklehead replaced some studs with the wrong ones. The ends should have a R or a L on them.
 

LanceRobson

Well-known member
1,638
206
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Location
Pinnacle, Stokes County, NC
Just a silly question here, but what are standard threads, RH thread?
Yes. It's the left side studs that are left hand thread. The lug nuts are 1-1/2". A long handled 3/4" ratchet handle will usually get them off but you might need a torque multiplying wrench or a Swench mechanical impact wrench.

If the truck runs and makes compressed air there is an air fitting (1/4"?) up under the passenger side of the dash.

The more modern way to use the compressed air is to put an air brake "glad hand" coupler on an air hose, hook it to the passenger side rear trailer air brake connection (that's the always pressurized side), open the air vavle that's up beside the outer frame rail and use an an impact wrench.

It'll be a one or two nut at a time deal while the air pressure builds up again, even if the hand throttle is set at 1,500 RPM. I wouldn't run the engine any faster without a load to hold down the lash and such.

Most 3/4" impacts will get the job done. Be sure to use only an impact socket. Standard ones can explode like a small grenade. If you search the classified section you may find a "budd wheel socket" that has a 1-1/2" hex for the lug nuts and a 15/16" square part for the studs on the same socket. they are usually on ebay also.

Lance
 

emr

New member
3,211
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0
Location
landing , new jersey
bring a 5 to 6ft pipe with a 3/4 drive breaker bar, and always pull the handle to the rear of the truck no matter what side u are on, then use air or electric tools, I really think your trailer is to narrow, but thats just me, will be top heavy, are U going to try and pull with a pick up, I know guys do it, but that in my opinion is never a good idea, but alot get away with it, but have seen a post here of one that the deuce took her over, just sayin good luck,
 

rongaudier

Member
84
35
18
Location
Republic of Texas, Bastrop
It's in San Antonio 77miles from my house. I put in a bid request on U Ship, no replies yet. I'm not going to bid until I have a rough idea of how much it will cost to ship it. I'm thinking I might be willing to go as high as $500 to transport it.
 

Haggar

New member
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0
0
Location
Oxford, MI
Another good tip for getting the nuts started, if you don't have air tools. Consider this a poor man's impact.

Get your standard breaker-bar with a 5ft cheater pipe, and put it on there. But, instead of pushing, standing, sitting, bouncing on it, etc., try hitting the end a few times HARD with a full size sledgehammer. It will create a good impact to break it lose, but not the constant torque that tends to snap sockets and breaker bar (a 200lb man on the end of a 5ft cheater = 1000ft-lbs, which is more than many tools are rated for).

I was skeptical at first, but its worked well for me especially useful for removing FWD car CV shaft nuts.
 

TIGERFANS2

Member
584
0
16
Location
Topeka, Ks
check with kipman and see if he has any geared lug wrenches left, if he does you'll have plenty of time to get it before your EUC clears

(somewhat understated, what?)
 

rongaudier

Member
84
35
18
Location
Republic of Texas, Bastrop
Ron,

You might try a wrecker outfit, since you aren't really going very far I would think you could have it towed. Might be cheaper than hauling.
That's a thought, I suppose I'd have to remove the back axles and if the wheels are on the road there still might be some legality issues. I did find a shipper that will do it for under $500 which is probably well worth it to avoid lots of potential hassle. Currently I'm high bidder, but since there is only one of these at this location, I expect the competition to be stiff. I'm probably already at my bid limit for this unit.

If I don't get this one I'll keep looking. My plan is to do a bobbed-duece project and put a dump bed on it. I think this would be ideal for occasional use moving dirt, gravel, boulders and pulling a equipment trailer.
 

rongaudier

Member
84
35
18
Location
Republic of Texas, Bastrop
Well I ended up not getting the deuce I was looking at. I did find a company that would do the move for $370 which I think was a pretty fair deal. Now I have another question. Is it possible to transport 2 deuces at a time on a trailer? I'm thinking if I bid up in Arkansas or Oklahoma, I may as well bid on two as it probably wouldn't cost much more to move 2 on one truck than one. Anyone out there ever tried this?
 
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