- 558
- 844
- 93
- Location
- Riverhead, NY
Yes that one
-
Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
Will start only with a squirt of starting fluid. Runs great once started.
- Thread starter 7Dust
- Start date
I have eyeballed this before... it seemd to be torqued to eleventy billion foot lbs.
Wasn't sure it came out with a socket or wasn't removable or what...
I'll hit it with my purse I guess?
- 558
- 844
- 93
- Location
- Riverhead, NY
I have had it off by carefully selecting a 6 point socket that fits.
I have a 12 point that fits great.
So great Ive killed the first ratchet.
I'll hit it with my bigger purse.
msgjd
Well-known member
- 1,079
- 3,312
- 113
- Location
- upstate ny
be careful, that stubborn plug can cause a cracked HH .. it will come out, but as you are finding out it can be overly difficult for its size. .. much like my ex-wife
The more I think about this. It reminds me of our dyno room at work that had a damaged canister filter on the wall. We would prime system w/ electric pump. at 20 psi. Start engine, it run for a while than stall out if you didn't run the electric pump would not restart. But if you stood out in the room and ran the electric pump it would stay running forever. That when I noticed the fuel level in it (canister filter) was dropping while we were running. Never leaked fuel but draw air in. I would check your primary fuel filter housing again. Check the O-rings are installed correctly, Not missing a O-ring, etc.... You said you had 2psi at in tank but .5 psi at secondary so problem lies between. Primary filter housing. If you have spin on filter at primary remember you need a O-ring around the tread fitting that filter screws on too.
- 7,409
- 2,503
- 113
- Location
- Interlachen Fl.
Okay we're definitely talking about the 12-point cap on the side of the hydraulic head not the interference fit hex head that's on the top. Yes that's why I said you got to be careful that little spring. Then there's the delivery valve inside of there. Has a slot in it and a right size flat blade screwdriver can be inserted and twist that thing if it's stuck. We get it out and clean it up. I said it's just about like a needle and seat on a carburetor. Tapered at the end and it fits into the bore. The TM has it opening pressure of between 2 and 400 lb. Don't ask me why there's such a great difference in opening pressures but that needs to seat every time the plunger compresses the fuel in the pressure chamber. Whatever I had to remove the delivery valve I just stuck to 12-point socket on there with a small ratchet and hit it with a hammer or another ratchet and it always broke loose.
I replaced the seal on the center bolt and the seal in the canister.
I can check again. I’ve pulled it twice. Three times a party!
Mayyybe there is some crud in there after all. I am now seeing ~3PSI (up from 2) at the tank but still basically zero at the secondary filter.
I can now inmmediately restart the truck with no starting fluid.
Its a hard start and probably wont start when cold - BUT it restarted.
I now see @Floridianson comment on how to remove the seat with screwdriver.
I will see if I can get it out.
msgjd
Well-known member
- 1,079
- 3,312
- 113
- Location
- upstate ny
The only time i ever had the ether-assist "but afterwards ran perfect" situation was with the M109A3 when i went to get it at the DRMO .. Discovered the fuel pump fuse blown, pump inop, then sticky and slow upon fuse change.. Fixed that and has been starting normal for 15 years now.. I know you said your lift pump was running fine and fuel comes out the bleeders, but I have to wonder if its running slow or perhaps gum buildup on the inside of the fuel lines.. Ran into a thick gum lining the inside the M817's lines recently
Last edited:
biscuitwhistler37
Well-known member
- 292
- 858
- 93
- Location
- Michigan
If you crank it with your foot on the throttle, does it change anything? Or if you pull the throttle lock, say, 3-5 clicks out? Seems like crud would have worked it's way through by now, to me it sounds like either low compression or throttle cable misadjustment. Can't hurt to try at this point
biscuitwhistler37
Well-known member
- 292
- 858
- 93
- Location
- Michigan
Any update?
- 3,256
- 3,349
- 113
- Location
- NORTH (Canada)
Methinks that, if the engine started fine beforehand and the HH was not messed with, it is unlikely that, all of a sudden, the HH is no longer producing enough pressure. I think "HH wear" is a bit of a red herring at this point. If there is no crud in the set screw seat I don't know if I would pursue the HH as an issue.
I wonder whether it makes any sense to have the in-tank fuel pump running and, in addition, slightly pressurize the fuel tank (shop rag and compressed air line) to get the 7 or so psi that are "normal" , crank her over and see whether that makes a lick of difference.
My truck has a habit of kicking my rear with things that are simple fixes where I go "nah, it can't be just THAT...there has to be another issue...." , spend hours troubleshooting, only to discover that the 15 min fix would have indeed been IT.
I wonder whether it makes any sense to have the in-tank fuel pump running and, in addition, slightly pressurize the fuel tank (shop rag and compressed air line) to get the 7 or so psi that are "normal" , crank her over and see whether that makes a lick of difference.
My truck has a habit of kicking my rear with things that are simple fixes where I go "nah, it can't be just THAT...there has to be another issue...." , spend hours troubleshooting, only to discover that the 15 min fix would have indeed been IT.
No improvement.
*sometimes * the truck will hard start immeiately after killing it.
Still needs starting fluid to start.
I am wondering why I see such low pressure at the lift pump (~2-3 PSI) and at the secondary filters (0 - .5 PSI) with the engine off and pump running.
*sometimes * the truck will hard start immeiately after killing it.
Still needs starting fluid to start.
I am wondering why I see such low pressure at the lift pump (~2-3 PSI) and at the secondary filters (0 - .5 PSI) with the engine off and pump running.
Very possibly this. The crap in the tank was the worst Ive ever seen.
However, the tank has been cleaned pretty well and the pump is now a NOS unit.
If the lines are blocked with crud, wouldn't I see HIGHER pressure at the tank? I'm only seeing ~2-3 PSI
No, the seat wouldn't come out.
I have a spare parts HH and tried to remove the seat with a screwdirver and it wouldn't come out of that one either.
There are slots in it so it can spin - but it wouldn't come out.
It looked prettty clean in there when I put my boroscope in to peek. Not sure if should investigate this further.