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winch installs

JohnnyBM931A2

Member
877
2
18
Location
Crystal Lake, Illinois
Here are some pics of my rear winch setup. Integrated with height adjustable receiver mount.

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That's a cool setup :) Honestly, you don't even need those pins on the adjustable vertical legs.. Just hook the front of the winch cable around that lower receiver mount, and you can use the winch to raise/lower it. That would make it "infinitely" adjustable (unless you plan on using the winch to pull stuff on to your trailer, which means that idea wouldn't work.)
 

Swamp Donkey

The Engineer
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I finished hardwiring my winch. I had made the panel next to the winch to hold the remote connector and a slave port. I had the winch wired directly to the slave port and powered the winch with a slave cable run around the truck until I got all the supplies together.


I used the slave port as the junction for the new 3/0 welding cable to tie into the leads from the winch. This gave me a clean junction and a powered slave port in the front. The cables were loomed and secured with loop clamps. I used solder lugs with solder pellets and marine adhesive heat shrink on all the ends. The Overload Interrupt Module ended up in plain sight where the status light is visible while running the winch. For those whose OIM was painted, yes there is a status lights on it. The master switch is a Blue Sea 3000, rated at 600A continuous and 900A intermittent.

Pictures won't upload. Will try again later...

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Recovry4x4

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GA Mountains
That Blue Sea stuff can be pricy but it is top shelf. I'm lucky to have a West Marine here at work with a whole isle of Blue Sea stuff.
 

Swamp Donkey

The Engineer
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That Blue Sea stuff can be pricy but it is top shelf. I'm lucky to have a West Marine here at work with a whole isle of Blue Sea stuff.
I agree on the Blue Sea stuff. I figured since this was probably the largest circuit on the truck, I'd do it up real good. I'm actually not going to stay with that switch though. That switch is a single circuit ON/OFF switch. There is another model that is a two circuit, multiple position switch that I'll swap it out with. I could then have a master switch for the truck and the winch all in one switch, with the ability to power one or the other, or both at the same time. Unfortunately I didn't think of this until after I received the first one.
 

74M35A2

Well-known member
4,145
332
83
Location
Livonia, MI
Finally got my el cheapo winch install finished today. Went with 12 volt since I have 8 deep cycle AGM batteries for the coach power in back.
8 batteries? Are you serious? That's over $1000 just in batteries. You know, if you add 2 more and series them up, it will be 120V and not even need an inverter if you want to power light bulbs, toasters, brush type motor appliances, and your own electric chair.
 

QUADJEEPER

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Location
Winter Springs, FL
8 batteries? Are you serious? That's over $1000 just in batteries. You know, if you add 2 more and series them up, it will be 120V and not even need an inverter if you want to power light bulbs, toasters, brush type motor appliances, and your own electric chair.
Ha ha. I like the electric chair idea. No, that's part of my solar system. Check out my thread " Survival 109 build " for the details.
 

Swamp Donkey

The Engineer
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Gray, GA
Got 2 out of 6 pictures to upload in the previous post. The 2 that uploaded were slightly larger than the others so...who knows.
 

Hard Head

Member
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Location
Greenville SC
Caiman MRAP (12) (1).jpgBe careful not to use too long of a bolt or over torque as you could damage the winch housing. Torque between 35 and 50 ft lbs! The 3/4" thick Warn Caiman mounting plate shown in the picture uses 8 - 40 mm 10.9 flange bolts. I used 8- 35 mm on the RG-33 bumpers when I send out with a winch since it is approx 1/2" thick. The bolt flanges practically touch one another. Warn recommends 10.9 or better grade bolts. 10.9 = grade 8 SAE.
 
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