Winch mounting plates

[Landbarger]

Also if you need anything (non 3D ) cut out of plate let me know. If we can render it, I can cut it

Do you have any detailed pictures of the cut quality on your parts? I had some knife blanks laser cut at a local shop for my dad and I thought the cut quality was terrible. The kerf is very small and the interior hex corners are relatively precise, but it kinda looks like the beam wandered all over the place. I'm thinking it's because there was a lot of surface rust on the old head saw blade we cut them out of. I didn't expect it to be wire EDM clean, but this was pretty rough. We're looking to cut another batch, but out of a virgin sheet of 440C this time. I'm almost hesitant to make that commitment with the same shop.

 

[Hard Head]

Do you have any detailed pictures of the cut quality on your parts? I had some knife blanks laser cut at a local shop for my dad and I thought the cut quality was terrible. The kerf is very small and the interior hex corners are relatively precise, but it kinda looks like the beam wandered all over the place. I'm thinking it's because there was a lot of surface rust on the old head saw blade we cut them out of. I didn't expect it to be wire EDM clean, but this was pretty rough. We're looking to cut another batch, but out of a virgin sheet of 440C this time. I'm almost hesitant to make that commitment with the same shop.

I will get you a picture when I go in today

 

[74M35A2]

All points valid. Great you can bring it to market for a reasonable price. Follow the rules, list it in the classifieds, and everybody wins. I'm not a moderator, but as a member who also sells on the board, just play fair, and we hope you make a million dollars from it.

 

[Hard Head]

Do you have any detailed pictures of the cut quality on your parts? I had some knife blanks laser cut at a local shop for my dad and I thought the cut quality was terrible. The kerf is very small and the interior hex corners are relatively precise, but it kinda looks like the beam wandered all over the place. I'm thinking it's because there was a lot of surface rust on the old head saw blade we cut them out of. I didn't expect it to be wire EDM clean, but this was pretty rough. We're looking to cut another batch, but out of a virgin sheet of 440C this time. I'm almost hesitant to make that commitment with the same shop.

Here are some examples cut at normal speed. We can slow it down to get a better edge.

Bottom to top:

11ga
1/4
5/8
3/16

 

[Hard Head]

How do you delete a post?

 

[porkysplace]

How do you delete a post?

Only moderators can delete posts.

 

[74M35A2]

There is a lot of good info here. All you need to do is to remove your prices from your posts on this thread. Just do that by editing those posts, throw an ad in the classifieds, reference that ad in this thread, and you are golden.

 

[Hard Head]

This is a plate I did today that locks between the original frame rail and the new frame rails. It covers the gap below the winch. Keeps crap from getting on or into the winch from below. It is two sheets of AR500 welded together to make a 33.75 x 14.5 plate. I also added a piece of angle to stiffen it up since it is 2 - 1/4" pieces welded together. Just have paint tomorrow and it will be ready to go.

 

[TwistedOaks]

Hard Head, Here's where I was wanting to go with my front install. I've test fit both upside down and rear-ward. I'm not crazy about the fitting as shown below, because it puts the guide plate springs in harms way, and requires a front mount fabrication for the fairlead. But this method does allow for only a 9" mounting depth (feet mounted rear-ward, pull from top).

Rotate 90, for upside down, and you're ready to go, fairlead in the factory position and with a simple 12" x 15" plate using the factory bolts beneath the radiator frame mount, and the front of the bumper. Downside to that way, is almost 12" mounting height, and need to notch out the inside lower of the front bumper for the control box to fit.

Obviously, either orientation should really have a cage built around it for basic protection.

I'm interested to hear thoughts and design options. Understanding of course that for my purposes i'm not terribly concerned about approach angle, and I'm not rock crawling, so it's more a matter of stopping road debris.


https://youtu.be/nigB_BhFxbg

 

[Hard Head]

Hard Head, Here's where I was wanting to go with my front install. I've test fit both upside down and rear-ward. I'm not crazy about the fitting as shown below, because it puts the guide plate springs in harms way, and requires a front mount fabrication for the fairlead. But this method does allow for only a 9" mounting depth (feet mounted rear-ward, pull from top).

Rotate 90, for upside down, and you're ready to go, fairlead in the factory position and with a simple 12" x 15" plate using the factory bolts beneath the radiator frame mount, and the front of the bumper. Downside to that way, is almost 12" mounting height, and need to notch out the inside lower of the front bumper for the control box to fit.

Obviously, either orientation should really have a cage built around it for basic protection.

I'm interested to hear thoughts and design options. Understanding of course that for my purposes i'm not terribly concerned about approach angle, and I'm not rock crawling, so it's more a matter of stopping road debris.

View attachment 631717View attachment 631716
https://youtu.be/nigB_BhFxbg

The biggest problem is that you must follow the mounting requirements for the winch. You should reverse the winch so the feet go toward the bumper. If you are set on doing this, you should remove the bumper and cut off the bends where they interfere and weld or bolt a new flat plate across the bumper. You will need to make the plate between the frame about 3 to 4 inches taller. Cut out an area to feed the cable and mount the fairlead thru the new plate and old bumper into the winch. You may have to remove the bumper and verify that this will work. The way you have it hanging will not work without a lot of fabrication to hold the winch and you would be pulling from the top and not the bottom of the winch. See the mounting requirements at Warn.com. I would be happy to fabricate you a new bumper plate with all the holes if you decide to go this route. I would have to disassemble my whole front end to try this. Let me know if you run into any interference with the bumper to frame plates. I have an 923A2 model which may have a slight difference in mounting since I have shackles above and below the bumper.

 

[Hard Head]

Here are some pics of the rear mounting system. This system will go on a 939 series without drilling the frame rails! The mounting plate clamps to the frame. I have not painted these yet. They will be primed and painted black. The kit includes a fairlead attachment plate that goes on the rear of the cargo frame. You can install the fairlead plate inside or on the outside of the bed. I will add 2 more bolts since I decided to add bolts in the middle of the plate on the last cutting. These are precise laser cut components. Structural and Grade 8 bolts are provided. Fairlead plates are 1/4". The truck rear is only 3/16". You will have 7/16" with one plate. Mounting and clamp plates are 1/2" thick hardened steel. Structural bolts are used for clamping. Grade 8 for fairlead mounting and Grade 12.9 for winch mounting. Installation instructions will be included. I will put more info in a classified and come back and link it.

 

[TwistedOaks]

Gotta say... prepackaged "ready to bolt" makes me very excited. I'll be in for one. How soon until your ready on these?

Gonna need to get a second winch for the front... Once I figure out how that's gonna work.

 

[TwistedOaks]

HH Would it be possible to do a similar setup to Ricky's on the 9-series?


I like coming through the rear under the tailgate, but I don't want to interfere with the complete drop down. (Of course, with my torsion springs back there, I don't really have that much of a problem since I don't really let it get to the full 180... but for future use, or if a spring were to damage, I wouldn't want the tailgate slamming the fairlead.)

 

[Hard Head]

I mount the fairlead where your star is located! Straight shot for the winch cable. My tailgate had a habit of breaking my reflectors! I may put 2 brackets with rubber bumper on the tailgate to prevent mine from going below horizontal by accident. Not an issue on a deuce since the Pintle is smaller and we can go under it. The Pintle is larger and the plate has to drop way to low for me on the 939's. Just envision the farilead where the Reese hitch is. It will be axle height. It may catch on something off road. If you only drive on the highway I would not sweat it! You would mount the winch on the lower main frame rails near the axle to clear the pintle hitch assembly at an angle. I do not have that plate fabricated for a 939 series that will just bolt up now. It will require more than just a flat plate. I am making a pentle hitch system that will bolt over the hook to guide the ring. I will see about incorporating a fairlead into it. It may require a position pin to raise the bottom scoop since it guides and lifts the ring over the hook if needed. I would worry about damaging my farilead without it! 10" Fairleads are very expensive to replace!

 

[Hard Head]

Gotta say... prepackaged "ready to bolt" makes me very excited. I'll be in for one. How soon until your ready on these?

Gonna need to get a second winch for the front... Once I figure out how that's gonna work.

I will have 3 ready to go out the door Monday. Just have a little painting to do!

 

[Hard Head]

I just made a new generic plate that will mount the Series 18, 15, 12, 9 and M15000. That should just about cover any winch you would want to mount on your truck.


If we could just get holes tapped at the same time!

 

[Hard Head]

I can recess the fairlead into the rear cross member of the truck by framing the mounting plate with 2" square tubing and recessing it inside. See pics. I will weld one up tomorrow. I will also have to upgrade the 8 bolts from 3/8" to 7/16"

 

[TwistedOaks]

I can recess the fairlead into the rear cross member of the truck by framing the mounting plate with 2" square tubing and recessing it inside. See pics. I will weld one up tomorrow. I will also have to upgrade the 8 bolts from 3/8" to 7/16"

View attachment 635665View attachment 635666View attachment 635667View attachment 635668

Looking forward to the mounted results.

 

[TwistedOaks]

Well ****! I get a call from my MIL this afternoon, telling me there's some wood box on the doorstep of my house. "I don't know what it is but I can't move it!"

The packaging alone was pretty enough to take a picture of! I feel like I need to save the box like I just smoked a good cigar!

This is gonna be a fun evening!

 

[Hard Head]

Well Guys I have been busy today but I did make the recessing frame for the rear fairlead and I started cutting out the rear cross member when my battery died. So I will finish tomorrow and post the final pics. So this will save the fairlead and tailgate from hitting. I made a 2x2 square steel frame and drilled it so it matches the fairlead plate I have in the rear kit. The fairlead mounts to the fairlead plate inside the unit. Then all you have to do is cut a 14 x 5 centered square in the rear above the pintle and mount with the plate on the inside of the cargo bed. I will finish it tomorrow and post the pics. I will update the instructions to include the frame if anyone wants it. The fairlead will mount flush with the rear cross member since it is 3/16" thick and that is the exact space needed to flush the fairlead. It also means that only the side rollers protrude from the truck. I will include pics with the tailgate up and down showing clearance. The truck I am working on has a dent right in the center of the cross member. Going to do some body work on it with a hydraulic ram to straighten it out!