winch questions

[panzerjunky]

Hello Again
Sorry for all the posts its just the weekend when I have time to work on this thing.

My winch looks to be in very good shape the piece of steel that goes over the top with the data plates on it is a little bent if I take the bolts out that hold it on to try to straighten it nothing will fall apart inside the winch will it?

Also when I pull out the drum lock and turn it so the drum frees pools I can pull out cable but I cannot get the clutch lever to move is there something else i need to do before I can move the clutch jaw lever in or out or is it jammed or something it will move both directions slightly but stops like it is hitting something.

Which plug do you remove to check the gear oil level
What do you put in it for gear oil
What is the stuff on the cable used to protect it its not runny or greasy
I have an LO but the fluids are listed in military terms just looking for the civilian equivalent.

Thanks Jerry

 

[Recovry4x4]

You can remove the top plate without fear of the winch coming apart. The dog clutch only has a few places where the pieces meet, sometimes you have to spin the drum while tugging on the lever before it will engage. The plug location escapes me right now, can't picture it. As far as oil it uses GO (Gear Oil).

 

[emmado22]

80/90 weight oil for the winch, tranny, transfer, and axles...

 

[gringeltaube]

Plug...

 

[gringeltaube]

...................... is there something else i need to do before I can move the clutch jaw lever in or out or is it jammed or something it will move both directions slightly but stops like it is hitting something.

Sorry for questioning.....: you sure did lift the locking tab, right...?

 

[LanceRobson]

If you don't already have a copy, go to the "RESOURCES" section and download the -10 manual for the truck. It covers the inspection, adjustment, operation and lubrication in detail.

Check your local industrial supply houses or tractor supply store for "Open gear and wire rope lube"

CRC, Spray-on and others make it in liquid or spray. Wear fairly heavy gloves, wire brush the outer cable surface to get the crud off and lube it. A little lube goes a long way. Better to lube it and wait a week or so to see it it still seems "dry" than to over lube it and creat a dust and grit magnet. I find that the wire brushes that look like a rectangular floor scrubbing brush are a lot faster and easier to use than the skinny brush-on a-stick kind.

As you look at the winch, at the lower right front corner of the worm gear case there is a cover behind which is the friction brake that is intended to hold the drum from unspooling when the winch is in use and in neutral. I strongly recommend you remove the cover and check for the brake band being corroded onto the brake drum or covered in rust scale. If it is, loosen it from the drum, flush it with solvent and after it drys, adjust it. If it's rusted onto the drum and you try to run the winch under power, you'll break something (hopefully just a shear pin)

The adjustment of that brake rides the fine line between holding the rated capacity of the winch on a slope and not overheating during operation. They don't like crud and the gaskets are usually dried out and leaking.

There is another friction brake that rides on the lower left side of the winch drum (as viewed from the front) that keeps the drum from continuing to free wheel when the clutch is "OUT" and the poppet that locks the drum is disengaged. It adjusts from the big screw slot in the side of the clutch housing. The durn thing is tough to get to but you'll only need to "bird"s nest" the cable one time for it to become inportant enough to find a way.

Lance

 

[CARNAC]

I have to 100% agree with Lance. Please, PLEASE, download the -10 from the resources and read it thoroughly. It's important to know the basics on these vehicles prior to getting on the road. Deuces are over 13,000 pounds and can do A LOT of damage when it hits a civilian vehicle. Likewise the winch can be dangerous also. It sure would suck loosing a member or having others killed due to lack of reading the TM.

Yesterday I replaced the head gasket on my deuce with a trained mechanic. In preparation, I read the manual 3 times. I still forgot the torque specs and sequence but I did remember enough to be of assistance and caught one issue prior to becoming an issue due to this preparation. Point is, you (all deuce owners) should have every TM that applies to them.

 

[scooter01922]

TM, TM, TM. We all like to respond and be helpful but the TM's are all here and FREE.

 

[maybefixit]

Here's a good cautionary thread on using the winch, it was great that no-one had to get hurt to provide this lesson. I'm glad that he was willing to post the incident for us to learn from.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce/24404-winch-disaster-three-donkeyss-hard-work.html

 

[mudguppy]

... As you look at the winch, at the lower right front corner of the worm gear case there is a cover behind which is the friction brake that is intended to hold the drum from unspooling when the winch is in use and in neutral. ... The adjustment of that brake rides the fine line between holding the rated capacity of the winch on a slope and not overheating during operation. ...

do you have a picture or diagram of this "load brake"? my understanding of a worm drive is that no brake would be required - kinda like nuts don't need a "brake" to keep from untwisting off of the bolt when tension is applied...

and i thought there was only one brake to adjust on the winch: the drag brake.

 

[LanceRobson]

do you have a picture or diagram of this "load brake"? my understanding of a worm drive is that no brake would be required - kinda like nuts don't need a "brake" to keep from untwisting off of the bolt when tension is applied...

and i thought there was only one brake to adjust on the winch: the drag brake.

Garwood has made thousands of these and they've all got brakes on the worm shaft.

Pull the cap screws on the cover at the front of the worm side housing. There is a brake drum on the end of the worm shaft that has a strap style brake wrapped around it. The adjusting nut is underneath. The TM will tel you to test it on a slope with a load on the cable and tighten it (I can't remember if it's a full or half turn at a time) until it holds the rated load. It also states to check the cover for heat build up while using the winch and to back off the drag if it gets hot.

Lance

 

[m16ty]

do you have a picture or diagram of this "load brake"? my understanding of a worm drive is that no brake would be required - kinda like nuts don't need a "brake" to keep from untwisting off of the bolt when tension is applied...

and i thought there was only one brake to adjust on the winch: the drag brake.

Worm gears don't like to back off but will if enough load is applied. It works a little different than a bolt because the force is a turning force on a winch where as a bolt has a force that's trying to pull it apart and you have the friction of the bolt head and nut against the part being bolted. Bolts will back off also if they are not torqued properly.