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Winch Removal

mauinate

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I'm planning on removing my winch from my 1088 truck. I need the space and probably will never need the winch. I can probably figure it out with some luck and the TMs, but does anyone here have any suggestions on the best way to do it? I'm also not familiar with PTOs, so I have a lot to learn there.

Any tips are much appreciated. And also, anyone want a winch ;)
 

Awesomeness

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It's not very complex, but that's not the same thing as "easy". The PTO is challenging, because you have to move to a different spot to get at each bolt, and even then some of them are awkwardly at arm's length.

The front roller fairlead is integrated into the front passenger-side cab mount. So in order to remove it (to sell it), you will need to get the cab mount bracket out of a non-winch truck, and swap them. (I have one, if you want to do that.)

The rear roller fairlead is used with a unique passenger-side bumper "wing" that has a hole for the fairlead. You'll want to swap that with the one without the hole, from a non-winch truck, too.

And don't forget that the dash panel, along with the short wire harness for all the switches and tach that connects behind the heater, goes with the winch. Non-winch trucks don't have any of that (e.g. panel, tach, wiring harness, switches).
 

mauinate

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Canyon Lake, CA
It's not very complex, but that's not the same thing as "easy". The PTO is challenging, because you have to move to a different spot to get at each bolt, and even then some of them are awkwardly at arm's length.

The front roller fairlead is integrated into the front passenger-side cab mount. So in order to remove it (to sell it), you will need to get the cab mount bracket out of a non-winch truck, and swap them. (I have one, if you want to do that.)

The rear roller fairlead is used with a unique passenger-side bumper "wing" that has a hole for the fairlead. You'll want to swap that with the one without the hole, from a non-winch truck, too.

And don't forget that the dash panel, along with the short wire harness for all the switches and tach that connects behind the heater, goes with the winch. Non-winch trucks don't have any of that (e.g. panel, tach, wiring harness, switches).
Thank you so much. I'll update this thread as I go along!
 

coachgeo

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to sell winch as a complete kit... you will need to remove the passenger front cab support (it has winch rollers attached) . So you must swap in a cab support from a non winch truck.

to sell winch as an incomplete kit is potentially to NOT be able to sell any of it at all so might as well start looking for a front cab support.
 

Mullaney

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to sell winch as a complete kit... you will need to remove the passenger front cab support (it has winch rollers attached) . So you must swap in a cab support from a non winch truck.

to sell winch as an incomplete kit is potentially to NOT be able to sell any of it at all so might as well start looking for a front cab support.
My search skills here are pretty crummy unless I know exactly what I am looking for... Is there a string of information here about replacing those rubber cab mounts? I am going the other way - installing a winch - and I was looking at how to replace the right side cab support. Those rubber "biscuits" on my truck look like they are about to fall apart with splits all the way around them :-( .

Where to actually lift the cab would be incredibly helpful.
 

Awesomeness

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My search skills here are pretty crummy unless I know exactly what I am looking for... Is there a string of information here about replacing those rubber cab mounts? I am going the other way - installing a winch - and I was looking at how to replace the right side cab support. Those rubber "biscuits" on my truck look like they are about to fall apart with splits all the way around them :-( .

Where to actually lift the cab would be incredibly helpful.
We just put a jack under the floor, in front of the passenger tire, with a 4x4 cut to length to reach from the jack to the floor (and another hunk of board to spread the load). You don't really have to "lift" it, just support it and maybe move it an inch.
 

Mullaney

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We just put a jack under the floor, in front of the passenger tire, with a 4x4 cut to length to reach from the jack to the floor (and another hunk of board to spread the load). You don't really have to "lift" it, just support it and maybe move it an inch.
THANKS! I will get out there and look at it from that angle... Floor jack happens to already be out there where we were supporting the back of the winch to bolt it up. I appreciate the info. Now to find some biscuits that aren't old and crusty like what I already have...
 

Awesomeness

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You do have to take some of the bumper (and its brackets off), at a minimum, to get the cab mount with roller fairlead out. Ideally you'd take the whole bumper off, but it is possible without.

The "biscuits" are the upper and lower cab mounts. You can find them on eBay and stuff. I don't make those yet... getting close though.
 

Mullaney

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You do have to take some of the bumper (and its brackets off), at a minimum, to get the cab mount with roller fairlead out. Ideally you'd take the whole bumper off, but it is possible without.

The "biscuits" are the upper and lower cab mounts. You can find them on eBay and stuff. I don't make those yet... getting close though.

You are the guy who makes the polyurethane sway bar bushings. Neat! Yes sir. Several people I mentioned my "biscuits" being shredded suggested that spending a few more bucks for poly would be smart. Then they saw one of these (they all work on cars and pickups) and understood that the possibility of getting anything other than OEM was pretty low.

Yes, If you plan on making these biscuits in poly count me in! I figure it will be worth the time and effort to replace them a second time. That would make the life expectancy for the truck longer than its owner. :)
 

Awesomeness

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You are the guy who makes the polyurethane sway bar bushings. Neat! Yes sir. Several people I mentioned my "biscuits" being shredded suggested that spending a few more bucks for poly would be smart. Then they saw one of these (they all work on cars and pickups) and understood that the possibility of getting anything other than OEM was pretty low.

Yes, If you plan on making these biscuits in poly count me in! I figure it will be worth the time and effort to replace them a second time. That would make the life expectancy for the truck longer than its owner. :)
I use a special 3D printer to make the master patterns for the molds. The one I have now is smaller, and would require a bunch of hassle to separate that cab bushing shape into multiple pieces, then reassemble them. I'm waiting for a larger model to be released, which was originally supposed to be out in September, but will finally be available very soon. Then I can start making the cab bushings too.

The danger of using NOS bushings is that it's hard to tell how old they are. I bought one real OEM cab bushing, to take accurate modeling dimensions from, and it broke in half inside the shipping box before it even made it to me! I'm glad I didn't need it to actually go on the truck.
 

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Mullaney

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I use a special 3D printer to make the master patterns for the molds. The one I have now is smaller, and would require a bunch of hassle to separate that cab bushing shape into multiple pieces, then reassemble them. I'm waiting for a larger model to be released, which was originally supposed to be out in September, but will finally be available very soon. Then I can start making the cab bushings too.

The danger of using NOS bushings is that it's hard to tell how old they are. I bought one real OEM cab bushing, to take accurate modeling dimensions from, and it broke in half inside the shipping box before it even made it to me! I'm glad I didn't need it to actually go on the truck.
Wow! That is pretty sad. I was just pricing them - and cost is all over the place. From what I can tell, $200 is about as cheap as I could find a set of 4 LMTV Cab Bushings. Two upper, Two lower and I don't think that included delivery. Found them for considerably more. And as expected they are all "NOS" which could be great or might be like what you got.

There are a LOT of things that got slowed down by this stupid china virus. I guess your new printer was one of them. Sad. Although I am excited to know that there is a real use for them in this environment!

I am in the printing business for my "Day Job" and that supports my green addiction. All the trade publications say that every printer needs to be getting into the 3D modeling business. That it is the next big thing supposedly. I have yet to have anyone ask about it here or find anything other than plastic gears (and they don't hold up very well at all) that we could make for ourselves. Have a friend with a small machine. He makes neat stuff, but nothing yet that is generating any revenue.

When you get your new hardware - let me know. Maybe I can be your first customer for these bushings! Reading in several places, it appears that this same set of four are used on the 9xx Series trucks too. Maybe that is why yours were DOA. Maybe they were 1984 like my M936 is...
 

Awesomeness

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Although I am excited to know that there is a real use for them in this environment!

I am in the printing business for my "Day Job" and that supports my green addiction. All the trade publications say that every printer needs to be getting into the 3D modeling business. That it is the next big thing supposedly. I have yet to have anyone ask about it here or find anything other than plastic gears (and they don't hold up very well at all) that we could make for ourselves.
3D printers are very useful tools. I'm a mechanical engineer, and between work and my own engineering consulting / prototyping side business, I'm constantly making functional parts on them.

One of the most significant reasons "regular people" don't have as much use for them is that you have to have a good 3D model to print. Any knucklehead can snap a photo with their cell phone, edit it on their computer, and need something printed on paper. 3D modeling is a more specialized skill, with a much steeper learning curve, so you don't have nearly as many people who can generate content for it.

But as 3D modeling skills proliferate, and companies embrace the customization/replacement of components, there will be more models available to print. I already sell a handful of 3D printed LMTV parts/tools, and have been casually looking into a place/way to sell my models inexpensively to those who have access to print them themselves.
 

Mullaney

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3D printers are very useful tools. I'm a mechanical engineer, and between work and my own engineering consulting / prototyping side business, I'm constantly making functional parts on them.

One of the most significant reasons "regular people" don't have as much use for them is that you have to have a good 3D model to print. Any knucklehead can snap a photo with their cell phone, edit it on their computer, and need something printed on paper. 3D modeling is a more specialized skill, with a much steeper learning curve, so you don't have nearly as many people who can generate content for it.

But as 3D modeling skills proliferate, and companies embrace the customization/replacement of components, there will be more models available to print. I already sell a handful of 3D printed LMTV parts/tools, and have been casually looking into a place/way to sell my models inexpensively to those who have access to print them themselves.
You say "Regular People" can snap a picture with their cell phones... You should be in the printing business and see some of the gosh-awful stuff we get! They say "Oh, well it looked really nice when I took the picture." We get a 72dpi 4 inch by 5 inch picture and they want a 24x36 inch poster... That is the simple version of the problems that we face every day. You would understand - because you deal with people too - but sometimes it amazes me what people will give us to work with.

About 20 years ago I used to do 3D modeling for a machinist friend of mine. He bought a CNC machine to build engine parts with that he had been making "by hand" with half a dozen other machines. It amazed me what that machine could do!

We have a flatbed cutter that is a CNC router (and a host of other tools) It easily handles material up to about an inch thick. We cut a lot of aluminum and nylon and PVC based materials. So, it isn't a 3D printer but it does a lot of things for us and our customers. (Off the story telling Soapbox)

.
 
Last edited:

Celticlady

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to sell winch as a complete kit... you will need to remove the passenger front cab support (it has winch rollers attached) . So you must swap in a cab support from a non winch truck.

to sell winch as an incomplete kit is potentially to NOT be able to sell any of it at all so might as well start looking for a front cab support.
Saw this thread searching for info on changing the biscuits.

To sell the OEM winch" complete" as a "kit" you also need to remove the hydraulic reservoir under the air cleaner and ALL the hoses and ALL wiring harness related to the winch, relays and hardware and the hand throttle. Don't forget all the rollers & brackets in the back.

ALL that is part of the OEM winch system.

My question: why did you buy a truck with a OEM winch?
 

Celticlady

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THANKS! I will get out there and look at it from that angle... Floor jack happens to already be out there where we were supporting the back of the winch to bolt it up. I appreciate the info. Now to find some biscuits that aren't old and crusty like what I already have...
Midwest Military Equipment sells new bushing as a kit 2 upper/ 2 lower for $108 on ebay and their webpage.
 

chucky

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My search skills here are pretty crummy unless I know exactly what I am looking for... Is there a string of information here about replacing those rubber cab mounts? I am going the other way - installing a winch - and I was looking at how to replace the right side cab support. Those rubber "biscuits" on my truck look like they are about to fall apart with splits all the way around them :-( .

Where to actually lift the cab would be incredibly helpful.
There are some good how to videos on youtube to change all the bushings top and bottom it took a 6 ft cheater pipe to break the passenger side nut on the bottom a 3/4 extenstion goes thru the hole in the bumper straight up to the nut 1 3/16th i think it was i just replaced the bottoms on mine the tops looked good my 1 inch ingesol rand tire gun wouldnt break the pass side the driverside just unbolt the infared light in the bumper to access the nut on that side
 

Mullaney

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Midwest Military Equipment sells new bushing as a kit 2 upper/ 2 lower for $108 on ebay and their webpage.
.
My M1088 came without a winch. One of the guys here on SS had a frame only truck left sitting in his yard. We made a deal and he even hauled to to my place for me. I affixed the tank and winch to the truck. Disassembled the roller fairleads and cleaned and greased them and one by one attached them to my truck. I have replaced the passenger front mount and dropped in the new "biscuit" at the same time.

I think the 4x4 donor truck and my 6x6 truck has one missing roller lead that mounts near the fuel tank. I need to find pictures to prove my point. I did what I did to my truck using my M1089 and it definitely seems that the missing piece will chew up my fuel tank. When I get a part number I can start my quest...

Sadly, the PTO flange where the hydraulic pump is bolted to was broken. NOT COMPLAINING. my deal was a good deal for sure. I will get that solved. The hoses are there. The block of metal with the Tach and three switches to activate the winch and PTO were part of the deal and I got those with wiring.

So, all things said there are a LOT of parts if somebody is trying to sell a winch kit it could easily have parts missing. Chances are that if there are missing parts it could be accidental. Might not be that way too...
 
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