Winch Teardown Q

[NDT]

Make a through cut inside the bore with a long metal cutting blade in your Sawzall. Then you can easily pull it out. A slide hammer bearing puller similar to a dent puller will work too.

 

[wascomatw74]

jckife give crush bearings down by the main post office a try for bearings,bushings an seals. call me if you need directions. we get a lot of odd bearings and seals from them. good bunch to work with.

 

[JCKnife]

jckife give crush bearings down by the main post office a try for bearings,bushings an seals. call me if you need directions. we get a lot of odd bearings and seals from them. good bunch to work with.

I already ordered these from White Owl but thanks for the heads up. Hey I heard somebody got a 5-ton!

 

[wascomatw74]

no i got 2 m54a2 w/w and m291a2 expansive van. plus all the stuff in the van.

 

[JCKnife]

Make a through cut inside the bore with a long metal cutting blade in your Sawzall. Then you can easily pull it out. A slide hammer bearing puller similar to a dent puller will work too.

This was great advice, worked like a charm--thank you. The new bearing sleeve is in.

NOW, on to the part where I'm inserting the drive shaft with its big brass gear into the housing end with the worm gear. Per the TM I've got the rear bearing in and the worm gear pressed into that. The TM says to hold up on the worm gear while I insert the shaft and mesh the gears together. It's just not happening. Any advice on this step?

 

[NDT]

The bull gear goes in first, then screw the worm into it and tap the shaft into the worm bearing as it advances into the bull gear. Polish and lube up the worm shaft real good so it will go into the bearing easy. This is as memory serves me, it's been a while.

 

[Katahdin]

I'm nearing the same point, good thread timing! I've got some rust to clean up on the worm gear. Its currently sitting in a bath of rust evaporator. Tomorrow I'll try glass beading it in my little blast cabinet.

An old lead hammer worked well for pounding out the worm gear shaft after heating the housing with the torch. Turning the worm gear away from the hammer after each whack seemed to help too.

Glad I'm glad I'm taking the time to do this exercise, I also have new bearings on order thanks to Mr. G's post with the bearing number and specs.

 

[JCKnife]

OK the worm gear is back in with both bearings.

Man this is pretty frustrating when the TM is just plain wrong. First, above, it told me to put the worm gear in first. THEN--have a look at frame 7 attached here. All the text is about the gearcase cover (the big round disc that covers the end of the assembly) yet the picture and numbers are pointing at the brake box--which we are NOT even installing yet. This whole frame is just totally wrong!!

 

[NDT]

Part of my job is to write work instructions for manufacturing. I have made those kinds of mistakes lots of times. Which method did you use to reassemble?

 

[JCKnife]

Which method did you use to reassemble?

Keeping the worm gear in the bearing it was already in, I pressed both out and inserted the drive shaft / big gear. Then pressed the worm gear / rear bearing assembly back in and pressed the other side bearing on. Like butter. Used old bearings of the same size as spacers for the arbor press.

 

[JCKnife]

Does this seal go in just as I have it sitting?


Edit: I figured it pretty much HAD to so I went ahead and pressed it in.

 

[Katahdin]

You're in luck, I took these pictures today just before I punched the old seals off mine. The outer lip goes on the numbered side of the plate.

 

[JCKnife]

Looks like my new seal is a little different than yours (and from my old ones as well). I'm actually doing 2 winches at once and the other one has a seal similar to yours, without a raised edge.

 

[JCKnife]

Ok in order to provide some value to future readers, here are McMaster-Carr parts used in winch rebuilding:

Brake Adjusting Screw: 3/8-24 4" partially threaded Part# 91257A665 (pack of 10)

Brake adjusting screw O-ring (aka "preformed packaging") Part # 9452K21 (pack of 100)

Cable set-screw: 1/2-13 x 5/8" Part# 92313A709 (pack of 5)

I am going to have several extra of the above if anyone needs some.

 

[JCKnife]

Big mistake today: rebuilding my 2nd winch I cross-threaded the brake adj. bolt (going into a brand-new brake band). The threads are screwed up now.

I don't see any 3/8"-24 cage nuts on McMaster-Carr. Even Google doesn't find them. So I'm guessing I need to either get another brake band, use some other kind of nut (Not likely)...or possibly find one of the brake bands I took out and scavenge the nut off it (but I think I threw it away).

NEVERMIND--typical Panic-Post-Think-Act for me. I was able to force a bolt in straight and it seems to have corrected the threads. Doing it IN the assembly under pressure will be a challenge but will get it done.

 

[JCKnife]

OK legit new question: what size are the 6 bolts that hold the brake box cover on? It's looking to me like they are 5/16-18 thread with 1/2" length but according to my calipers, that's not EXACTLY right. I'm figuring only G-man can answer this one. Otherwise I'll wait until I'm going to Lowes and try them in their little sizing cards.

 

[gringeltaube]

........It's looking to me like they are 5/16-18 thread.....

That's correct.
Exact length is 5/8" minus 0.03" (for the assembled external star lock washer)


G.







Hey, every M35W/winch-owner could respond that Q... they are just a bit lazy...!

 

[JCKnife]

That's correct.
Exact length is 5/8" minus 0.03" (for the assembled external star lock washer)


G.

Hey, every M35W/winch-owner could respond that Q... they are just a bit lazy...!

Wow, someone has switched mine over to shorter ones, then--they measure .60 inches! But I'll go ahead and order 5/8 with new star washers--thanks!

 

[gringeltaube]

That's a joke, or...?

5/8" = .625", so your's would be perfectly OK for what they have to hold...

G.

 

[JCKnife]

No, the ones I had are kinda mangled up. I want to get brand new ones, that's why I was checking.

Thank you!