Winch Teardown Q

[cev65]

Got the key ways out and everything done with the winch tonite. Goin to put it back on the truck tomorrow. I had to beat the bejesus out of them to get them out. Thanks for the input!

 

[SSG Gibb]

I'll be starting to replace the seals in My winch and was looking for good advice and info. This thread is a better read then then a Dime novel ANY DAY of the week! THANKS to all who posted on here for the great info!
SUBSCRIBED!!!

 

[goodwithwood35]

Reviving an old thread here but it proved its weight in gold with a problem I had with the shifter not aligning with the in/out detents. After researching here on this post and he attached posts, my shaft was also twisted. I calculated my clutch shaft to be 163 degrees from keyway to keyway as opposed to the 173-180 degrees as Mr G mentioned. I ordered a new one from White Owl and there is a noticeable difference between the two. The one on the left is the old one as you can see the set screw hole is twisted out of alignment with the clutch handle keyway slot.

 

[goodwithwood35]

To clarify, I got this winch from CL. It appeared in great shape but had some leaks so I replaced all the seals and gave it a good cleaning. I never checked how well it shifted in/out (mea culpa). When putting it all back together, it shifted and locked in/out but could not get it to align with the factory drilled detents. I tore it down probably 7 times and it drove me crazy until I found this post!

 

[rustystud]

To clarify, I got this winch from CL. It appeared in great shape but had some leaks so I replaced all the seals and gave it a good cleaning. I never checked how well it shifted in/out (mea culpa). When putting it all back together, it shifted and locked in/out but could not get it to align with the factory drilled detents. I tore it down probably 7 times and it drove me crazy until I found this post!

Good job of troubleshooting the problem !

 

[MAZ537]

@Gringeltaube may I ask you for some dimensions of the sleeve please ?
Also do have any solution for an otherwise perfect worm shaft with pitted seal areas ???
Thank you

 

[NDT]

Speedi-sleeve.

 

[frank8003]

Speedi-sleeve.

learn something new everytime!
View attachment speedi-sleeve-size-listing.pdf

 

[ballencd]

Troubleshoot M35 Winch Problem

Guys, I have a question and maybe a problem.

I purchased a used M35 winch about 8 years ago planning on putting it on my M35 which has since been converted to a dump with one rear axle. I was told the truck it came from had been rolled and he parted out the truck. I think I have all the parts including a new drive shaft he had had made. Two of the bolts on the top plate were broken off and I have since removed them but had to go to 5/8" vs the original 1/2" because they were stuck in there pretty good.
My question:
With the winch on the ground I can move the cable reel in both directions (after pulling the lock pin and putting the lock lever in neutral on the winch itself). The problem is when I try to turn the input to the winch by hand with a 6" punch in the shear pin hole I can turn it CCW but not a bit of movement when trying to turn it CW. Should I be able to turn it both directions? I figure I should. What do I look at/take apart to find the issue? I hate to disassemble the entire winch if it is nothing to be concerned about.
Inquiring minds want to know. Thanks for your input. ballencd

 

[gringeltaube]

........... I can turn it CCW but not a bit of movement when trying to turn it CW. Should I be able to turn it both directions? ...........

YES, with that punch you should be able to turn the shaft both ways; that is, easily in the CCW direction - and feeling quite some resistance, when turning it CW.

Here is an old thread to read.... Your brake band may be a bit too tight. Try loosening the adjuster bolt. If that doesn't help then remove the brake housing front cover and inspect all brake components, especially the coil spring. If everything else is OK - and with the brake band completely removed, the shaft can be turned by hand, either way, with no tools at all.


G.

 

[ballencd]

Gringeltaube,

Thanks for the quick response! I bent my punch in the CW test and will try the brake loosening trick before I proceed. The post you referred me too was helpful and interesting. Thanks for finding it as I looked but had no success.

I'll let you know how I fare when I get a chance to get back to it.

Thanks

ballencd

 

[ballencd]

Gringeltaube,
Hello again, First chance to try again today. I found a straight slot plug on lower passenger side housing of winch that I think is the brake drag adjustment cover but I could not get it to budge. I suspect I will have trouble getting every bolt out of the aluminum as I did the broken bolts earlier. : (

Question one: I can easily (relative) move the cable drum in both directions grabbing it with gloves and both the clutch and the lock pin disengaged. Does that mean the brake is not tight and I should be able to spin the input shaft in both directions easily?

Question two: Can I remove the two cross members and the threaded rod and pull off either end of the winch easily without taking anything else apart for a visual inspection.
Question three: Is question two the way I should head on this? I haven't been able to get any oil fill/drain ports loose yet either so I suspect I should start taking it apart. boo.

Thanks

ballencd

 

[gringeltaube]

If you don't have already... then I'd suggest to download TM 9-3830-206-34P. At least it will help you to identify each component.

That plug you are referring to is #46, in Fig.3. It is only a set screw for the coil spring preload, to adjust the drum brake action.
This has nothing to do with your initial issue, which I think is the pinion brake not correctly adjusted. That one is on the drivers side; that six-bolt cover and what happens behind it...

A. to 1): With the drum clutch disengaged you can turn the drum by hand, in either direction, yes - but you should feel quite some drag. That is if... that drum brake is actually working and adjusted as it should.

A. to 2): Yes, but not either side. Start with removing the pass. side clutch housing. After that it will look like this:

A. to 3): Yes.

 

[ballencd]

I was hoping for a different answer. : ( I have the TM you indicated but I will print it. Looks like I could be headed for a complete rebuild of this thing but will take it apart slowly and see if it has an easy fix before I take it to parade rest. I have never taken any type of gearbox apart before and had so much trouble on the broken bolts that I am very hesitant to begin. I guess it will not jump in there working on its own though. Thanks for the responses!
ballencd

 

[ballencd]

Winch Progress

I have taken both ends of the winch apart. The input end was dry but everything looks ok. The band brake was too tight and had lots of residue from the brake shoe stuck in there. I pulled the drum and cleaned all loose rust/grit from it using a bench grinder with a wire brush and then put it all back together.
The passenger side came apart very easily. I found a small amount of oil in that side and nothing at all looks bad. The issue is how do I put it back together? Three parts fell out when I lifted the end. I think I can get them all back in but positioning of the thinest piece with the indentions on the outer edge is not very well documented in the TM and getting the fork back in the holes looks to be a challenge. Any tips on getting it back together? No pictures on the passenger side yet. I'll try to get the part I'm confused about in here soon.

 

[ballencd]

The picture above of the drum is after cleanup. It looks like it could use a light machining but I'm thinking its not that important as long as it turns and can be tightened enough to hold a load. Seems like several folks on here have removed the brake altogether. The brake shoe material still has about 1/16" + before the rivet will get touched so I put it back together.

 

[ballencd]

Another Question About Disassembly of the M35 Winch ...Please:

I am trying to remove the shaft that controls the winch clutch on the right side of the M35 front winch. I think it may be twisted as I cannot get it to lock in anywhere near the detents on the handle. I have the set screw out of the fork and the set screw cover and the shaft lock set screw removed. See picture...center and right side set screws removed. The cover on the left was removed but there was nothing under it...??
I cannot get the shaft to move out.....I have held the shaft and tapped on the base of the fork with a brass drift but it does not budge. Is there any trick to getting the shaft out?
What is supposed to be under the detent spring on the lever of the winch clutch? Mine has only the spring there.
Also...where might be a good place to get a seal kit and the aforementioned shaft if it indeed turns out to be twisted?
Thanks

 

[gringeltaube]

Is there any trick to getting the shaft out?

After reading post #4, and up to #13, you will know how to get that shaft out.

The cover on the left was removed but there was nothing under it...??

The left side plug - and the smaller, threaded through-hole underneath it - is there because the whole winch is made so that everything can be flipped, left to right.
After doing so, the clutch housing would be on the drivers side and for that, the shift shaft needs to go in from the opposite site and its set screw moved to that new location.

What is supposed to be under the detent spring on the lever

It takes a 7/16" bearing ball.

 

[ballencd]

Shaft is out



I got the shaft out. Looks to me to be bent and twisted! I'm looking for a replacement and some seals so I can put it back together. Thanks for the assist on the removal directions. Sorry about the mis-location of my posts. I hate computers! ballencd

 

[goodwithwood35]

I got the shaft out. Looks to me to be bent and twisted! I'm looking for a replacement and some seals so I can put it back together. Thanks for the assist on the removal directions. Sorry about the mis-location of my posts. I hate computers! ballencd

That’s a common problem, mine was the same way. Talk to George at White Owl Parts in NC. They have them. About $50.


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