winch torque???

[screamin t/a]

Hello, I am new to this site been searching a bunch and so far love it!!! Anyway, I just bought a garwood 5T winch for my truck (not military, just HD 4x4 recovery.) I inspected it and went over the TM's on using it. The winch is in great overall condition, just that it seems difficult to turn the shaft when the drum is engaged. The drum lock is not engaged either. I can barely turn it by hand in one direction, and I need a breaker bar to turn it the other direction. Should it be this difficult? I want to make sure it is operating correctly before I go and mount it up. Thanks!!!!

 

[NDT]

That is the drag brake doing what it is supposed to. You can adjust the tension if it is too much. It is inside the housing with the sheetmetal cover.

 

[gimpyrobb]

So, your putting a 5ton winch on a deuce?

 

[screamin t/a]

It is going into a 79 ford f250. Going to mount it to the frame with access from a hole in the bed floor. The cable will run between the frame and bed and go through a fairlead I am goint to mount on the bumper. It will be driven off a tranny pto with f/r. Hopefully will be a good setup!! what you guys think?

 

[tennmogger]

screamin t/a,

The mid-mounted winch fed front and rear can work great. Here's a link to a setup on one on my Unimogs.

http://www.rockymountainmoggers.com/bobmoglite.html

Those build pictures were spread out over several years so the dirtiest pics are the newest . Just be sure the pivot point (in my case on the rear frame member) feeds the winch correctly so it spools untouched by human hands.

Using a double line with sheaves both front and rear has an interesting benefit. You can attach to immovable objects front and rear and tension the winch cable (say along a steep side slope) then drive along the cable as it moves through the sheaves. Works slick to keep you from sliding off the hill.

This is also a good setup for attaching to said immovable object to winch another vehicle. Much of the tension is taken off the truck and placed on the "through" cable.

Clear as mud?

Bob

This truck is a 1957 model 404 Unimog made for the French Army and stationed in Germany all it's life. It was surplussed in '91 and I bought it out of a junk yard a few years later. The bed was added.

 

[screamin t/a]

hey tenn, your rig is awesome. I will not be doing the same setup as you though. I will just run the cable straight out the back, as I have a winch on the front already. This will be for the heavy pulls that will probably break the electric winch I have up front. thanks for the idea though sounds killer!!

Ok so the winch does power in if I force the shaft to rotate in reverse (3ft breaker bar). Is that normal? it works smooth powering in, i can pretty much do that by hand, and the drum lock and clutch lever all operate smoothly. I am just wondering that since this winch has been sitting a while if there may be some build on the brake that will "break up" once it gets some power to it? thanks

 

[gimpyrobb]

Well, your supposed to freewheel the cable out and power in. Thats what the brake is for, if something goes wrong while winching in, it will hold the load.

 

[screamin t/a]

yes, it freewheels just fine. I read all the tm's for winching also so I get the brake part. I was just concerned about it being able to power out, and whether it was stuck or not, and I wasn't sure how much torque it should have taken to rotate...thanks though

 

[m16ty]

So, your putting a 5ton winch on a deuce?

Gimpy, Does he mean 5 Ton as in a 10,000lb winch or as in a winch off a 5 ton truck? From what I'm gathering he means a 10,000lb (which equals 5 tons) winch off a deuce but I could be wrong.

 

[screamin t/a]

yes, I mean a 5 ton winch (10,000lb) off of a Deuce, sorry for the confusion...