• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

Winches; front, back and frame mounted.

chucky

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
6,557
18,808
113
Location
TN .
This design unbolts and is able to go to rear of truck and bolt up just like the front with quick conect battery cable ends and this mount allows you to still use towbar by just removing the tow hooksView attachment 873379View attachment 873380View attachment 873381View attachment 873382
To remove and swap ends i place the stand the radios were mounted on in the cab on my motorcycle lift and place it under the tray lift it a little take bolts out then pull truck away and turn around and back back up to the jack and reinstall to rear of truck plug n play no heavy lifting
 

coachgeo

Well-known member
5,051
3,379
113
Location
North of Cincy OH
To remove and swap ends i place the stand the radios were mounted on in the cab on my motorcycle lift and place it under the tray lift it a little take bolts out then pull truck away and turn around and back back up to the jack and reinstall to rear of truck plug n play no heavy lifting
hmmm.... well you would have to lift if your doing a "self recovery".... when I was considering this... thought of making a dolly with offroad fat bicycle ties on it so could easier roll it thru what ever elements got me stuck in the first place.
 

chucky

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
6,557
18,808
113
Location
TN .
hmmm.... well you would have to life if your doing a self recovery....
No my dancer girls would have to lift it ! They wouldnt think of letting me do all that heavy lifting and they LOVE to play in the mud anyways ! Oh and i forgot that if i need a tow but they dont have a stinger to put under the front axle they can lift the truck off the ground to tow by just using to clevis's on the winch tray ! you could swing the whole truck off that tray if you have enough crane !
 

chucky

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
6,557
18,808
113
Location
TN .
My collection of examples for when the day comes. I'll likely make a completely custom bumper of mod an A0 bumper (because the A1R bumper is crap due to all the metal BAE removed and you can bend it with your mind):

View attachment 873294

View attachment 873295

View attachment 873296

View attachment 873297

View attachment 873298

View attachment 873299

View attachment 873300

View attachment 873301

View attachment 873302

View attachment 873303
I would like to see more of this truck with 1/4 in plate over the frontend ? Reminds me of the cat in the northwest that armored up a D375 KOMATSU dozer and trashed out the town he lived in !!!
 

chucky

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
6,557
18,808
113
Location
TN .
hmmm.... well you would have to lift if your doing a "self recovery".... when I was considering this... thought of making a dolly with offroad fat bicycle ties on it so could easier roll it thru what ever elements got me stuck in the first place.
Copy that ! It would have to be BAAAAAAAADDD before i even let it enter my mind to relocate this winch in the field . Also im not going to just drive off in a mudhole if i can go around it ! LEARNED THOSE LESSONS IN MY TEENS ! a chainsaw is much better to have with you to make detours if the depth of a hole is not known ! At the end of the day these winches which includes all the electric ones are not going to get us out of a deep suction mudhole even with snatch blocks if you really sank it ! You will be calling some one with Dozier and winch on the back of that to come get you out .
 
Last edited:

chucky

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
6,557
18,808
113
Location
TN .
I wondered about putting a hefty electric in front of the bed, which could be used to haul heavy things into the back, or winch to the rear. Add an "A" frame to the rear shackle mounts and you'd have a crane of sorts.
The easyiest thing for a portabe winch is weld an islet/lunet under the tray the winch is bolted to and just hang the eye on the pinltle hitch and quick connect plug ! The winch can just hang down till theres tension on the cable and you could weld a chain/cable on each end of the winch to go to both d rings for more strength if needed
 

Ronmar

Well-known member
3,362
6,765
113
Location
Port angeles wa
To remove and swap ends i place the stand the radios were mounted on in the cab on my motorcycle lift and place it under the tray lift it a little take bolts out then pull truck away and turn around and back back up to the jack and reinstall to rear of truck plug n play no heavy lifting
Yea but can you do this with the front buried in a ditch and the pouring rain? Because in my experience, that is when you will need it on the other end of the truck…

Because of the weights and structure involved with a 20K winch, that was why I am looking at making a Foers config work. With a very little mod, I could even get it to pull out at least one side.

Genx, my build will have boxes hung down from the habitat, and the winch will be inside one(protected, out of the weather and pretty dam difficult to steal:)), with the line either running thru the compartments, or behind them. I don’t know, the spare tire location I am contemplating may blow this all out of the water:)

Out to winch the spare up into a test position right now…
 

chucky

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
6,557
18,808
113
Location
TN .
Ultimately the winches are a crutch/false sence of never being stuck if you have one ! And this is just my opinion but i feel i have failed to operate offroad to have to be to the point of having to get out and hope all the moons are alligned and i have something to that i might hook to try to pull myself out . Now look and see just how long your cable is? now cut that in half which now for most winches(except the military sidemounts) you have maybe 40 ft thats really short and chances are your not going to reach so did you bring a couple of 40.000 lb strength wire rope 100 ft rolls of cable and do you / most folks have a 40k snatch block most dont ! I operate offroad like i have 2 wheel drive and no winch or help so i take the path of least resistance and i dont put my equipment in places im not positive i can get thru or i find away around it and this will save you loads of time/money !
 

coachgeo

Well-known member
5,051
3,379
113
Location
North of Cincy OH
..... did you bring a couple of 40.000 lb strength wire rope 100 ft rolls of cable and do you / most folks have a 40k snatch block most dont !...
Really good points.

so when ever we design our winch system..... design it with as much cable/robe/straps (even if it is in separate pieces w/ways to connect them together) to equal the total amount (at least) of what was in the Military sidewinch spool.
 

chucky

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
6,557
18,808
113
Location
TN .
Really good points.

so when ever we design our winch system..... design it with as much cable/robe/straps (even if it is in separate pieces w/ways to connect them together) to equal the total amount (at least) of what was in the Military sidewinch spool.
The winch is useless without the rite acc / big snatch blocks lots of short cables to wrap around trees to anchor or change direction of pull to the side off of your airlift tubes ect atleast 2 =100 ft heavy cable rolled up they lay flat in your side boxs and dont take up much room stack stuff on top and dont try useing soft straps on the trees you will kill somebody when they let go long before 40k of pull is applied . If your concerned about the trees carry some cut up car tires to not impact the tree/s
 

GENX

Active member
129
218
43
Location
TX
You guy's have my mental incubator going. I am going to rethink my set up and design some sort of Foers config with a front winch and a snatch to race the cable back through the frame where it's engineered to go. In any event If I design a toolbox up against the frame where the winch would go I intend to at least allow passage for a future cable.

Ronmar I think it will be a challenge to mount an electric winch on the frame and have it spool off and on the same way the LMTV Hydraulic Winch spools. Are you going with the Sherpa?
 

Attachments

Guruman

Not so new member
You guy's have my mental incubator going. I am going to rethink my set up and design some sort of Foers config with a front winch and a snatch to race the cable back through the frame where it's engineered to go. In any event If I design a toolbox up against the frame where the winch would go I intend to at least allow passage for a future cable.

Ronmar I think it will be a challenge to mount an electric winch on the frame and have it spool off and on the same way the LMTV Hydraulic Winch spools. Are you going with the Sherpa?
I think the challenge for a mid mounted electric is that the winch drum runs the wrong way. I don't know of any electric winches that are designed to pull from the top of the drum. I think you'd have to make it spin around, which would require re-routing the cable. you might be able to rig a foers setup with an electric, maybe by using a longer than stock cable to account for the portion of cable that never gets wound on the drum to maximize the available cable length.


I think the long pole in the tent for a foers setup with the factory winch is that you have to pass the cable by the drum on your way back out the other end. I'm thinking of putting the turn-around in the rear as it's less "busy" than the front. I might be able to use either a large pulley or maybe a couple of pulleys to route the cable back forward.

When running to the rear the cable spools off the top of the winch drum (I think). I'd route this high along the frame rail and around a pulley or two exiting towards the front low enough to pass under the winch drum and though the factory routing out the front.

I'm considering mounting one or more beefy hooks to the frame in the rear, and simply attaching one or more snatch blocks to act as the pulleys (maybe removing the taillight housing and putting lights in the bed frame, out of the way). That way, when I was double line winching off the rear, I could just detach the snatch block(s) from the truck and attach them to the load or anchor. When finished, jsut draw in the slack cable, re-hook the snatch blocks to the hooks and tighten the slack out of the line to hold everything steady.

Maybe.
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks