Windshield pivot assembly bolt removal.

[Morc66]

Hi folks. Recently bought my first MV, a 1968 M35A2 (with a 1991 Hercules multifuel turbo and a 1988 Rockwell transfer case??) I'm currently working on restoring the windshield, both windows were cracked and passenger side frame rotted. So far I've got the main assembly and both widow frames primed and painted and ready to put back together. I cannot for the life of me get the windshield pivot assembly bolts out. Well I got one out, but not without trashing the threads. So, I'm looking for either tips on removing the second one, I've tried pressing it out with a compressed air bottle jack under the deuce axle and it just lifted the whole truck, or a source for new bolts (worst case, 2 new assemblies) which I cannot find anywhere online.
Thanks in advance for any input!

 

[rustystud]

Hi folks. Recently bought my first MV, a 1968 M35A2 (with a 1991 Hercules multifuel turbo and a 1988 Rockwell transfer case??) I'm currently working on restoring the windshield, both windows were cracked and passenger side frame rotted. So far I've got the main assembly and both widow frames primed and painted and ready to put back together. I cannot for the life of me get the windshield pivot assembly bolts out. Well I got one out, but not without trashing the threads. So, I'm looking for either tips on removing the second one, I've tried pressing it out with a compressed air bottle jack under the deuce axle and it just lifted the whole truck, or a source for new bolts (worst case, 2 new assemblies) which I cannot find anywhere online.
Thanks in advance for any input!

Are you talking about the "wing bolts" that tighten to hold the windows open ? If so, they are "crimped" to prevent the bolts from loosening and falling off. Use a good penetrating spray and work it loose that way. Then go and buy new bolts. "Eriks" and "White Owl" both sell the bolts.

 

[frank8003]

~ my first MV, 68 M35A2 ~ restoring the windshield ~ cannot get the windshield pivot assembly bolts out ~ one out trashing the threads ~ I'm looking for either tips on removing the second one ~ source for new bolts ~ Thanks in advance for any input!

Notice that so many of the bolts of the truck are NF threads so soak them in give it time to work with your Kroil or ATF mix or whatever you use, soak them good.
It is always good to know the fastener specifications before taking things apart.
Pictures for the general, NOT, due to scanner failure.
So goto TM 9-2320-361-34P figure 138 in section II and the page after that 138-2 and it lists all the part numbers shown.
Also goto TM 9-2320-361-24-2 work package 0229 00 (the last picture in the package) maybe a better picture of it all.
Say which pivot assembly bolts you having trouble with ....................
A center drill and left hand drill and tap drill comes to mind after the use of a thin wafer wheel in the Dremel. Sometimes cutting of the head of fasteners allows disassembly and what is left one can get the vise grips onto.

 

[gimpyrobb]

Yes, are asking about the hinge bolts at the top of each window, or the whole frame?

Sounds like the window hinges at the top, which should be Phillips head screws. They are no fun to get out if rusted in place.

 

[NDT]

He's talking about the windshield pivot hinges that allow the windshield to fold down on the hood.

 

[gringeltaube]

Specifically, this bolt....




I have had them out, but only after applying some good heat.

 

[Floridianson]

Notice that so many of the bolts of the truck are NF threads so soak them in give it time to work with your Kroil or ATF mix or whatever you use, soak them good.

I seem to find a week works better than day and a day works better than hours. Sometimes you don't have the time but if you can think ahead it will put you ahead.

 

[Morc66]

Yes, that's the one, that lets the whole assembly fold onto the hood. I haven't tried ATF yet. Just had surgery on both wrists so can't do much for next 2 weeks, this will override my impatience gene and give me an excuse to soak the second one and try again. Hoping I can fix the thread on the one that's messed up.

 

[Morc66]

Kroil vs ATF

So the Kroil/ATF is new to me, did a little research and found the following:



"The April/May 2007 edition of Machinist's Workshop did a test of
> penetrating oils where they measured the force required to loosen
> rusty test devices. Buy the issue if you want to see how they did
> the test. The results reported were interesting. The lower the
> number of pounds the better. Mighty interesting results for simple
> acetone and tranny fluid!

> Penetrating oil . Average load .. Price per fluid ounce
> None .................. 516 pounds .
> WD-40 .............. 238 pounds ... $0.25
> PB Blaster ......... 214 pounds .. $0.35
> Liquid Wrench ... 127 pounds .. $0.21
> Kano Kroil ........ 106 pounds .. $0.75
> ATF-Acetone mix.. 53 pounds .. $0.10

> The ATF-Acetone mix was a 50/50 mix (1 to 1 ratio)."

I've been fighting rusty/seized bolts on Jeep's for years and wish I'd known this sooner!

 

[frank8003]

Specifically, this bolt....

View attachment 751770
I have had them out, but only after applying some good heat.

For me the Kroil worked then I worked moving that deal up and down many times.
I wanted it to work as per design and I and the Kroil won.

Lot of fun driving around the city and down dragging the beach like that.
It was worth all the time and effort, job cost almost nothing.

 

[gringeltaube]

...I wanted it to work as per design and I and the Kroil won. ....

... and I wanted it a little better than that....
.... So I disassembled the whole thing, de-rusted and cleaned everything, then drilled a small hole through the upper hinge part, so that it could be greased with a needle nozzle (and using synth grease only).
Good for another 50 years...

 

[gimpyrobb]

I usually unbolt them from the truck and put them in the vise. 50/50 atf acetone gets in the joint well and a little heat finishes it off.

 

[frank8003]

... and I wanted it a little better than that....
.... So I disassembled the whole thing, de-rusted and cleaned everything, then drilled a small hole through the upper hinge part, so that it could be greased with a needle nozzle (and using synth grease only).
Good for another 50 years...
View attachment 751789

I have seen many photos of different parts of the "gringeltaube truck" and may I suggest you
use only edible grease because we could eat right off that truck!
I would like to see more of those Photos.

 

[gringeltaube]

 

[Morc66]

Now you've got me thinking of adding a couple of zirk fittings!