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Wiring harness cut/hack/piece, cannon plugs, etc.

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Santoken

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Has anyone tried making their own wire harness?

I'm nearly finished with my GMC's retoration, and it has not easy. I really haven't cut any corners yet. I've replaced everything that needed so with NOS or exact replacement NEW parts. Now I find that ABLinn and Memphis Equipment neither one has the required NOS wiring harnesses that I need. After checking with Vintage, I've decided that I will not spend the amount of money on a new harness. I guess I work too hard for my money to justify $775 in wiring.

Anyway, I've started on a project that I'm sure will turn interesting, that is making my own wire harnesses. With this, I guess I have several questions that maybe someone can help:

1) Does anyone know what series of Packard connector or Mil Spec the connectors for the Cannon plugs and the Douglas connectors are?

2) Has anyone else done this? If so, any pointers regarding tools for proper disassembly of the Cannon plugs? And, with that, tools or procedures regarding reassembly?

3) Is there any thoughts on a TM for Electrical Wiring repair, assembly, disassembly, etc?

4) Does anyone have any sources for the Packard terminals found in the Cannon plugs? I have an aftermarket source for the terminals found in the Douglas connections.

I plan on making a wire harness that will look EXACTLY like the original. I don't intend on just cutting off wires from cannon plugs and taping new ones on.

Thanks so much!
 
Todd Haley

Todd Haley

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<font color="blue">Hey Kent,
There is a kit for doing what you are planning. I got mine from a surplus store. It's got all the tools for pin removal from the cannon plugs and the crimpers to attach the pins and sockets to the wire,all the connector shells,plastic connectors and rubber seals.the kit I had even had a supply of blank wire tags.The crimpers are special,they crimp the connector in three places and keeps it round. the only other crimpers I have seen like them are in a Caterpillar wiring repair kit
Unfortunatly, I sold my kit a few years ago and can't remember the part number<img src="emoticons/icon_smile_sad.gif" alt="Sad"> try doing a search for military wiring repair or something like that.
Building a harness is easier than it sounds as long as you got the right tools. When I'm building a harness I pull the old one and lay it on the floor then start laying the new wiring out beside the old stuff,copying the bends and splices to the new harness. Take your time and don't get frustrated and you'll end up with a new harness that looks and fits just like the original one!
I have some terminal tools at work,I'll get the part numbers from them and post here tomorrow night.(sorry for the rambling!<img src="emoticons/icon_smile_approve.gif" alt="Approve">) </font id="blue">
 

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Santoken

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I was able to remove the female connectors from the cannon plug with a 3/32" pin punch. I'm still not sure how I'm gonna remove the male conectors.

Yeah, I have a general idea of the crimpers you are talking about. They are real heavy duty, spring loaded with a ratchet mechanism. The ratchet will not release the pliers until the crimp is fully made.

Regarding crimping, I think I'm gonna go the direction of solder instead. I just like a soldered connection better. The terminals appear to be silver or at least silver plated, so that adds to the challenge...no big deal really.

Anyone know how if you can/should/need to remove the rubber from the cannon plug housing? I took an old housing and split it. It has a pretty decent ridge inside the housing that retains the rubber. I think I should leave it in and then just insert the terminals instead of inserting them into the rubber and try to get the rubber with terminals back into the housing.

Last night, I made the engine harness (need to put the ends on it yet) and it looks nice. The wire I'm using doesn't have the same thickness of insulation as the original harness, so it looks much smaller in diameter. But, I was able to make the engine harness in about 30 minutes.

I found the way to make that harness was to lay the old one on the floor, take all you measurements, then make a schematic of it. Then, add the 'tape starts here', wire 33 exits the harness there, etc.

Thanks for the help!
 
Todd Haley

Todd Haley

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Location
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<font color="blue">Kent,
Here's the part# for the tool I used to remove the pins, <font color="black">GM12014012-17J0848 </font id="black">I got it from Packard but it should be available elswhere. It's just a little tube with a handle. It pushes over the pin and spreads the rubber away from the pin lock, then just pull on the wire and the pin will come right out. Don't forget to unscrew that compression cap on the rear of the plug before you insert the tool or it will cut the rubber! </font id="blue">
 
T

Tony

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Kent,
You stated that the wire you are using don't seem to be as large as the ones you are replacing, make sure that you are using the proper gage wire, if too small will heat up and get fried
 
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Santoken

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Yeah, I'm on it. I said that I didn't have the same thickness of insulation...not wire thickness. All wiring, except for noted circuits in the manual, is 14 guage. The old wiring seems to have nearly twice the thickness insulation as to what you can buy today. I have checked several of my wire suppliers and all seems the same. I think it will work just fine, just doesn't look OEM.
 
Tanner

Tanner

Active member
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Kent -

I don't know where you're located, but I work in the connector industry for Powell Electronics (www.powell.com) - My days are spent quoting Amphenol/Tyco-AMP/Raychem/Glenair/etc connectors, tools & components for contractors doing work for power & comm needs on various Military land/sea/air vehicles - Powell has branches covering the US, with my office covering the Carolinas & the Virginias... We have a $75 min order -

Also, most of the connectors I see sold today for Mil use are crimp-style, as newer lines of thinking are more concerned with ease of field repair & the lessening or dissimilar metal corrosion from soldering -

I'm a newbie here on SS, but can try to offer my services on connector locating...

"Tanner"
Bryan Ayers
Raleigh, NC
 
D

DDoyle

Well-known member
Supporting Vendor
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West Tennessee
NOS harnesses for the M135 and M211 are readily available, so I wouldn't consider trying to "build" one. I got mine from either Vermont Commercial Salvage or from Brian Asbury - I don't remember which.

Hope this helps,
David Doyle
 
Recovry4x4

Recovry4x4

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Steel Soldiers Supporter
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You can back track to George (Vt Commercial Salvage) through Ebay, His seller name is VTCSM37. Asbury (519)853-1738. He's out of Ontario Canada.
 
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