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wiring help

slotman

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Location
29 palms ca
I have a 24V to 12 V converter - 10 amp output at 13.2 V. I want to put an auxilary 12 V battery under the seat of my deuce. Can I use this converter to charge this battery? If so, do I need a regulator to regulate amount of amps converter puts out so as not to overload it and also regulate power into battery so it doesn't overcharge? If anyone has done this, and has a source for a part for doing this (and part number). A wiring diagram would also be helpful. The reason I am using an auxilary battery because occasionally I will be drawing more then 10 amps for auxilary equipment which the converter itself will not handle. Any and all help will be most appreciated, and I thank you in advance.
 

cbvet

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With an output of 13.2 volts it will charge a battery pretty well. Most automotive charging systems put out 13.5 to 14 volts.
A cutoff switch between the converter & the batterry, and a gauge on the battery, would tell you when it is fully charged.
I'm sure there's a way to regulate the charge automatically, but that's beyond my knowledge.
 

tco3129

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Flat Top W.V.
With what experiences I've had the converter CAN put out 10A but as the load decreases ie. battery becoming charged, the output lowers as the load decreases. I also agree with CBVET that a disconnect and meter are in order. without a monitoring circuit the converter would eventually boil the battery dry IMHO (ain't learned to draw on a computer yet but put battery in parallel with auxillary load and monitor with meter.
 
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slotman

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Location
29 palms ca
so, what u guys are saying is that the battery won't try to draw more than the 10 amp output of the converter and burn it out? even when the battery is only half charged. I agree that you could probably monitor the state of charge with a guage, so that it doesn't overcharge the battery. But, I was wondering if there isn't some small regulator available so that you could leave it on all the time, so that it would regulate and monitor itself like a normal charging generator does with its regulator.
 

cbvet

Active member
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The battery can't "try to draw" more amperage than the converter puts out.
And again, I'm sure there's a way to regulate it, but I don't know how it would be done.

I use two RV AC to DC power converters connected in series to make 24 (actually 27) volts for parts testing.
The older ones typically have two DC outputs. One is 12 volts to run automotive-type radios, lights, fans, etc. The other is 13.5 volts to charge the "coach" battery.
As far as I know, there's no regulator to control charge rate. I haven't had one ruin a battery yet.
 

tco3129

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As far as burning up your converter, the life or death of it is determined buy the quality of the unit. Buy cheap -- Get cheap. Buy top of line -- Get somewhere between cheap and top of line. Take the shot and give us updates. Don't take the shot and always wonder.2cents
 

Militoy

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Mojave Desert, CA
I agree you can probably get by just using your DC to DC converter just the way it is, though you won’t get the maximum charge or life out of the battery. If preventing electrolyte boil-off and the production of hydrogen gas is a big issue for you, or you are trying to maximize the life and efficiency of the battery – you might want to look into a more sophisticated system. A “totally correct” battery charger for lead-acid batteries will typically have 4 (sometimes 5) stages of charge. The first stage (“overcharge”) only programs in when the battery starts out with less than 50% of full charge. The charge current is limited in overcharge state to avoid boil-off of electrolyte or damage to the battery. Between 50-90% charge conditions, the battery can safely accept a charge at a faster rate, and the charger will go into the second stage (“bulk charge”). In the bulk stage, the current is set to the maximum that is safe for the battery design and the rating of the charger. At 90% charge, the charger will switch over to the “absorption” mode to top off the battery – charging at a constant voltage of between 13.8 and 15.5VDC. The ideal voltage varies with the temperature of the battery, and the most sophisticated chargers will have a battery temperature probe. A simpler charger will usually just be set somewhere around 14.5VDC in this stage. At 98-100% charge, the charger will shift to “float” mode – with the voltage lowered down to around 13.5VDC for flooded lead-acid batteries, and 13.2VDC for AGM types – again, to avoid boil-off. Some chargers add a 5th stage in between the absorption and float stages, where the voltage is raised around a volt above the normal float level for an hour or two, to equalize the charge in all the cells. This may sound overly complex – but the programming is just built into the control IC in the charger – and to the user, just plug it in and off you go. Hope this isn’t TMI.
 

3dAngus

Well-known member
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Perry, Ga.
You also run the risk of depleting your 24v batteries in your deuce, unless you charge while the truck is running. I would not do this overnight.
 

m-35tom

Well-known member
Supporting Vendor
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Location
eldersburg maryland
the short answer is that what you propose doing will not work. you just need a larger converter. there will be situations where the current draw on the 10 amp converter will be exceeded and the battery will never be really fully charged.

tom
 

JOEDEUCE

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richmond va
What kind of battery are you using, under your seat..... Hopefully a gel cell sealed battery is what youre using.... Having a lead acid battery , in the cab could be dangerous..
 
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Militoy

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Mojave Desert, CA
What kind of battery are you using, under your seat..... Hopefully a gel cell sealed battery is what youre using.... Having a lead acid battery , in the cab could be dangerous..
A gel cell can be dangerous as well - I've seen them "football" a number of times from being overcharged.
 
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