Wiring issues

Farmer1

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I’m new here. I just purchased a 1984 M1009 the previous owner converted to 12 v but did not know what he was doing. So now lights and running lights, glow plugs run off of a toggle switches no blinkers at all. Does any one have anything as a book that I can purchase that has pictures and tech specs to fix it where it works properly? Not opposed to turning it back to 24v system.
 

Recovry4x4

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We have a TM section linked above. The one with schematics is TM 9-2320-289-20. The schematics are in the appendix. Congrats and good luck. Unscrewing a CUCV that someone else has screwed up can be a challenge.
 

Skinny

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Well at least is wasn't owned by a fire or police department...those guys are getting paid to mess it up!

Sounds like it may not have been done on the 12v conversion but may have had a wiring issue which then spawned a 12v conversion thinking it was going to fix the problem only to find out those are all 12v anyway.

My suggestion is to just buy a good harness and be done with it. You will only have endless amounts of undoing and no confidence in the truck down the road.

Pics? I would start at the 12v bus terminal next to the wiper motor and work my way to the fuse panel. These circuits aren't rocket science.

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Bill Nutting

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Welcome aboard Farmer1. You are getting good advice from guys that know your vehicle. Skinny says a new harness is a good place to start and I agree. My 1951 M37 has a new harness ( installed in 2001) and I have had no wiring issues at all. I read on here a lot about butchered wiring and the time spent to sort it out. The good news about military vehicles is, every wire has a tag on it. You will find following the wires in the schematic is not all that difficult. This site has most, if not all of the TM’s (technical manuals) for your truck free to download. The TM’s cover everything. Access to the TM’s and the level of expertise on this site is worth WAY more than the cost to join.
Hope to “see” ya around. And by all means post pictures!
 

Farmer1

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Alabama
Thank all for the info here is a couple of pictures. Just got it yesterday looking forward to working on it. Also where do I find the TM at on your site? Like I said I’m new here and just learning your wonderful site! Thank all in advance for any information y’all through my way.
 

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Recovry4x4

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Are you on a phone or computer? Phone, click on the 3 white line upper left, scroll down to TMs. On a computer there is a row of sub categories under the Steel Soldiers banner, scroll all the wat to the right, click TM.
 

Farmer1

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Got it. Thank you. Does anyone have pictures of there engine compartment with the wiring in them? If so would you please post Sinai can see. Also where is a good place to order parts? Wiring harness, complete dash replacement, along with cluster. Last owner butchered everything.
 
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Farmer1

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Alabama
Ok i have order a wiring harness for under tha dash. Will order engine harness at a later date. Does anyone have a suggestion as to a instrument cluster the one in the truck is toast
 

Skinny

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Any vendor on here is a good one. I just ordered a grille blanket from Hillbilly, he is a good vendor.

Both of my 84' trucks are suffering from gauge problems. Of course the CUCV only has two and both are not even close to reading right. I mean they are 36 years old.

If you are going to spend big money on new replacement gauges I'd suggest going aftermarket electronic instead of OEM.

I'm a week away from installing an NVU six pack on my CUCV. They are spendy but I'm done with inaccurate factory gauges that are expensive and old. That's opinion of course but buy once cry once. Not to mention you get more info like temp, voltage, pressure, and tach all in one shot.

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Recovry4x4

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I just used my search engine to see what an NVU six pack was and I got nothing that looked like gauges. Curious as to what you haver Skinny.
 

Skinny

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This is what I have:

I got the Aviator set. I did read some reviews about the quality of fitment bit the reviews were old. I will be fitting them around Christmas. Probably will do a write-up.

I also got a 15% discount for the holidays which really pushed me to get them.

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Skinny

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I am doing a full set with two fuel gauges in the main cluster and the voltmeter where the CUCV one goes to the right.

We will see how bad the install goes in a few days.

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Farmer1

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Alabama
I have been working this truck for about a week now. So far got the wiring issues about fixed. I still have to build a wiring harness for the tail lights. Everything else is working as it should. I do have one question. I’m about ready to convert back to 24v system. I have been thinking about if for a while now. I’m wondering if anyone has ever thought about or done it or if it would cause problems. I’m thinking about wiring it up to where one alternator charges one battery and the other alternator charges the other battery but still working the 24v system to operate the starter. What do y’all think?
 

faststandard

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Birch Run/MI
Farmer1, what you are describing in your post above is exactly how the truck is setup from the factory. The driver's side alternator charges the front battery while the passenger side alternator charges the rear battery. Both batteries are wired in series to get to 24V. Both alternators is this arrangement are isolated ground units from the factory as well.
 

Farmer1

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Alabama
That’s great to know thank you. I have the wiring diagram. I will hook up per this. Thank you for all the help and information.
 

gimpyrobb

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This is what I have:

I got the Aviator set. I did read some reviews about the quality of fitment bit the reviews were old. I will be fitting them around Christmas. Probably will do a write-up.

I also got a 15% discount for the holidays which really pushed me to get them.

Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk
Looks pretty killer! Waiting to hear how it went for ya.
 

Skinny

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Install was like a negative 5 out of ten. That is not including the wiring which is probably equal to any gauge install. Basically cutting the factory plug, confirming wires, running additional wires, and programming. The physical fitting was terrible but overall finished product is pretty killer. I had the cluster out about 20 times. Surprised I didn't break my shifter needle.

I do need to remove the cluster again to Dremel two of the holes so my gauges line up. But it is final detail work that can wait for another day.

Some follow up troubleshooting...my tach will run away and indicate like 120,000 peak RPM when I run the blower. Probably need to shield the tach wire since it runs right over the blower in the engine bay. My voltmeter once decided to indicate like two lower volts then what it actually was but then went away on the next restart. May just have been a fluke.

I'd say if you can stomach the torturous fitting of the gauges I would recommend them.

For another post teaser...finishing up the CUCV bumper swap on my Dante's Peak Suburban. Plus I jammed two GC2 batteries in the spare tire wheel well.

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