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Wiring Question on M1165
- Thread starter jim1131
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rjf189
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- Arlington, VA
The TCM is 12V, and my truck also has a 12V auxiliary power outlet, but I thought both of those were just wired to one of the batteries.
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- 6,888
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- Papalote, TX
That lead goes to the connection between the batteries (12V source) it balances the voltage between the two batteries and compensates for the TCM draw.
I am installing a 24/12/60 battery equalizer and a fuse box for running my accessories off the battery, The TCM will also be rewired to the fuse box. Do you think its a good idea to disconnect the 14V lead from the regulator, i'm not sure if I should have the equalizer to the rear battery while having power coming in from the regulator as well
- 6,888
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- Papalote, TX
Do you have a link to the product?
I did a search and found a Sure Power unit, it looks to actually be a 24-12V converter, there was no connection to the 12V tap on the batteries.
Its a Vanner equalizer, heres the link.
https://www.invertersupply.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=29565
- 6,888
- 9,540
- 113
- Location
- Papalote, TX
I would think yes you would want to remove the 14V tap on the regulator, otherwise they could bump heads while trying to equalize.
Also the 14V tap is only good for 20A or so, if your 12V loads would be under 20A then you would not need an equalizer.
Also the 14V tap is only good for 20A or so, if your 12V loads would be under 20A then you would not need an equalizer.
Running lights and stereo, I think it will be more than 20 Amps and I do agree with removing the 14V lead from the regulator.
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- Brentwood, Calif
14v tap is rated at 50amps, not sure why anyone would remove it thus negating it purpose.
- 6,888
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- Location
- Papalote, TX
I did not realize it was good for 50A, I was under the impression it was 20-25A, there should be no reason for him to use an external equalizer, but if he is bound and determined to install a device that part of its job is to equalize the batteries I would think he would not want two devices trying to equalize the batteries.
Installing a battery equalizer to keep the rear battery charged when running my accessories. is the 14V tab sufficient enough to keep the battery charged while powering up the stereo, TCM and light bars. If thats the case it would save me the work of having to install the battery equalizer
- 6,888
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- Location
- Papalote, TX
RWH is of course correct.
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- 4,392
- 4,174
- 113
- Location
- Brentwood, Calif
just how often do you use light bar? Most light bars these days are LED and low draw…Stereo is another thing, but 99% of folks don’t use these trucks as daily drivers, so again…how often is everything on at any one time for any real length of time.
Ive never installed converter in 30yrs of hmmwv ownership, just make Sure whatever you wire up is switched off when ignition is off, same as the TCM power that feeds through transmission relay.
Is this the 12 v box you all are referring to? It looks like there’s (3) 25 amp fuses and (1) 15 amp fuse. It looks like there’s 3studs for 3 25 amp circuits. I’m not sure what that re-set button is or those other studs on the side. Everything in the box is coded red for hot and I’m not seeing a neutral/ground? (Maybe the two studs on the side??)
how many accessories can you safely run off this setup? I’m getting a system for power windows, need to set up some reverse lights, maybe an interior dome light, and will eventually get a backup camera and simple radio/stereo (just simple speakers no subs or any of that crap). Lights will be led to keep wattage down.
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- Brentwood, Calif
you need to unbolt the panal from the b-pillar, you will find both positive and negative grnd strips, they are wired to 24v.
the small 2 post strip is 12v, the red button is the transmission circuit breaker reset.
Ok so I took it off like you suggested. Just so I am clear….
the top row of studs in 24v and the much smaller green bar below is the 24v ground?
the two posts on the left, where my hand is holding the wire, that is the 12v stuff? I don’t see a separate 12v grounding strip for that. And then all of the 12v system would be on a 15 amp fuse?
the top row of studs in 24v and the much smaller green bar below is the 24v ground?
the two posts on the left, where my hand is holding the wire, that is the 12v stuff? I don’t see a separate 12v grounding strip for that. And then all of the 12v system would be on a 15 amp fuse?
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12V uses the same ground as the 24V does
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- Brentwood, Calif
yes, break out your multi-meter
I have a question about keyed accessories that are 12v.
Since the starter is 24v you can’t run 12v through the off-run-start ignition correct?
So, would a smart way to run 12v stuff, that turns off with the truck, be to run a power supply straight off the dual voltage regulator? Then there would only be power when the truck is on, and it wouldn’t be causing an imbalance with the batteries.
The panel behind my batteries is always on.
Since the starter is 24v you can’t run 12v through the off-run-start ignition correct?
So, would a smart way to run 12v stuff, that turns off with the truck, be to run a power supply straight off the dual voltage regulator? Then there would only be power when the truck is on, and it wouldn’t be causing an imbalance with the batteries.
The panel behind my batteries is always on.
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- Location
- Papalote, TX
The dual voltage regulator 14V tap is connected directly to the batteries, it is hot all the time so you will need to use a relay with a 24V coil, coil goes to a switched supply (ING terminal on the regulator is one place) and ground and the contacts going between the 14V tap on the batteries (or the 14V tap on the reg, more possibility of getting noise in communications equipment) and your switched 14V load.
REMEMBER to fuse both the switched 24V tap for the relay coil and the 14V tapping point to the relay.
And of course ANY relay added needs to have a diode across the coil to reduce reverse EMF.