Wiring up stuff (lights)

[rmgill]

What did you use for a switch on the gear shift lever for backup light function? My initial thought is to just turn it on.

Another question, where to hook it all in to get power? Direct from the batteries or off an accessory lead in the harness somewhere?

 

[cranetruck]

The back-up lights and alarm are turned on by a microswitch mounted in the path of the rod shown in the image below. The rod extends out an inch or so when the transmission is placed in reverse.
There is also a paddle switch (shown in the second image below the dual tank control panel), which turns it off when not desired.
The 28 volt supply is from the same circuit that supplies the tail lights.
The second paddle switch is the headlight override switch, which is wired in with the 50 amp relay and a separate circuit breaker.

 

[rmgill]

So that rod projects out of the transmission and moves further back, when put into reverse? Good place for that actually. So long as the transmission doesn't move around. Or is your switch mounted to the transmission?

 

[cranetruck]

The switch is mounted to the cross member. It has a lot of overtravel (typical for a limit switch) and there is
a loosely mounted copper tubing extension on the rod. A lot of movement can be tolerated.
One day when the cover is off, I'll take a few pictures.

 

[Desert Rat]

That would be really cool!

 

[cranetruck]

Always pictures, I know. Problem is that my brake pressure gauge is installed thru the tunnel cover and would have to be taken off first and the line bled when installed again. Not very smart, but but but that's the way it is.
Image of brake line pressure gauge below.

 

[Recovry4x4]

Here's the brakets! http://cgi.ebay.com/2-MILITARY-TRUC...Z6586623010QQcategoryZ588QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

 

[Armada]

If you are using this style light, they are too big for the brackets. I have both, brackets and lights, they will not fit.

 

[cranetruck]

Armada, that's an IR light. It may be installed without a bracket. Very heavy duty.

A note on the light guards above (Kenny's post); the kit shows painted parts but no paint piercing washers for grounding.
When you install these, make sure that you have a good ground path since some lights are grounded via the housing.

 

[cranetruck]

Here is the IR light mounted.
(From my file of pictures of unknown origin)
Note the headlight mounted in the low position, which is the "no winch" configuration.

 

[Armada]

Bjorn, yes they are very stout! I've got a couple to put on someday. The same housing is used with clear lamps too, I have several. My plan for mounting the clear ones was to use the brackets for additional protection and to mount them next to the marker lights since the bracket is set up for mounting on an angle. Now I've been thinking about fabbing a light bar across the top of the windshield and mount them to it, since the brackets won't work.
The IR looks good on top of the bumper too. Those lenses aren't cheap though, and I would worry about stones.

 

[rmgill]

Fab up a folding hinge/cover as part of the guard for the IR light to keep it from damage.

 

[ajg6989]

Ive had lights under the front bumper becareful if you ever drive up on a car it will go under the bumper and hit the front diff not the bumper and will rip the lights off the underside of the bumper . I did it once.

 

[cranetruck]

Here is an image of Ace of Spades showing extra lights under the bumper.

 

[Armada]

Great pic! I like that. You could easily put a gaurd around those lights, kinda like the bumper steps, heavy duty but rounded to fit the lights.

 

[rmgill]

So I've made up some brackets for my floods. Turns out the rear flood will mount up to an extra hole in the bracket that supports the rear mudflap holder. The front lgiths are mounting under the front bumper. I've made some 16 gauge triangle shaped brackets for the front floods that'll mount on the underside bumper bolts. It

The controls are going on another bracket I'll be mounting under the dash on the left. Front Floods, Rear Floods, Cab Dome, and a spare position that I haven't decided on yet. I'll probably mount a couple of low wattage floods that'll mount in the cargo bed. I'm not sure how I'll make those up.

My wiring power source is coming off of the 10 gauge lead that feeds the ignition lead and other circuits on the engine side of the firewall. I'm rigging up some basic automotive circuit breakers on the firewall until I get get the more proper Military type. Neat thing is the automotive type mounting holes match the holes on the firewall perfectly. Trick is, I need to rig up a tap that'll supply the power to the horn circuit breaker as well as the other two breakers. I really need to get a kit that has the connectors in it.

 

[rmgill]

Ok, so after two days of crawling around under the Deuce in drizzle and windy cold weather, I now have two 20 amp breakers on the firewall supplying power to the #37 lead and to a set of switches under the dash next to the door. The left most switch does the dual front floods. The next powers the rear flood on the left rear mud-flap brace and the last is for a dome light when I figure out what I want for a dome light. I've been looking at some basic license plate lamps as for use as dome lights as well as a proper license plate lamp. But I haven't found some that I like for a dome light or two.

 

[rmgill]

Here's my additional flood lights

From the front

 

[rmgill]

Front light brackets, I did them this way because I didn't want to drill holes in the bumper or front bumper supports. Partially because I didn't want to deal with drilling through such a thick hunk of metal, and partially because I want to leave as few permanent modifications as possible. ie easy to make it stock again.

 

[rmgill]

And the Rear Flood