WMO for home heating

[plym49]

If I were to supplement 20% of my heating oil with UMO, it would save me about $400/year in fuel expense.

To do this would cost additional money and time and effort(and mess). Factor in the desire to have a very reliable heating system, and I just don't see it being worth it.

If time and labor were not such an issue, making bio-diesel and supplementing with that, would be my first choice(better choice IMHO). But given the time, mess and expenses involved, the savings would be even less that using UMO, so you would need to supplement at least 50% of your annual fuel consumption to make a reasonable savings.

Manufactured waste oil furnaces/boilers/heaters are out there. Most are well designed and function well, but the fuel(UMO) still needs to be water free and filtered. I've never seen one that was as care free as a normal fuel oil system.

My savings would be a lot more (don't know if that is good or bad news). As far as the effort goes, I want to start treating WMO for my Deuce anyway, but just now I am not in a position to use it as often as I'd like. So, the HHO option gives me a chance to familiarize myself with the process and develop my own procedure for doing same.

So far, it sounds like the worst I have to worry about with a 20% mix is clogging a filter or a nozzle. That does not sound too risky, so it might be worth a shot.

I never mentioned it, but I have a second HHO tank full up. This tank would not see any WMO. So I have backup if I run into a bad clog.

 

[trukhead]

Look for the old fashioned parlor stove. It is the sheet metal cabinet with a door that opens to a door with the mica window to observe the flame. It is gravity fed and you put a piece of paper in the fire box to light the stove. The fuel runs in from the tank through an ancient oval box at the back that has a knob with and arrow that points to numbers for the amount of burn (heat). It is probably very inefficient but if you get the fuel for near free so what. The fuel sits on a pan inside the box and burns. I don't know how it works as I was but a wee lad when we used it but it more or less kept the drafty rotten old house above freezing in 20 below winter spells of the 60's . If it didn't, I didn't know better any way.
We built a new house in 1970 with the modern burner described earlier and it works well.
I think filtered and h2o free WMO would be the best.

I suppose to improve burn one could cut it with 1-5% gasoline but that could very dangerous. Read and practice at your own risk.

 

[plym49]

Look for the old fashioned parlor stove. It is the sheet metal cabinet with a door that opens to a door with the mica window to observe the flame. It is gravity fed and you put a piece of paper in the fire box to light the stove. The fuel runs in from the tank through an ancient oval box at the back that has a knob with and arrow that points to numbers for the amount of burn (heat). It is probably very inefficient but if you get the fuel for near free so what. The fuel sits on a pan inside the box and burns. I don't know how it works as I was but a wee lad when we used it but it more or less kept the drafty rotten old house above freezing in 20 below winter spells of the 60's . If it didn't, I didn't know better any way.
We built a new house in 1970 with the modern burner described earlier and it works well.
I think filtered and h2o free WMO would be the best.

I suppose to improve burn one could cut it with 1-5% gasoline but that could very dangerous. Read and practice at your own risk.

I agree that adding gasoline to the mix would be like, well, adding gasoline to the fire.