WMO question

[crazywelder72]

i just poured 8 gallons of unfiltered wmo that was just sitting in the sun for a few weeks. I didnt let the last inch of the bucket pour in. After that i went around the corner and put 10 gallons of gas in just to help thin it some. Truck ran great.

 

[panshark]

Crazy-
I think the process is a bit more finicky than you lead us to believe. How did you protect your WMO from collecting dew? Did you transfer it from the bucket to the tank via siphoning, or did you pick up the bucket and tilt? There's a reason filtering is covered with regards to WMO ad nauseum, because WMO can often be full of tiny metal shavings that don't convert to a gaseous state along with the rest of the fuel.

If it's worth burning WMO, and it's worth doing the preventive maintenance on, then it's worth filtering the fuel. 130,000 American filling stations can't be wrong.

 

[crazywelder72]

I truly understand. I just haven't got my filtering set up built yet.

The buckets had lids on them so they were sealed to prevent moisture and i just tilted and poured slowly. Right now my primary filter is a 10mic hydraulic filter (napa 1551) as i bought the wrong spin-on kit. it seems to do a nice job.

eventually i will exchange the primary set up for the catapillar fuel/water separator that i bought from this site.

 

[Blind Driver]

Electric space cars don't get road taxed cause they use energy not fuel....

Are you saying coal is not a fuel?

Lets not forget about the natural gas powered plants.

 

[gungearz]

Are you saying coal is not a fuel?

Lets not forget about the natural gas powered plants.

No... Coal is a fuel that's already taxed. Energy is taxed before it goes into those space clown cars and natural gas is taxed before it goes in also.... Lol.

 

[PsycoBob]

Centrifuge is best in the long run, but a simple bag setup is a great way to get started. Either way, prefiltering with a 50-150micron strainer while collecting it is a good idea- saves wear on the pump & keeps things like o-rings, mouse heads, etc out.

If you start pumping lots of oil, a 1hp electric motor directly coupled to a log-splitter pump works wonders. Quiet, fast & doesn't care if the oil's thick or thin.

 

[PsycoBob]

Last year's iteration of my filtering/transfer setup used a 16gpm @ 3600rpm pump driven by a 1/2hp 1750rpm motor by a belt drive. The belt drive let me change pump speeds to some extent. I normally ran the pump at about 900rpm, or close to the 4gpm mark. The pump uses a 4f17 mount & the motor's on a slide base to adjust belt tension. The motor has a thermal cutout built in, in case it overheats. If I'd known, I'd have spent the extra $30 for a face-mount motor. Doh!

With cold (40deg F) oil, the 4gpm rate got the motor hot to the touch, but didn't trip the cutout or cause any other issues. Hot oil barely causes any warming of the motor. Hot/cold times were within a 30 seconds of being the same from a full barrel on level ground.

I recent pumped several barrels of oil at about 60deg with the pulley ratio changed to drive the pump at 1750rpm. The motor handled it well, if rather warm. I had rather more belt slippage than I really wanted- a pair of 3.5" pulleys rather than the 2" ones I had would fix some of that.

One of my cohorts uses a 11gpm pump directly-driven with a lovejoy coupler & motor/pump mount. The 1hp 1750rpm motor doesn't have any issues at all, no matter what we throw at it. I suspect my 16gpm pump would work well on a 1hp 1750rpm motor.

My new centrifuge pump has a 1hp 3450rpm motor direct-driving a 4gpm pump. I'm really tempted to see if that warp speed motor will handle running the 16gpm pump at full speed, or just pop the breaker. If it works, I may buy a second 1hp motor just to use as a transfer pump- if not, a 1750 should work. I chose a 1hp motor for my centrifuge pump just because the 1/2hp was getting warmer than I'd like.

Note: log splitter pumps come with a hose barb to connect to the tank- some can be unscrewed & replaced with a 3/4" NPT fitting, others use a weird ultra-fine thread. Check the spec sheet closely before buying!

Much as I liked the adjustable nature of the belt system, the tension needs adjusting & it's a LOT more dangerous to use as a transfer pump. The direct-drive has a little access cover that keeps all the moving bits away from fingers, clothing, cords & hoses. A 1/2-3/4" NPT 90degree fitting will accept a 3' stick of iron pipe for an intake, leaving a few inches behind in the drum. Adding a short extension will fix that, if you want to suck one dry. The motor noise drops off when the pump starts sucking air- if it does that while running, grab the pliers & tighten the draw pipe a little more. I usually don't even need to bother using thread sealant.


Here's most of my parts list. I've gotten a lot of stuff from these guys, but they're not the only places to get these things. My new motor's a pretty stainless washdown-rated model from eBay. For a transfer pump, a small gas engine can be used with a matching mount. Ignore the HP ratings the pump calls for- unless you plug a line you won't need anything over 3-5hp, even for a monster 28gpm pump.

Uh, one down side to hydraulic pumps- if you forget to open the outlet valve, the motor will likely run long enough to pop any non-hydraulic hose before the breaker goes. NOT pretty.


Foot mount for belt-driving smaller log-splitter pumps
https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=1-3242&catname=hydraulic
4F17 PUMP FOOT MOUNT

Direct-drive motor/pump mount
https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=1-3246&catname=hydraulic
56C/145TC TO 4F17 PUMP MOUNT

C-face 1750rpm motor to direct-drive the pump, 1/2hp for 4gpm works great.
https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=10-2377&catname=electric
https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=10-2379&catname=electric

Disconnects for the outlet hoses: self-seals on both sides & acts like a swivel to prevent kinking. Chose 3/4" for better flow rate. A few drops to wipe up & never leaks.
https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=928-C&catname=hydraulic

 

[PsycoBob]

Few pics of my pumps, now that I have time to post them. The shiny stainless motor is hiding behind the centrifuge & the pump is almost completely hidden behind the hydraulic hose feeding the centrifuge's manifold. The belt drive one is the oversized 16gpm beast.

 

[JeremiahS]

my simple, effective filter set up. Can't take credit, and has probably been done many times, but:

Collect and store WMO in 55 gal drums

Pvc coupler with a tube down to about 6-7'' above bottom of barrel into larger opening in barrel. another tube above barrel about 1' with a standard garden hose thread

Barrels sit for at least 2 weeks, longer if possible.

air nozzle into small opening of barrel.

air (10 lbs or so) fed into barrel, forcing oil up through pvc, through garden hose which is hooked up to standard water filter housing, first through 10 or even 25 micron water filter, then down to five micron. You can buy a variety of filters for the standard housing, and pretty cheap. can clean filters for multiple uses, but they are cheap enough to throw out.

I run a mix of 80/20 wmo/diesel and truck seems to like it.

Have a Harbor Freight half ton winch in bed, works well for 55 gal drums.

Previous owner of truck set it up, so can't take credit, but is cheap, easy, and effective to filter relatively large amounts of fuel, at least compared to sock filters. I would really like to throw a magnet in somewhere to catch shavings, as well as a heat tank to dissipate any water that may be present, and doesn't stay in that bottom 6''

 

[crazywelder72]

Jer, can you post some pics for us?

thanks...

 

[reset2]

I'll be improving my set up compared to the small scale process using 5 gallon buckets. My avatiar will be my filter blending mobile trailer. When ever I get started I will post some pictures.
Remember blend settle filter. Time settling is your friend.

 

[Beyond Biodiesel]

Rest2, I look forward to seeing photos of your waste oil processing equipment as it evolves.