Won't start...out of options

[CaptMonocle]

OK, so around Christmas time the battery cable on my m1010 going to the starter melted and arced off the manifold. I dropped the starter, reinstalled everything and when I went to start it the starter must have been grounded against the shield plate. I got arcing at the batteries and white smoke from the driver’s side under the hood and from one of the fusible links on the passenger side bar.

I dropped the starter again, bought a new starter (24v). I installed new battery terminals, a new battery cable going to the starter, new glow plug relay, new starter relay, and a new fusible link.

When I tried to start it again the starter stayed engaged, I quickly pulled out the relay and disconnected the batteries. I realized the relay was stuck on so I went forward with Doghead’s starter relay modification. Now, all I get is a clicking from the relay when I try to start the truck.

I have gone through every test I can possibly think of, the TMs have no more info for me. With every test I try it seems to get worse and worse. I have good voltage everywhere. The starter and flywheel are perfectly aligned, and there are no damaged teeth on either. I am totally lost. Please help or else I’m going to have to have it towed to a shop.

 

[CUCV850]

have both batteries tested under a load.

 

[CaptMonocle]

I ran elctrical troublshooting test 43, voltage between front battery neg. and rear battery pos. was right at 22 volts. Is there a better test I could do?

 

[CUCV850]

11 volts x 2=22 volts weak battery, 12.5 x 2=25 volts good battery.

charge the batteries and have them tested at shop or store.

 

[CaptMonocle]

both batteries full charged and working like new. all i get is a heavy click sound when i turn the key

 

[m38inmaine]

If the batteries were working like new you would have 24-25 volts, it sounds like one is bad, check each one and see.