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Working on the M1078 LMTV

mkcoen

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Sorry about the confusing post. I thought it would post near where I saw this in the thread.
I saw some big rolls of sound deadening material. I would love to see some photos of where you are fitting it on the truck. Also any comments about how much it reduces noise.
Well I certainly thought I'd taken more pics of the install but apparently I didn't. Here are the only 2 I could find. The first is the passenger's floor. I added a piece of old cargo cover over the insulation so it wouldn't be silver where the drain holes were in the floor mat. The second shot is of the roof. I put it everywhere I could get to including the back of the cab behind the wall panel, entire floor, ceiling, side of cab, and what I could reach inside the doors.

Overall I'd say the sound deadening was better than the insulation quality. It'd probably be just as efficient to use something like Rhino Liner for both. The mat style I used was difficult to get into all the cracks and crevices and I probably would only use it again if I had a large, flat surface I was putting it on.

IMG_4488.jpgIMG_4418.jpg
 
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Aernan

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Thanks. When reading through the threads I was wondering if anyone had considered doing a Rhino Liner. I imagine it would me the interior easier to clean. It certainly would reduce noise.

You may want to consider putting the mat inside the doors against the door itself. That would require you to remove the door liner. I know car Audio folks do that often.
 

coachgeo

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Acoustics needs something to absorb sound. Think one will find heavy Bedliner will help but not be any better than something that will absorb sound. My humble guess is it would not work as good as the sound absorbing pads. A good balance may be sound and heat absorb pads on the underside of cab floor, Tunnel, and firewall. Sound and insulation pad on interior walls say starting 8" to 12" from cab floor. Similar on interior roof. Spray cab floor and part way up wall with bed liner. If you put thin paneling on interior outside of insulation..... then you can either bedline or just Plastic Dip the interior walls to keep that...... spray it clean option on the walls too.
 

Duckworthe

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I have personally used bed liners on the interiors of off-road trucks for a while now. It helps in many of the ways mentioned above. However as far as the easy cleaning goes, I would disagree. Yes you can just spray with a hose, but its not the same a s the bed of a truck. There are items you don't want to get wet on the interior using a hose. Plus the sand really gets trapped in all of the texture and just stays there. You can wait for it to dry and then vacuum it out later. Then that is just more steps to do. I don't use it much on interiors now. However, if you were going to put a different flooring material over it, like the original floor matting, then I could see doing it. Also, the bed liner gets uncomfortable to kneel on and when you are crawling around on the hands and knees if it is left bare with no covering over it. Just my 2cents
 

tennmogger

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Unless you prep the areas under bedliner extremely well, you will develop rust in a few years. The very areas you want to protect are the ones that are harder to prepare well. Best to leave those nooks and crannies open to dry, IMHO. The very edges of panels contribute very little to noise anyway.

The best thing I did to my cab was the heavy headliner. It's remarkable how much cooling that provides from the sun.

This is a great thread for lining your cab:

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showt...Post-Your-Proofing)/page2&highlight=headliner
 

mkcoen

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Earlier in the thread I saw mention of mounting pioneer tools. Is there factory hardware/spot to do that? Can anyone link photos?
I don't know of any hard mounts for pioneer tools. I bought a HMMWV kit that breaks down into a cloth carrier and just stowed that in my large tool locker. It's not as robust as a deuce kit but will get things done in a pinch.
 

mkcoen

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Took the truck to an airshow last weekend and came to the conclusion that I can't do any more events outside of town. The show was only 65 miles away (so 130 round trip) and my right leg was shot by the time I got home. I'm going to do some work on trying to loosen the pedal up but even then not sure I'll risk getting somewhere and the leg giving out so I can't get home. I did a parade back in Aug which was a total of around 80 miles there and back and had issues then but thought resting for the time frame of the airshow would give it enough rest that it shouldn't be an issue. Guess I was wrong.
 

coachgeo

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search devices for assistive driving. Example can be found over at the Amazoning world if you search for "Portable Handicap Driving Hand Controls--car Hand Controls" Would not need the hole kit shown there... just fuel pedal assistive portion.
 

mkcoen

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Sorry to hear that. Is there any way to rig a proper hand throttle?
I've checked on a couple different devices from temporary, removable ones to the type that are permanently installed. Cost is one factor for something that I've driven a total of 3 times this year. The other is adding a modification that makes the truck look "Bubba-ized." While I've added a few things that aren't strictly military, they at least LOOK military. My whole goal is to keep it as original as possible.

Juli has offered to drive it up to Austin for the Veteran's Day Parade but that will likely be the last event for me up there without a co-driver.
 

M813rc

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She's a good gal!

For the events you want to come to, I'm willing to come get you and/or the truck in advance. Being 35 miles from town, I know the farm doesn't resolve the distance issue for you, but for events like Temple, Muster Day, etc., where we have time to make multiple runs to shuttle trucks, its doable. Then you can either ride, or POV it to the event.

As regards the equipment, if it allows you to more comfortably use the truck, put it in there and we'll paint it green! Most folks won't know the difference. ;)
Wouldn't you drive it more if it were easier?

Cheers
 

reloader64

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I second what Rory says. Do whatever you need to do so you can drive it. We like having you at the events. I would offer to drive it for you, but it's missing the clutch pedal:p. Just kidding. If I can help you shuttle it around, I will.

Scott
 

TexAndy

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I've checked on a couple different devices from temporary, removable ones to the type that are permanently installed. Cost is one factor for something that I've driven a total of 3 times this year. The other is adding a modification that makes the truck look "Bubba-ized." While I've added a few things that aren't strictly military, they at least LOOK military. My whole goal is to keep it as original as possible.

Juli has offered to drive it up to Austin for the Veteran's Day Parade but that will likely be the last event for me up there without a co-driver.
I can come up that Friday evening, then drive your LMTV up there Saturday. It's been awhile since I did the Austin vet's day parade.

As far as a cruise control goes, you've seen the dash switch I use on my cucv. It's hardly noticeable and it required NO permanent modification. I didn't so much as drill a hole to mount anything. I used existing holes to mount the throttle cable/bracket, the logic controller, and the dash switch.

I want to see where the speedo cable comes from on your lmtv and where it attaches. If it's even remotely similar to a normal truck, I'll bet we can do the whole thing with a Rostra kit and speedo VSS adapter for 320ish bucks all told. Also need to see how accessible the throttle control lever/arm is.
 
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