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Working On The M561 Gama Goat

mkcoen

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Next time I start considering buying an oddball vehicle will someone take me out and beat some sense into me?

Anyone buy an oil pan gasket for one of these yet? All the photos for DD 3-53s I can find online have different hole configurations. The ones I've come across so far have #1 4 holes on the end and 6 along each side or #2 4 holes on each end and 8 along each side. Of course the Goat would be 4 on each end and 7 along each side. Not sure if I should shoot it and put it out of it's misery or the other way around.
 

Another Ahab

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Got started on the new motor chores by pulling the oil pan off of it. Why someone would punch a hole in the pan versus simply unbolting the drain plug has always baffled me. I'm thinking it took a whole lot more effort to do it wrong than it would have to do it right but we always seemed to do stupid crap in the Army so why should this be different. It's about 1/2" diameter hole but should weld up easy enough once it's been given a few love taps with a BFH.
I don't think stupid is strictly an Army phenomenon:

- I remember as a Navy Seabee hanging doors in the morning, and then spending the afternoon pulling all those same doors down (that was just ONE episode of being "all you can be", only it was in the Navy). Go figure. :cookoo:

What're you going to do? You get the command; you execute.
 
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Gamagoat1

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That is because the pictures are of cast iron blocks. They are different than the a
luminum blocks. You have to spec an aluminum 353 if you order a gasket. The hard part is finding one. Detroit does not supply the aluminum (Goat) any longer.
 
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m38inmaine

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Mark, according to the part number this place has them for sale. Of course all I can go by is the part number in the TM. Update: I just ordered one using this part number, when it arrives I will post up a picture and we will see if it's the correct one, it was $10 shipped.

http://store.carpcoastalmarine.com/fp-5143271-oil-pan-gasket/

I also crossed the complete overhaul gasket kit from the TM, PN 5199813 NSN 5330-00-080-6532 kit to FP-23517623. Again I can't confirm fitment as I don't have one of these kits, just going by the part numbers from the TM. These kits seem to run around $90.

As a field expedient you can go to the parts store and buy a roll of cork gasket material and make one and seal the seams with a little bit of gasket sealer, that will get you by for testing.
 
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mkcoen

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As a field expedient you can go to the parts store and buy a roll of cork gasket material and make one and seal the seams with a little bit of gasket sealer, that will get you by for testing.
That was the plan. My dad was making fun of more because I couldn't find one. He said when he was a mechanic in the '50s he never bought a preformed gasket once. However, I would like a complete one when I swap the pan with the ball valve back to this motor.
 

Gamagoat1

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That was the plan. My dad was making fun of more because I couldn't find one. He said when he was a mechanic in the '50s he never bought a preformed gasket once. However, I would like a complete one when I swap the pan with the ball valve back to this motor.
The valves are easy to get. Just remember to order the right size to fit the Goat pan and thread.
I have had one on mine for years and it really is great.DSC_0566.jpg

This is the one for the GOAT 3/4 x 14 tpi. Well worth the outlay of funds.


http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias=automotive&field-keywords=201N+fumoto
 
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mkcoen

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Good news and better news today. Keith_J came by to weld up the oil pan (and did a fabulous job) and what I neglected to mention while taking the oil pan off was that one of the bolts broke in the block. I was planning on drilling it and using an Easy-Out but there was enough left that Keith was able to weld a bit more body to it and get it out with a set of vice grips.

Also Mr. Wizard took what I thought was oil out of the coolant outlet and test it (he added a little more water to it and let it settle) and it turns out the slimy mess I thought was oil was just coolant mixed with rust! Once it had settled for a while there was no oil detected and the rust dropped to the bottom. That lifted a load of doubt about the engine. It's still not settled that it's a good runner but I definitely feel better about it.

We started on the engine test stand but ran out of time and I need to get a few parts before we run it any way. I've got a take out radiator from the M37 project and we're going to use that with a box fan for the coolant so should be able to let it idle for a bit.

Things is looking up :)

~~
 

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m38inmaine

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Great news and progress, look forward to seeing the stand as I need to make one myself. A company on the big "E" has the oil drain valves, I made an offer and got it shipped for $20, thanks for posting that part number.
 
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Keith_J

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Steel fasteners in aluminum can corrode TIGHT. Using TIG to add an additional 1/2" of length to that broken bolt also heated it enough to break the corrosion bond. Basically, I made a weld stalagtite on the broken stub with ER70 S2 filler wire..a 70,000 psi tensile strength steel. Then my trusty togglelock pliers could grab it and voila. We chased the bolt holes and remaining bolts so the threads are like new.

I'm still thinking on the test stand. I have 8' of 4" channel steel and 15' of 1.5" diameter heavy wall tube. Plus a boatload of 6010 and 7018 SMAW rods.1009151359.jpg
 
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M813rc

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I picked up an Airsoft Vietnam M60 on e*ay this weekend. It's used but looks in very servicable condition....
Those airsoft M60's are great for us MV types. But there was always something about mine that looked a bit off.

One day it clicked, and I went after the things with some steel wool. I buffed all the corners and protuberances until the metal started to show through the black paint. Bingo! They look just like real ones now.
I've done it to the other airsoft guns too, really takes the "toyish" effect away.

Also, remind me to show you the bracket thingy a buddy of mine made for under the gas tube to properly attach the gun to the M142 mount. The airsoft guns are lacking those. I'm going to see if Domingo can copy it and cobble a few more together, if he can, I'll share.

This post covers the mods to the airsoft guns to mount on the M142 -
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...M60VN-Modification-help&p=1754018#post1754018

Cheers
 
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Another Ahab

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Those airsoft M60's are great for us MV types. But there was always something about mine that looked a bit off.

One day it clicked, and I went after the things with some steel wool. I buffed all the corners and protuberances until the metal started to show through the black paint. Bingo! They look just like real ones now.
I've done it to the other airsoft guns too, really takes the "toyish" effect away

Cheers
The M-60 was my squad weapon , and feeling some fool nostalgia here.

Have you maybe got a good pic you could post here of your airlift version, just for fun?
 

mkcoen

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Keith_J was over today and after burning up one chop saw and buying another one got the stand feet welded together. Unfortunately I forgot there was no mail delivery today so the pan gaskets I was expecting won't be here until tomorrow.

Ignore the quality of the radiator set up. I got my engineering degree from a box of Cracker Jacks.
 

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quarkz

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It's a good thing to be a cracker jack engineer.
Looks good.
There is always rtv, then save the gasket kit for the final assembly.
 
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