Working On The M561 Gama Goat

[mkcoen]

Well Sunday turned out to be the "may not" version of getting the new MC in. Then yesterday our morning low was 31 which also turned out to be the daytime high so I figured I'd wait for a little friendlier temps today. So it was 32 when I changed the MC out. Luckily there's a panel on top of the dash that comes off right over the MC. By taking the gauge cluster panel out as well you have lots of access to work on things. Here's a comparison of what the two units look like and then a shot after it was installed. I still need to wait for Keith_J and his wonder bleeding tool to check it out but I think things are going to get better (tomorrow is supposed to be 65 out too!).

 

[Keith_J]

Brake fluid flowed from the upstream side of the QD so we took the downstream part off, it too was free flowing and stuck open...it shut itself after a few minutes.

We found the problems, every hose (4 of them) is plugged. Well, every brake hose, the air hoses which have same fittings and lengths (for the most part) are fine. So a simple swap from air to brake should restore braking ability until proper replacements can be sourced.

The fun of this swap cannot be described. The only thing keeping my sanity is a set of ratcheting tube fitting wrenches, a milsurp roll that mkcoen has, work wonderfully in the tight quarters. Seems like every fitting fights me every turn.

These are not standard double flare as typical in hydraulic brakes but ferrule fittings. Not the same as standard compression fittings either.

 

[Another Ahab]

The fun of this swap cannot be described. The only thing keeping my sanity is a set of ratcheting tube fitting wrenches, a milsurp roll that mkcoen has, work wonderfully in the tight quarters. Seems like every fitting fights me every turn.

 

[Keith_J]

Like these:http://my-ssp-usa.com/Products/Tools-and-Accessories/TurnPro-Hand-Tools/Open-Jaw-Ratchet-Wrench.aspx

 

[frank8003]

One of the most fun jobs is topping up the front steering box. (they tend to leak)

Would that cornhead grease be good for that steering box?

 

[mkcoen]

Would that cornhead grease be good for that steering box?

I have a take out steering box coming next week and we'll be filling it with grease. At this point haven't decided what kind for sure. Cornhead grease is pretty pricey and I can't see why a high-temp bearing grease wouln't work just as well. All I know is the box that's in there leaks like a sieve so something needs changed.

 

[Keith_J]

Yes, any grease will work. No need for high temp wheel bearing types. You could blend some #2 grease with some gear oil to make your own. High temp wheel bearing grease doesn't thin out at higher temps, unlike corn head grease.

 

[mkcoen]

I was able to clean the quick release valve up a little yesterday. It had a fair amount of paint and rust on it. I got the paint off and flattened the rust a little but it was enough that it got moving back and forth easier.



I also turned the corner on the paint removal, literally. I'm now working on the front of the carrier instead of just the right side.



Cold front is moving in and it dropped from the low 50's to the mid 40's so I'm done for the day.

 

[dmetalmiki]

Would that cornhead grease be good for that steering box?

We use a mix of Moly Grease and S.T.P. works great, stopped our leak, and the steering is better.

 

[mkcoen]

I went ahead and splurged on the JD Corn Head grease. The case came today and I should have enough to do both steering boxes as well as the winch. If it goes good and there's enough left over I might even convert the deuce winch to it as well. Now the big hold up is all the snow in the Appalachian States keeping me from getting the new steering box.

 

[mkcoen]

Got the folding section of the troop seats in the mail today. One is fairly straight with crappy latches and the other one is pretty crappy with excellent latches. I should be able to get the crappy one straightened to useful condition but not sure I can salvage the rusted latches on the other one. I'll pull them off and soak them in some Marvel Mystery Oil for a while to see if they'll loosen up any. Worst case scenario is I just leave them rusted in the closed position and the seat becomes permanent versus moveable. The release cables on both of them are toast so I'll need to fab something for that.

 

[dmetalmiki]

Just keep at it.. you are doing great up to now.so glad I had so many original good componants in, on, or with my goat.

 

[mkcoen]

Just keep at it.. you are doing great up to now.so glad I had so many original good componants in, on, or with my goat.

That's the thing, you can't be too choosey when your prospects for parts are limited. I was thrilled with the NOS tailgate and other parts I've gotten so far. I'm still waiting on some more used stuff but I'm pretty confident it'll be in fairly good shape. And what I can't find (mirror arms) I'm going to try and fabricate out of some deuce mirror arms. It won't be 100% authentic but I'm guessing the average car show attendee will never know the difference.

 

[dmetalmiki]

Your absalutely correct there.. as the mirror arms on the original mount left the driver with very poor vision. So, I made my own, and mounted them with an (absalute) neccessity for safety first. They look great.. and as you say ..who knows..units fitted modifications anyway, especially if you have that Gun Mount on the fender.

 

[quarkz]

I had troubles with this part last year when I started fixing up my M561 I recovered from Utah.

For mirror arms try Eastern Surplus on their specials page.
I owe them a plug, as they were very helpful replacing inferior mirror arms.
http://www.easternsurplus.net/specials.html


Search for mirror replacement arms. There are 3 types. Don't go for the cheap $5 arms. They have bake-a-lite plastic unions with a set screw to adjust length. The unions will crack. Go the $7 or $12 route. These have a metal union with a 1/4-20 bolt for adjustment.

The part I can not find is the "horn protection". The little cage/brush guard that sits on the passenger front fender, next to the turn signal.

Tony

 

[mkcoen]

The part I can not find is the "horn protection". The little cage/brush guard that sits on the passenger front fender, next to the turn signal.

Try pming popacom. He's got a couple of boxes full of things headed my way. The other option would be Art's Parts in Austin, MN. That's who I got the troop seat parts from.

The hard part about the mirrors is that I'm also missing the piece that bolts to the dash. I'm going to try to fab some that look close but I'd like to find the actual brackets.

 

[quarkz]

The support bars for the windshield, or do you mean another part?

 

[mkcoen]

The support bars for the windshield, or do you mean another part?

The mirror brackets that bolt to the side of the dash (then the slanted arm bolts to it and the mirror head). This picture has the bracket just behind the lifting ring.

 

[quarkz]

Here are some pix I snapped of the brackets on mine, in case you go the DIY fabrication route.
Also there are some pix of aftermarket Jeep brackets that could be modified to work as a temp fix to get the Old Girl on the road.


Here is a link to my Gama gama hey! post.

 

[TexAndy]

Looks like you're hoggin all the fun, Tom. I can't make it up this week, but next week if the weather looks good, I can make it up for most of one day and part of the next.