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Wrecker Winches - Canvas Covers

zebedee

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OK - I am not one for canvas jewelry just for the sake of it on authentic/show military vehicles, but there is a need, in my opinion/experience of my truck, for a level wind cover to keep debris from blocking the drain holes in the trolley frame.
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See rebuild tips thread in 5 ton section. http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?130527-Rear-Level-Wind-Servicing-Tips
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Hopefully I am going to chat with Jatonka at Jim Thorpe this weekend and get a little more serious about making a pattern for these. Prob measure up for the level wind on the front too.

So - I will do this for my truck, eventually(!) - but if there is an interest, that may change the timing/approach/efficiencies with John's canvas dude.

Comments anyone???
 

73m819

Rock = older than dirt , GA. MAFIA , Dirty
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The reason for NO winch covers is that the covers trap moisture which deteriorates the cable, both steel core and fiber core, the fiber core is worse because a dry cable WILL draw moisture to it.
 

zebedee

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OK - then level wind cover only! Leaving the winch drum exposed......... No good?
 

73m819

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What about a water proof but a breathable cover, if the cover is for dirt then water proof is not needed.
 

red

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Rather than a fitted cover I think some type of rain shield would work better with the steel cable. Kinda like a bikini top on a jeep. Would protect it from the rain but not trap any moisture.
 

emr

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I always soak my canvas winch covers in WD or equivalent , Depending what's on hand, Never have a problem with moisture and they last for ever LOL :) For those who would leave it on long enough for moisture and rust to start, They must remember these are tactical vehicles from front to back , meaning everything needs maintenance, No cover should be left on for that long on a cable with out a light oil spritz...
, But soaking it sure makes it nice when forgotten LOL<<<
 

Csm Davis

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Properly maintained, and that means treated with the proper wire rope lube, winch cables do not need a cover.

Use a product like this.
The cover is not just to stop water from getting on the cable, but trash and dirt out which will damage almost any part of the winch. That said i also understand lots of maintenance will be a overall better option but most of us don't have the time or money to do tge intense maintenance to government does so we need to prolong the interval between maintenance which the cover will do.

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Csm Davis

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The reason for NO winch covers is that the covers trap moisture which deteriorates the cable, both steel core and fiber core, the fiber core is worse because a dry cable WILL draw moisture to it.
And this why you should lube your cables, but Ron i will say that all of the dry cables i have seen on military trucks were where the sun and rain beat them dry. I personally think a well oiled cable inside a well oiled canvas cover will fair better than an exposed well oiled cable. Vinyl or plastic cover no but oiled canvas should be perfect if removed, cleaned, oiled, and cable checked and oiled on a regular basis.
Does anyone know where to get cosmoline? Or could you just pack the cables with grease? Then wrap the spool of cable with the oiled canvas. Anybody see a problem with that?

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Csm Davis

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And this why you should lube your cables, but Ron i will say that all of the dry cables i have seen on military trucks were where the sun and rain beat them dry. I personally think a well oiled cable inside a well oiled canvas cover will fair better than an exposed well oiled cable. Vinyl or plastic cover no but oiled canvas should be perfect if removed, cleaned, oiled, and cable checked and oiled on a regular basis.
Does anyone know where to get cosmoline? Or could you just pack the cables with grease? Then wrap the spool of cable with the oiled canvas. Anybody see a problem with that?

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Nevermind I have found it.
http://www.cosmolinedirect.com


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zebedee

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Jeff - I am with you on this - if the cable is well lubed, then you are protecting the lube by covering the cable, especially if you hardly use the winch and don't get to check it's condition - BUT as the original poster said (???) - the corrosion damage caused to level wind trolley pivot shaft and trolley frame recess was caused by the drain holes (smaller than a pencil), being clogged by either too much grease to the trolley frame pivot or road grime/leaves falling in the falling time etc.
Covering of the level wind I think is a good idea. Covering it and totally ignoring it for immortality - not to regularly lube it however, is incorrect! Covering the winch cable - ehhhhh.
 

Hard Head

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All the Warn Severe Duty Warn winches I sold had rust inhibitor lube on the cables and should be maintained since they were designed to operate in submerged conditions. I use a penetrating lubricant to saturate the core. Then, follow up with a coating lubricant to seal and protect the outer surface. I clean my winch cables at least once a year or after heavy use and put both products on the cable. I get mine from Lubrication Engineers out of Texas.
 

73m819

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The -10s say that the cable should be WIPED down with a OILED rag EVERY TIME after EVERY use, the It is supposed to be pulled back out then pulled in while wiping down.

REMEMBERED ALWAYS WARE GLOVES WHEN HANDLING CABLE, WIRE OR FIBER.
 

m715

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This post is about preserving canvass winch covers. I found that spraying boiled linseed oil on winch covers made them waterproof again. I thinned the blo with either lacquer thinner or enamel not sure. Almost any solvent may work. Warning blo on shop rags has been known to spontaneously combust so be careful. Also likely to have been found to cause cancer someplace.
 

Csm Davis

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This post is about preserving canvass winch covers. I found that spraying boiled linseed oil on winch covers made them waterproof again. I thinned the blo with either lacquer thinner or enamel not sure. Almost any solvent may work. Warning blo on shop rags has been known to spontaneously combust so be careful. Also likely to have been found to cause cancer someplace.
In the past I have used bee's wax with good success just melt it and dip or brush it on. But I think cosmoline would be a good thing also.

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m715

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I wish I could find the old brown cosomline blocks that you melted to apply. I have not seen them for over 30 years.
 

Another Ahab

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Plain old Sno-Seal would likely do the job for you (and without the risk of spontaneous combustion from petroleum product).

It's sold for leather conditioning (but it doesn't "know" that; it'll have it's same effect when applied to canvas).

Any good hardware store (or shoe store even) will probably carry it.

It's a beeswax product:

 
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