wsucougarx
Well-known member
- 6,951
- 67
- 48
- Location
- Washington State
Last edited:
-
Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
WSUCougarx's M561 Gama Goat Acquisition and Build Thread
- Thread starter wsucougarx
- Start date
wsucougarx
Well-known member
- 6,951
- 67
- 48
- Location
- Washington State
Dataplate Restoration Trial Run
A couple days ago I sprayed two very weathered and oxidized data plate w/Rustoleum Flat black. I have some new after market ones that are the silk screened type...I don't care for them. So I made a little project with them. I noticed all the "shiny" parts of the dataplate are raised whereas the black portions are recessed in the plate. I figured if I got my data plates straight enough I could use some fine wet sandpaper and bring them back to life. I'll let the pics do the talking as to how it went.
I will be pulling the remaining data plates and bringing them back. My only recommendation? Just do it!!! You're not going to ruin them. Chances are your data plates look like mine did. Total sanding time was about 20 minutes.
A couple days ago I sprayed two very weathered and oxidized data plate w/Rustoleum Flat black. I have some new after market ones that are the silk screened type...I don't care for them. So I made a little project with them. I noticed all the "shiny" parts of the dataplate are raised whereas the black portions are recessed in the plate. I figured if I got my data plates straight enough I could use some fine wet sandpaper and bring them back to life. I'll let the pics do the talking as to how it went.
I will be pulling the remaining data plates and bringing them back. My only recommendation? Just do it!!! You're not going to ruin them. Chances are your data plates look like mine did. Total sanding time was about 20 minutes.
Attachments
Last edited:
Another Ahab
Well-known member
- 17,999
- 4,556
- 113
- Location
- Alexandria, VA
The Goat is looking great; what a beauty.
![[thumbzup]](https://www.steelsoldiers.com/images/smilies/icon_smile_thumzup.gif "Thumbs Up [thumbzup]"){kind=icon}
- 5,637
- 381
- 83
- Location
- Spring Branch, TX
Mike the data plates turned out great! I need to do some yellow warning plates on the LMTV. I haven't checked to see if they're raised or not but I'm guessing "not."
combat32
Well-known member
- 1,639
- 106
- 63
- Location
- Booneville AR.
You got a pretty motor!
wsucougarx
Well-known member
- 6,951
- 67
- 48
- Location
- Washington State
Getting the dash put back together
Yesterday was a good day to get some things tied up in the dash. I finally got the Aux. and IR lights hooked up. I used a heater rotary switch out of the M939 to power up the lights. The "Lo" setting on the rotary controls the Aux. lights and the "Hi" setting controls the IR lights. Rather than have a knee banging bracket under the steering wheel, I just simply incorporated the switch in the dash by the master light switch. I also hooked up the dash dome light. I also rewired the two forward blackout lights as well. Got the dataplates and some decals mounted on the dash.
Yesterday was a good day to get some things tied up in the dash. I finally got the Aux. and IR lights hooked up. I used a heater rotary switch out of the M939 to power up the lights. The "Lo" setting on the rotary controls the Aux. lights and the "Hi" setting controls the IR lights. Rather than have a knee banging bracket under the steering wheel, I just simply incorporated the switch in the dash by the master light switch. I also hooked up the dash dome light. I also rewired the two forward blackout lights as well. Got the dataplates and some decals mounted on the dash.
Attachments
Last edited:
Another Ahab
Well-known member
- 17,999
- 4,556
- 113
- Location
- Alexandria, VA
That is all looking so clean; wow!
Where did you get that "Good Driver" decal?
Where did you get that "Good Driver" decal?
wsucougarx
Well-known member
- 6,951
- 67
- 48
- Location
- Washington State
Thanks for your comments! I had the decal laying around.
wsucougarx
Well-known member
- 6,951
- 67
- 48
- Location
- Washington State
More data plate restorations...
After the initial data plate restoration, I decided to pull the ones off the fiberglass tranny/transfer case cover.
After the initial data plate restoration, I decided to pull the ones off the fiberglass tranny/transfer case cover.
Attachments
Last edited:
wsucougarx
Well-known member
- 6,951
- 67
- 48
- Location
- Washington State
Re-priming the transfer case oil pump
As all you Goat owner know, the oil pump on the Goat is not self-priming. The TM shows unbolting the pump and manually depressing the piston to re-prime it. I did it for 20 minutes to no avail. I checked to make sure the line wasn't obstructed by shooting air into the tube and rechecked all connections to make sure they were sealed. Re-pumped to no avail. So I bought an OTC 2359 oil suction pump off Amazon for $20 shipped. After four pumps, she was primed! I highly recommend this pump!
As all you Goat owner know, the oil pump on the Goat is not self-priming. The TM shows unbolting the pump and manually depressing the piston to re-prime it. I did it for 20 minutes to no avail. I checked to make sure the line wasn't obstructed by shooting air into the tube and rechecked all connections to make sure they were sealed. Re-pumped to no avail. So I bought an OTC 2359 oil suction pump off Amazon for $20 shipped. After four pumps, she was primed! I highly recommend this pump!
Attachments
Last edited:
Gamagoat1
Active member
- 746
- 44
- 28
- Location
- Kiowa, Colorado
If you add a pint of Lucas oil stabilizer to your transfer oil you'll never have to worry about loosing prime again. I did it on mine 20 years ago and it pumps every time. If and when you change oil just, add it again.
Last edited:
Al Capone
Active member
- 358
- 38
- 28
- Location
- Pearl river la
does this priming have to be done only if u drain all oil out? Or after its been sitting for long time? more details please
wsucougarx
Well-known member
- 6,951
- 67
- 48
- Location
- Washington State
You know I'm not sure. When I got my truck the previous owner stated all the fluids were drained by the Idaho Forest Service. He added gear fluid but never mentioned he primed it. When I bought the truck, I drained all the fluid because of the unknown of what he added. Albeit, he never drove this Goat. He bought this Goat along with several others with the intention of reselling. Im not sure why I said all this. I'm thinking this needs to be done at fluid changes? I'm not sure.
Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
Gamagoat1
Active member
- 746
- 44
- 28
- Location
- Kiowa, Colorado
It depends on the condition of the pump. If it's new there is little clearence between the pump piston and the cylinder wall, if it is primed it will stay primed. If the pump has some run time on it and those clearences are a little larger you will lose the prime after a long sit, like winter up here in Colorado.
With Lucas or STP (prefered Lucas, no wax), no mater how hot the trans gets or how long it sits, the the piston will remain coated and thus primed and ready to pump. I always add a pint to my gear oil when I drain it, good for gears and good for the pump!!
The big answer is Lubricate the pump piston.
Last edited:
wsucougarx
Well-known member
- 6,951
- 67
- 48
- Location
- Washington State
Finished up the tranny/transfer case and Carrier Seatbelts
I finished painting and restoring the fiberglass tranny/transfer case cover. I mounted the dataplates with stainless steel hardware and added NOS shifter boots. She cleaned right up. I still need to add the foam tape to the contact edges and she'll be ready to mount.
I also got around to mounting the carrier seatbelts as well. She's starting to come together!!
I finished painting and restoring the fiberglass tranny/transfer case cover. I mounted the dataplates with stainless steel hardware and added NOS shifter boots. She cleaned right up. I still need to add the foam tape to the contact edges and she'll be ready to mount.
I also got around to mounting the carrier seatbelts as well. She's starting to come together!!
Attachments
wsucougarx
Well-known member
- 6,951
- 67
- 48
- Location
- Washington State
Front side marker light connected
Tonight I finally got the front marker lights hooked up. For whatever reason, through all the years of doing electrical work on vehicle, I have never owned a test light. So I went to our local Walmart and bought one. The idea was to splice into the wiring harness by isolating the rear driving lights. So, I picked the bundle just forward of the transfer case. I turned on the lights and checked all the 14 AWG wires for a positive light test. As things would have it, it was the last wire I tested. I snipped the wire added the Packard wire connectors. Then I just put in a 3 female connector and ran the two marker lights off of it.
Tonight I finally got the front marker lights hooked up. For whatever reason, through all the years of doing electrical work on vehicle, I have never owned a test light. So I went to our local Walmart and bought one. The idea was to splice into the wiring harness by isolating the rear driving lights. So, I picked the bundle just forward of the transfer case. I turned on the lights and checked all the 14 AWG wires for a positive light test. As things would have it, it was the last wire I tested. I snipped the wire added the Packard wire connectors. Then I just put in a 3 female connector and ran the two marker lights off of it.
Attachments
wsucougarx
Well-known member
- 6,951
- 67
- 48
- Location
- Washington State
Piston now lubed! Thanks for the heads up.
Attachments
wsucougarx
Well-known member
- 6,951
- 67
- 48
- Location
- Washington State
Brakes adjusted, Carrier Stop Light, Horn Button
Before taking her out on the maiden voyage, I went through and adjusted all the brakes. Not sure why I didn't do it when I already had her jacked up before. All my brakes were way out of adjustment. My pedal travel before adjustment was about 5 inches. Even then she barley stopped. Tonight i followed the TM. After adjustments, my brake pedal travel is about 1/2-1 inch. The pedal is rock hard now.
I also tested my wire connections on my newly replaced Carrie stop light. Everything checked out. I also finally got around to reinstalling the horn button. I found my horn was inoperable. I dismounted her and could here nothing but rust and crap inside of her. I've got a replacement on it's way. It's a NOS UNIT I got off E*** for a mere $9. I'm going to have this Goat fully operational and put back together this Thursday. Once I get all the little parts put back on, I'll retouch the entire truck with spot painting. Once that's cure, it'll be stencilled.
Before taking her out on the maiden voyage, I went through and adjusted all the brakes. Not sure why I didn't do it when I already had her jacked up before. All my brakes were way out of adjustment. My pedal travel before adjustment was about 5 inches. Even then she barley stopped. Tonight i followed the TM. After adjustments, my brake pedal travel is about 1/2-1 inch. The pedal is rock hard now.
I also tested my wire connections on my newly replaced Carrie stop light. Everything checked out. I also finally got around to reinstalling the horn button. I found my horn was inoperable. I dismounted her and could here nothing but rust and crap inside of her. I've got a replacement on it's way. It's a NOS UNIT I got off E*** for a mere $9. I'm going to have this Goat fully operational and put back together this Thursday. Once I get all the little parts put back on, I'll retouch the entire truck with spot painting. Once that's cure, it'll be stencilled.
Attachments
wsucougarx
Well-known member
- 6,951
- 67
- 48
- Location
- Washington State
Remaining Project List
I'm sitting here cornered in the garage with the Goat in my way. I'm without a piece of paper and pen so I've got a little time to ponder.
1) Stencilling
2) VIC-1 system
3) VRC-12 Radio mounted
4) HW-20-2 Heater
5) Back up light (with manual override switch)
6) Repair Carrier Cargo Cover
7) Winch Kit Mounting
Mount Rear Antenna Mount (2)
9) Mount M792 Tailgate Step
10) Footman Loop and strap on engine cover for M60 spare barrel
11) Repair Soft Top Door kit and replace clear vinyl windows
12) Fabricate Duck Cotton Covers
A) Seat Bottom Covers
B) Winch Cable Cover
C) Aux Light Covers x2
D) IR Light Covers x2
E) M60 Fender Stub Cover
F) Ammo Can Mount Cover
G) Headlight Covers x2
13) Mount Metal craft Fire Ext in carrier near VRC12 set
14) Fabricate Air Box Drain Box W/vent
15) Mount ABC-M11 to tractor fender
I'm sitting here cornered in the garage with the Goat in my way. I'm without a piece of paper and pen so I've got a little time to ponder.
1) Stencilling
2) VIC-1 system
3) VRC-12 Radio mounted
4) HW-20-2 Heater
5) Back up light (with manual override switch)
6) Repair Carrier Cargo Cover
7) Winch Kit Mounting
Mount Rear Antenna Mount (2)9) Mount M792 Tailgate Step
10) Footman Loop and strap on engine cover for M60 spare barrel
11) Repair Soft Top Door kit and replace clear vinyl windows
12) Fabricate Duck Cotton Covers
A) Seat Bottom Covers
B) Winch Cable Cover
C) Aux Light Covers x2
D) IR Light Covers x2
E) M60 Fender Stub Cover
F) Ammo Can Mount Cover
G) Headlight Covers x2
13) Mount Metal craft Fire Ext in carrier near VRC12 set
14) Fabricate Air Box Drain Box W/vent
15) Mount ABC-M11 to tractor fender
Amer-team
Well-known member
- 1,707
- 32
- 48
- Location
- Centralia/WA
it is a good thing there isn't much left to do. 
If you need any particular 1" or 1/2" stencils let me know and we will get them cut. P
If you need any particular 1" or 1/2" stencils let me know and we will get them cut. P