WTF!? Freeze plugs popping out.

[Nonotagain]

I don't seem to recall whether you stated cup or dish style or the material that they are made of, brass or steel.

My preference is brass cup style freeze plugs installed with 3M gorillia snot, aka weather strip adhesive.

The brass cup style plugs will take the shape of a slightly mis-shaped core plug hole.

Steel dish style plugs must be installed with sealer since the sealing surface is only the thickness of the plug material.

Did you bleed they system of air before installing the radiator cap after the freeze plug installation? The reason that I ask is that I installed an engine block heater freeze plug once that even though I thought all the air was bleed from the system, went to over 240F really fast. The lower portion of the block air locked and pushed out a new factory installed plug within 2 minutes of engine start.

I installed freeze plugs for years only using an impact socket. My Snap-On dealer finally shamed my into purchasing the ball jointed installation tool. The right tool for the right job.

 

[avengeusa]

I have built 1000's of engines, yup, 1000's. no crap.....

I ALWAYS clean the holes well, and then use 3M 8003 glue, yellow gorilla snot, never ever leaks

 

[Westech]

I could tell you whats wrong but its G4 classified

 

[54reo]

I have always used a sealant on the freeze plugs on the engines I have built.

Never had a leak or blow-out.

 

[gimpyrobb]

I could tell you whats wrong but its G4 classified

I just gave Stretch a GLG-20 classification, will that work?

 

[FormerNewMVGuy]

I recently replaced the 2 inch plug in the front of the block, ldt-465. I put it in dry, i got the plug from napa (cup type) I drove it in using a bearing race driver. After i put the truck back together, I took it for a test drive, the over flow tube was plugged and it blew antifreeze out of the radiator cap but the freeze plug still remains intact!
BTW I used a cordless drill and a piece of tig weld filler wire 1/8th inch to clean out the overflow tube! Worked great!

 

[uscgmatt]

I just gave Stretch a GLG-20 classification

 

[Stretch44875]

Is that good or bad Gimpy?

I'm pretty pissed at Napa. They don't believe in carrying more than one plug at a time. Advance auto had 10.

So I am determined to not pull the heads. So I made a plate on the surface grinder to fit between the cylinder heads. .058" thick. Couple thousand's slop so heads can expand. Those freeze plugs are NOT going anywhere.

The one on the front is easy. The one on the back, I'm drilling a 1/2" hole to tap it in and out, through the firewall. Ones on the side of the block are easy also. Didn't change the ones on the front of the engine or rear, didn't have the engine out.

Green loctite is for bearing retaining, and would work well I think for this application.

 

[gimpyrobb]

Dennis, that is from "Spies like us". I have it stenciled on my trucks.

 

[ida34]

I have built engines since the 80's. I used to work as a certified mechanic and have not kept track but have probably built 50 or so engines. I always use a socket to install them and always put on a thin layer of RTV. I would think it would take more pressure than 11 pounds to push them out. Are you sure you got the head sealed? Sounds like there is pressure from the combustion chamber getting into the cooling system. With the rad cap off are you getting bubbles in the radiator? I would check this first and check the system with a pressure tester. If they pop off without the engine running then you know the plugs are a misfit. Are you using steel or brass plugs? I always use brass. If the problem persists then I would try to convert to the screw in plugs. You getting it ready for Findley?

Chuck

 

[Stretch44875]

Trying to get it done so I can get the M108 ready for findlay. Running out of time....

Dennis

 

[ida34]

See you there.

 

[Tackettr]

I must not understand how the freeze plug works on the duece. On the ones I have installed, (all gasoline engines) the concave freeze plug fits into the hole and against a ridge to prevent it from going iside the block. Then you take some type of drive to the center of the plug to mash it flatter to expand the OD of the plug and secure it. Sounds like they are different on the deuce, is it because diesels are different??

 

[ida34]

I have never seen ridges in any of the engines I have built. This is why one must be careful not to accidentally drop the plug in the water jacket when removing them and you must only tap them in. If you pound them in they will go right through into the water jacket. I have rebuilt various engines from the big three and all were the same. No ridge. It sounds like you are installing them backwards. The side without the edges goes toward the water jacket with the edges facing outside. Again, I used to be a certified mechanic and have been building engines since I was a teenager. The only deviation I have seen is screw in freeze plugs on race engines.


Here is a link to an article about freeze plug installation in Circle Track magazine.

 

[Tackettr]

Well those are different than the ones I installed. Maybe because I haven't changed any modern ones. Mine were on a WWII Jeep engine. I have been looking for pictures on how to the install them or what they look like but no luck. There was no lip on them, kinda like a plate.

 

[ida34]

That would explain it. I have a GPW engine that I have to rebuild but I have not had time to take it apart yet. I will have to take a look.

 

[wvhillbilly]

Use a SLIGHT amount of a HIGH-TEMP red silicone sealer. Expansion plugs come in shallow and concave versions. Recommend you closely measure the opening with a dial caliper as expansion plugs are available in 1/64" increments. Use the SAME TYPE as what is in the engine, as I have found both types in multi-fuels. Use an installation tool that fits the OUTER edge of the plug. Install until solid. TAKE YOUR TIME!!!. IF all else fails, use a rubber expansion plug, and install dry without any sealer. I actually prefer these because they are easy to use, and seal great for me. all you need to install them is a socket and ratchet!!! Trust me...I know... I run a "professional" auto parts store...and proud of it!!!

P.S. A socket is fine to use as an install tool, just make sure it fits as close as possible to the outer edge of the expansion plug as possible. By the way, a faulty radiator cap WILL NEVER blow a freeze plug. A radiator cap LOSES its rated pressure as it ages. That is not your problem. I know you don't want to hear this, but a faulty head gasket has been known to pop expansion plugs, due to the high pressure in the cylinders upon combustion....somewhat common among diesels, especially older ones. Upon ignition of the fuel, the pressure is vented thru a blown head gasket into the cooling system. That sudden rise in the pressure causes the weakest link to blow..i.e. expansion plug? Maybe radiator cap? Check and see if you see bubbles in your radiator after you make your repair. If so, your head gasket is blown between a cylinder and a cooling port. GOoD LUCK, fellow SS. If I can help, send me a PM. SEE YOU IN SYRIA, VA!!!

 

[ida34]

Are you sure you got the head sealed? Sounds like there is pressure from the combustion chamber getting into the cooling system. With the rad cap off are you getting bubbles in the radiator?

I know you don't want to hear this, but a faulty head gasket has been known to pop expansion plugs, due to the high pressure in the cylinders upon combustion....somewhat common among diesels, especially older ones. Upon ignition of the fuel, the pressure is vented thru a blown head gasket into the cooling system. That sudden rise in the pressure causes the weakest link to blow..i.e. expansion plug? Maybe radiator cap? Check and see if you see bubbles in your radiator after you make your repair. If so, your head gasket is blown between a cylinder and a cooling port.

Is there an echo in hear?

 

[Stretch44875]

I believe the freeze plug problem is fixed. Replaced all the ones I could, including the one facing the firewall, on the cylinder head. Used napa plugs, and sleeve retaining loctite. Holes were squeaky clean for install. Took on a long drive and no problems. No bubbling in the radiator. Checked the radiator cap. Did a whoops, put a pinhole in the radiator, so have to fix that.

It's SO nice to have a clean engine, only oil leak is from a couple injector lines at the pump. Need to snug them up and see if that fixes the problem.

 

[gimpyrobb]

Glad to hear it!