WTK: Front Left Hub Leak, M52A2

[Hkx3]

Ive noticed since Ive owned my truck its had a wet spot on the inner sidewall of the driver side tire. For the longest time the spot has been "old" and "dry". Then this weekend I drove the ol girl about 35-40 miles. I parked it in my building and hopped out only to walk off and notice the wet spot is now bad.

Seems as though the guard deal on the front of the hub/spindle area (looks like a break guard or something)? is also wet on the bottom.

What do I need to buy before trying this job, or should I just take it to the local heavy mech.?

I dont have any real big tools, just 1/2" drive sockets and stuff.

Im assuming driving further with this leak will lead to brake failure or wheel bearing failure?

Its parked right now until further notice.

To get it to the mechanic is a 2 mile drive.

 

[supermechanic]

First determine the nature of the wet spot, is it brake fluid or gear oil.
If gear oil, new boot is needed at steering knuckle.
If brake fluid, at the least, a new set of cups is needed in that brake cylinder.
Boot is easier , brake cylinder requires disassembly of that side, of the front axel, a big job if you don't have much in the way of tools.
I wouldn't sweat the two miles to the truck shop.

 

[Scrounger]

As already posted the first thing to do is to determine what is leaking. If it is a leaking wheel cylinder you would see low fluid in the master cylinder. If the boot is torn grease would leak out on the tire. If the inner axle seal is leaking gear oil from the differential that could be what is leaking. A quick way to know if the inner axle seal is leaking is to remove one of the bottom bolts that hold the knuckle/ boot shield in place. If the inner axle seal is leaking, gear oil will probably pour out, you will know from the sulfur smell.
Replacing the inner axle seal(s) are not a difficult job just messy. A couple of the tools that are useful are a wheel jack to be able to remove the wheel with the drum still attached so that one doesn’t have to man handle the brake drum. It is way too easy to cut the inner wheel bearing seal when reinstalling the drum when doing it by hand. A seal puller that works like a slide hammer, this is the one I use.
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?item_ID=303&group_ID=1235
There are a couple of posts on replacing the axle seals complete with pictures. Most of what is needed to do the job is in most reasonably equipped tool boxes.
As long as it isn’t low on brake fluid a two mile drive won’t hurt it.

 

[Hkx3]

Thats cool. I guess now out to the shop to start the 'CSI truck hub'. I wish one of you guys was closer to me, Id drive over, bring some suds, and work on this thing. Or better yet, I could invite you, then use my shop(s). Im just always hesitant to start these jobs. SO far this truck has treated me so well, it deserves to be kept up. Im confident with the maintenance, just not the repairs due to the size of stuff...

 

[Boatcarpenter]

Hkx3,
I'm not quite as strong as I was 45 or so years ago so I let science do the work for me. I've tackled the heavy stuff, and with a good selection of cheater pipes, blocking and levers, various kinds of jacks and a lot of creative thinking you can get it done. Maybe not real fast, but you'll . You might have to pick up a few new tools along the way, but hey, nothing wrong with that.
I say go for it and good luck,
BC

 

[maxim]

Try this:
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/module...hpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=8927&highlight=service