WTS light comes on when engine revs

[beetleswamp]

I'm gonna start calling it the WTF light here pretty soon.

Also Gen 2 light is coming on when the key is in the ignition before cranking but remains off after that.

Just did two new head gaskets so I may have put something back wrong. Checked the alternator wires like 20x. Fuses and fusable links look good. Gonna check and see if batteries are charging.

 

[beetleswamp]

Oh yeah the fast idle seems to be intermittent as well.

 

[beetleswamp]

Just figured out how to use the multimeter. Pretty cool little device, but it def helps if you take the little caps off the test leads.

After sitting cool for a bit the system resets and I can hear the glow plugs cycle/operate normal, and the voltometer is dipping into the yellow and the alternators read 25 and 12.5 at the pos leads.

As soon as I step on the gas the WTS light comes on, the volto goes into the green, and the alternators read 28 and 14.

Pulling the glow plug card doesn't seem to make a difference, but I'm going to test that and the gp relay next and report back.

 

[beetleswamp]

Oh yes I also changed over to Wellman plugs after pulling the heads. There were crusty old AC's in it before.

 

[m4A1]

Are you talking about the "water-in-system" light next to the "wait" light? A pic would help.

 

[m4A1]

Make that "water-in-fuel" light.

 

[beetleswamp]

Wait to start.

 

[beetleswamp]

Just curious if this is one of the 'bad' glow plug relays. I think I gotta replace it anyway since it's reading only 4 ohms between the pink/black and light blue wires. Supposed to be 6-10.

Wow it's dirty in there. Glad I replaced those exhaust pipe gaskets.

 

[m4A1]

The "wait to start" light is controlled by the glow plug controller card under the dash and that relay does look like the unreliable ones.

 

[nk14zp]

pinched wire?Bad ground?

 

[beetleswamp]

Took the alts out and had them tested at Checkers yesterday and Gen1 failed. Possibly because the test leads for the exciter plug were kinda crappy and didn't fit in all the way, but they were the only place that would let me pull out my wrenches in the parking lot cause the staff there aren't paid enough to care.

Talked to the rebuild place and they said it's gonna be $130 for the 27SI. Ouch. I know stuff is more expensive here but c'mon!

Other than that i pulled the GP card and am manually jumping the plugs. The fast idle at startup is not working now though and the Gen2 light is constantly on (gen1 is flickering and gets weaker off when I step on the gas).

This is turning into a blog but maybe someone will find it helpful one day.

 

[motormayhem]

Took the alts out and had them tested at Checkers yesterday and Gen1 failed. Possibly because the test leads for the exciter plug were kinda crappy and didn't fit in all the way, but they were the only place that would let me pull out my wrenches in the parking lot cause the staff there aren't paid enough to care.

Talked to the rebuild place and they said it's gonna be $130 for the 27SI. Ouch. I know stuff is more expensive here but c'mon!

Other than that i pulled the GP card and am manually jumping the plugs. The fast idle at startup is not working now though and the Gen2 light is constantly on (gen1 is flickering and gets weaker off when I step on the gas).

This is turning into a blog but maybe someone will find it helpful one day.

Electrical problems are fun! Hopefully you figure it out. Sounds like you got some wires crossed. My gen2 light comes on dimly when the engine is idling, but both alts are putting out so it is just a minor problem. Don't go by what those lights say check everything with a multimeter.

 

[Wolf.Dose]

Wait to glow problems are normal after some 120000 miles. The livetime of the Ggow controler card is over. Must be replaced.
Glowing problems also might be related to a defect temp sensor on the rear left end right side of the left cylinder head. This sensor is directly connected to the controler.
Water in fuel means to drain the fuel filter at the bottom while engine is running to press the water out. Sometimes the srew with usually an attached hose, is rotten in. So need pliers help. But carefull, it is plastic!
Gen 2 control likes to dimm with a voltage difference of only 3 Volts, most of the time even less. The generators usually put out even at idle 13,5 to 14 Volts. If one generator, ex. Gen 2 is only at 12 to 12.5 Volts, the control will visably dimm at lower light levels for the contols bulps are only 1.2 Watt. So excitation voltage is to low. Might be related to a bad contact, most the time in the harness connector in the dash.
A harness diagram is very helpfull for locating falts.
A falty diode between plus and minus on the connector rails on th dash also easyly kills your generators.
Hope that helps!
Wolf

 

[beetleswamp]

Thanks guys! Really appreciate the advice cause I was never a big fan of electrical stuff and as a result not sure where to start. Will go down the list tonight and post up what I find.

 

[beetleswamp]

Ignored the lights for a while and finally truck wouldn't start. Took both batts and alts to get tested and one alt was def bad. Took it to the repair shop where the quoted me over the phone and when I came up to the counter the guy was like 'oh that's from a CUCV...we charge $265 for those cause they're really rare and special'.

Told him that I was already quoted $130 over the phone and turned around to leave but he said he would 'do it' for that price if I remember to send some business his way, and he just wouldn't polish the case. Whatever.

Pick the thing up and notice that the pos and ground studs are the same. I ask him about it and he said they are 'rare and you're fine with those'. Got home and cracked it open. Same worn down brushes, same dirty stator/rotor. All they did was replace the needle bearings on one side and the rectifier. Called them up to ask WTF and they said it's a 'repair' and not a rebuild. Bait and switch. Gonna go down there and demand some new brushes and capacitor and report them to the BBB and every other web site I can.

Don't use Central Pacific Builders (aka Starters and Alternators/ASAP Rebuilders) in Honolulu. Total ripoff. To my new friend Mike: the fact that you thump a Bible ain't gonna stave off your molten shower for bearing false witness.

 

[HardCorps79]

To my new friend Mike: the fact that you thump a Bible ain't gonna stave off your molten shower for bearing false witness.

I'm pretty devout. I am enraged when businesses display a little christian fish and then try to rip you off.

On the other hand my mechanic for the last 10 years (before I moved) does his work for others as a "gift". Call any place in town for a quote and he does it for half the price and gets it right the first time.

I think I'll just go with OD Iron when the time comes for Alt/Starter replacement, now.

 

[beetleswamp]

Thanks for the OD Iron link. Wish I'd known about that place before. $165 and no core? Even with the shipping that's a great deal.